Chris.ac

I think they mean the actual stamped number of the engine block itself?

no, i think its true of the 10 and 20 series, that the 'sidelights' or running lights illuminate in both the door panel lens and the chassis mounted lens, the brake only illuminates in the chassis mounted lens. So what can be done, is to convert the door mounted lens to a dual filament, so it acts like a normal running light, and uses both filaments for the fog function. (usually the dual filaments are something like 5w for running lights and 21w when you hit the brakes or use as fog) So in this case, you'd need to run an extension wire through the rubber boot to the door, and you can wire a relay in there too, so you only get a live feed to the 'fog' when the sidelight is illuminated

goto about 1.30 in that video - its for 3L MZ, the whole vid is useful

YEah, I think that code is right, its what is used in CutToTheChase youtube vid, and he has a MZ.

Devon, but lived in everywhere between SE5 to SE18 in the decades I was in SE London!

rules recently changed, so what was ok last year may now not be!!, should be an amnesty really except in those extreme cases wher people are using comic sans or italics.

I put this post up last night: I am talking with another owner to find out the 'all in' price to buy one of these from Japan. It will use the existing stalk and allows you to change from OEM to the new controller, includes throttle response computer too, which will be great for my heavy boots in my 3.5L, I still get surprised when it takes off!

works fine on a 2010 i think there is a config string you can type to get it to communicate with earlier cars - on this forum somewhere edit: does this help:

works fine on a 2010 i think there is a config string you can type to get it to communicate with earlier cars - on this forum somewhere

https://pivotjp.com/product/3da/3da-t.html (open link in chrome and it will auto translate to english) I see this device, can be purchased for about £150. From what I understand from the manuals, this device sits between the regular cruise control and the ecu, it can use the existing control stalk to control it, and allows you to set the cruise control up to 86mph. It also incorporates a throttle response controller to set how 'eco' or 'sporty' your throttle is under foot. Its quite expensive, but if people are looking for a way to partially unlock the cruise control speed limiter (68mph - 118kph as standard) AND add a means to tune their throttle response, this may be a good compromise, rather than going the hacked ecu route! Anyone have any thoughts or experience? this is a toyota specific model, which means plug and play, I can see wiring harnesses listed for 10 and 20 series vehicles.

seen these on the jp amazon = https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/dp/B07XYXYVY5/?coliid=I1L5BQ7HXQ7CTP&colid=3OS9OQE5BW9VI&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

damn - 7700 yen, thats under £50 at moment: https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Toyota-Genuine-Headlamp-Switch-84140-42080/dp/B01LZTJHLL/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1YHGIVZC0OKMT&keywords=84140-42080&qid=1648724870&sprefix=84140-42080%2Caps%2C245&sr=8-1

I found a link to a malaysian site that sells copies of this digital manual, or course its not in english, but yes, the wiring diagrams at least are decent and only a minor frustration to use google image translate or similar on a phone, to use.

Nice! I hadnt thought to do that, saved yourself a tenner! This is a good tip - I will create a JP account later! I have now fitted both sides, looks good. The bumper removal is way less scary that I thought it was going to be, installing either side does not require you to totally remove bumper either. I have ordered some new panel trim clips, because I butchered a few taking them out ( and the dealer had obviously broken 2 as cable ties had been used at the rear GRRRRRRR) Is it possible to find an importer that actually corrects things like this out of pride?

2007 is facelift model gen 1 (or 10series) part number for switch is 84632-34011 You can find these for under £15 on ebay, its a generic switch used on many toyota models, if you want a new blanking plate that it pokes through, just widen your search term to include alphard, or you can just cut a hole in the blanking plate yourself if not too bothered, the part number for the cover (again its common to several toyota) is 45186-58020-C0

not sure if feasible, but if you cover the leds, it cannot fail, so a chrome cover or some vinyl wrap, temporarily fitted whilst you source a replacement led unit?

Every vid I have seen of the facelift 10 series, only ever mentions adding the stalk. If it was the microwave radar cruise control, then yes, you need the extra emitter and ecu. If you look at the parts list for pre april 2005 alphards (pre facelift) - you will see that the control mechanism is based on mechanical connections to the throttle. Post april 2005, the throttle is fully electric, so the additional control mechanisms are not required, the stalk literally just sends a signal to the ecu to hold throttle position and adjust to maintain wheel speed. If you wanted to have the auto speed adjust based on distance from vehicle in front, that will require more electronics.

From what I do understand, facelift model gen1 onwards have the wiring and ability to upgrade by just fitting the control stalk - seems like a silly way for toyota to charge more as an option, if everything exists in the ecu already! I think if you have a pre facelift, you need an aftermarket kit as the throttle control is different, I may be wrong, so hopefully some other owners can confirm. short vid - it really is this easy.

No, not me - I had cruise control from factory.

Wiring for the lights can be found here: http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339i0307000018_base.html Its in japanese, so you will need to print out and hold your phone up and use google translate or something, but you at least have the colours and routing information, socket designations, fuses, relays etc.

I found that after removing my head unit from dash, and refitting, the problem disappeared, too. So I think just years and years of vibration and flexing eventually moved something mechanically - removing and refitting made everything 'square' again.

i found my cds were just catching the top lip of the slot on ejection, just get your nail in there and help it clear the slot, if that is the issue (tries to eject and then pulls disc back in)

Its in Japanese, and to be honest, I have no vested interest as I own a 20series, but you may be able to find what you are looking for, it has wiring diagrams, use chrome translate and phone image translator to navigate

Closest I ever found for 10 series was posted here:

Image of the rear fog lamp connector - it is right next to the rear drivers side sonar sensor. Image of fog light at night on, and off (with camera light)