dezufo

The multi pin plug behind the bumper is most likely for the optional parking sensors that would be fitted in the centre region of the bumper, the other 2wire plug= no idea. The vehicles have a standard wiring loom fitted and then the options can be connected easily. There is an AFS sensor and operating rod behind the offside rear wheel, the sensor can get moisture/dirt in it . The parking brake pedal has a switch, part number = 84550-30080, see link https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/alphard/1-van-3-right-h10-2005-r-3124/electrics-4/switch-relay-computer-337

You do have a front camera, it is a split lens that gives a view to the left and right at the same time for use at "blind" junctions, not very good quality and the oem cameras are 6volt. I changed both cameras on my 2003 V6, the front requires a bit of modifying of the grille to fit but it gives a good view when parking www.amazon.co.uk/Dynavsal-Camera-Parking-Highlander-Corolla/dp/B07518B3DP The rear is fully adjustable and mounted on a small angle bracket and fitted in the same place as the original then connected to a wifi transmitter behind the tailgate trim and the receiver is in the centre console just below the head unit www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07T3C7VHB/ the reason for the wifi unit was because I had trouble locating the correct wires for the camera at the head unit. With the theatre sound there is an amp under the passenger or drivers seat that powers the speakers, depending on the model it could have upto 18 speakers. The front camera button on my steering wheel does not switch it on/off as the replacement Pioneer head unit has that facility plus I fitted a 3 position switch to control either camera and the dipping of the near side exterior mirror when reversing

Yours will be 35w D2S, replace both of them as the other one is likely to go , if the lamps are lighting up then it won't be the ballast, it's very rare for the ballast to go, just make sure the headlights have been off for at least 15mins to allow the lamps to cool down and the ballast to discharge

Outer trims, LH; https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/6816258011 RH; https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/6816158011

Those are the trims on the inside of the windows

I have 17" x 6.5" with 215/65 tyres and have approx 12mm clearance on the wheel well, sounds like your off set is wrong, you can check clearances , speedo error in the link https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

Just get a stainless steel back box from Longlife or Powerflo for half the price of a standard box

Cold weather reduces the battery output, I see you have a 2.4L, if the battery is the oem of 45Ah then it will need changing as they lose charge stood around at the auction/on the boat, once it drops to 10.5v the cells get damaged beyond recovery, the 005L size battery that is fitted to the 3.0L will fit your battery tray but an angle bracket needs trimming off the restraining strap and you need the normal size post clamps, you can get an 005L 70Ah on ebay, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255717624099

The problem with remote starters is that insurance companies will not pay out if the vehicle is nicked after you have very kindly made it easier for it to be stolen

It all depends on what you want the headunit to do, personally I went for a Pioneer AVIC unit as it is a quality brand

NewAcre are one of the few importers that supply an auction report etc, with out being asked

The original unit, all in japanese, has very limited use here in the uk as the FM works on a different range of frequencies in Japan, the satnav will not work as they use different sats + the map is on a disc under the passenger seat, the cd player and the dvd may work but that will depend on the zone embedded in the disc, japanese tv works on ntsc but the uk works on pal so that would require an adapter. The headunit that is being offered is a good make and easy to use as it will all be in english plus they will be fitting a new reversing camera, the spec of the vehicle doesn't mention the front camera but I would expect that to be a new camera as well, all in all the Pioneer unit is well worth it, and the vehicle is top of the range.

This is the tool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394133949886 I got my bushes from here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175987416531 some people drop the whole axle others drop one side at a time. I decided to get my local garage to do them because they can get rusted in = 3hrs labour, its easier to do when up on a 4 poster rather than axle stands/jacks on the drive, if you look on youtube there are vids on how to remove/refit the bushes

It does not have LPG, the sticker is for the gas bottle that would fit in the cupboard under the hob, The blue container is the freshwater tank it has a 12v pump for the tap. The middle row seat do swivel in that model/year, New Acre fit an electronic chip to convert the speed/odometr signals to mph/miles they issue paper work stating the original km reading before the chip is fitted, They also issue an auction sheet and afaik a CarVX report

If you are getting a pop top then the sun/moon roofs are just a waste of money. I notice that Torqu2u picked up on 7 sensors in the back bumper, they only come with 5 sensors so 2 of them have been retro fitted and not very well as they are larger than oem and the bumper looks dimpled. The mot says "front oil leak" but does not mention if it's on the engine, transmission cooler/pipes/, or power steering. The site gives no info on what the "huge specification" is. The speedo is still in kmh so that will involve paying for either a converter chip or a replacement mph dial if you want to make it easy to stick to uk speed limits. As it's a 3.0l the cam belt will need replacing if only due to its age rather than the kilometers traveled. There is no obvious rear fog light, although it could have the ones in the bumper, and no fog light switch, a switch or blank is missing on the dash and another blank has had a small led fitted and then removed leaving a hole. If you think it might be worth getting then get the vin number off the dealer and do a CarVX check, cost approx £25, that will give the odometer reading at the auction and also if it has been in an accident, also the auction grade. Another iffy point is the on site mot testing

So fuse 17/10amp in passenger side fuse box

The 3.0L are not known for oil leaks, it could be a perished rocker cover gasket or a leak elsewhere, it would need to be upon a ramp so an inspection of the underneath of the engine could be carried out

There are numerous connectors behind the ac controls one of them may not have been plugged in or even not fitted correctly

I have a very similar problem but on my subaru, the initial overheating was due to a blocked rad, fitted a new rad and stat, all went well for a few months but it overheated again, so checked and found the stat had seized, replaced it, bled the system but it continued to overheat, checked system and found it had exhaust gas in the coolant which indicates a leaking head gasket,the problem was made worse because the temp gauge was faulty so it read as being cooler than it actually was. The stat could have seized or some of that metal sealer could have blocked a waterway, it always pays to fit a new rad rather than try to seal it. When you topped it up did you bleed the air out. If the engine did not seize up then the head can be skimmed and new gasket fitted rather than a replacement engine

That is the going rate for the series 10 Alphards, I pay the same for a 2003

Newacrecars.com based near Evesham

Over heating is usually down to the inverter pump. Did you get any fault codes, if you did look them up on line, You could try an Ancel 700 or similar that has the JOBD protocol

Check the main hose joints, plus there are 2 plastic Tee pieces that join the small coolant hoses to the heater matrix, they are situated on right hand side of the block under the air intake they can leak due to age, replace them with brass ones, make sure the expansion tank does not go lower then the low mark and not more than half full when cold, if you shine a torch against the side of the tank you will be able to see the levels, I also marked the level marks on the tank with a black marker pen. check there is no mayonnaise on the dip stick or oil filler cap

Could be a dirty filter, search for a local lpg fitter have have it serviced and the settings checked

The 2.4L is designed to run on 89 to 95 RON, E5 is just the ethanol content the RON stays the same whether its E5 or E10