dezufo

If you get a headlight restoration kit it has all you need to polish the lens and seal it against uv rays, if you do not seal them you will be polishing them again in 6months. I have used the Ceracote kit which might be available in Canada. I replaced the head unit with a Pioneer Avic-Z620BT, you can get adaptor looms to keep the steering wheel controls, the only other small problem is the front and rear cameras as they are 6volt but adaptors are available in 4pin or 24pin depending on what is behind the oem head unit but I replaced them with 12volt cameras. most of the connectors on the head unit just plug in. link for headlight kit >https://www.amazon.com/CERAKOTE-Ceramic-Headlight-Restoration-Kit/dp/B084RQKLV8

Go to each door and lower the window all the way down and hold the switch for 2 secs then raise the window all the way up and hold switch for 2 secs, they will then work from the drivers door

I think you where the one being presumptuous, I have a preface lift as well, a 2003 MS model and the seats do not have that handle at the front and the other levers are actually on the base of the seat, so yes there are variations

Wrong, there is one lever to release the back so it can be folded forward which then allows the seat to swivel, the other larger lever on the side allows the seat to slide on the rail, there is no handle on the front of the seats in the middle row, the seat only locks into the rail when the back rest is up right

No, when the back is folded forward it raises a pin that usually locks into the rail so that the seats can swivel round to face towards the rear, if the back is folded backwards the pin locks into the rail, you could get some door wedges and use them to prevent the seat from moving

As already said, button to switch the front camera on /off is on the right hand side of the steering wheel

As already said some vehicles only had the nearside powered door, a fog light switch has to be wired into a lighting power circuit not a powered door vircuit

Other people have fitted the rail onto the roof so that when the poptop is down the rail is under the edge of the top, you may have to trim the flat part of the rail to miss the brackets of the poptop, the magnetic rails will not stay put when it gets windy

Some time a go I saw a post about Techstream which is a full diagnostic/programming software but I do not have a link , there are obd tools/software that will work with Techstream see link, but I have not tried it, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354015577366

Awning rails commonly called a C rail are available on ebay/amazon in various lengths they are usually screwed and glued, using Sikaflex, to the roof near to the black in fill strip, to connect an awning you will need a kadar strip to join the two together. Any decent garage should be capable of servicing an Alphard the engines are used in various uk/eu models, the rest is just common sense mechanical know how, the problem with some garages is they can not be bothered to source the parts but you can all ways get the part numbers or the parts for them, oil/filters/plugs/belts/wipers/brake pads/discs/sensors are all available on ebay or Autodoc plus specialist suppliers, body parts are hard to get hold of

Toyota dealers in uk have to pay for access to the diagnostic computer and they will not do that just for 1 Alphard, but if you buy a scanner that has the JOBD protocol it will read any fault codes, Ancel are very good as per > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295325433361

Passenger side fuse box, No.14/10Amp labelled as Panel, switch illumination, air conditioner illumination. If the speedo lights are working then it is more than likely you have not fitted one of the connectors on the back of the headunit

I fitted an active dual type fm/dab, removed the drop down screen in the roof bolted the aerial in place and ran the wires through to the dome light at the front then behind the roof panel and dropped down behind the A pillar trim then across to the headunit, that price seems a bit steep, mine was the one in the link https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Receiver-Amplifier-Extension-Blaupunkt/dp/B07W2X4PZ5

Very unlikely as there is, or at least should be, a pollen filter behind the glove box

It will not be the head unit, it's more than likely the heater/air flow diverter flap motor, the control box has a disc with copper tracks that wear out and then the motor "hunts", the disc can be replaced I think an Avensis or Camry one fits but you will need to check that. the box can be found up behind the dash approx inline with the parking brake pedal

All inverters are power hungry and vary from 85% to 90% efficiency, e.g. 1000w inverter @ 85% will leave just 850w usable power. You can get micro waves that are rated at 750w but it will use 62.5 amps so the leisure battery will be flat beyond recovery with in 1hour. You could use an inverter for a low wattage convector heater but you would need to recharge the leisure battery every day so you would need at least a 120w solar panel and hope that the sun shines enough or run the engine until the battery has recharged. Your best bet would be a leisure battery for lights and phone/laptop power and get a lpg powered heater. Some eople have done that and they usually site the heater under the passenger seat with an underslung lpg tank. https://lpgshop.co.uk/propex-hs2000-digital-thermostat-gas-heater-for-motorhomes/

With reference to the unlocking of the front passenger door, it should unlock from the main lock/unlock switch on the drivers door also all the doors can be programmed to unlock when the ignition is on and the shift is moved into P, the setting procedure is in the owners manual. With regard to the side door have you checked the condition of the drive cable inside the door, or where it runs in the channel under the rear window, the outer covering cracks and splits then jams up the pulleys it could also be the drive motor inside the door. The motor you mentioned is the primary release/final close it does not actually open the door all the way, try putting the original control box back in to see if it will unlock,

Not all models have a powered door on the drivers side, my 2003 MS has no power doors

Seems a bit high for a 2.4L. I paid £338 to DirectLine for my 3.0L, as most of my no claims is on my subaru

I have a lpg conversion as well. I carry a Ranger Stork repair kit and a couple of cans Holts Tyre repair

I replaced the whole light fitting for an led one with out removing the spoiler, once the top screws are removed the whole light fitting can be removed as it is clipped into the spoiler

As has been said it is a safety feature also if the fuel flap is open it stops the passenger side door from opening fully

Undo the 2 screws at the bottom of the right hand side panel, pull out the carpet and use a flat ruler or wire coat hanger plus a torch, if your lucky you will be able to get it, if you have to remove the console again put some tape on the button to stop it falling out

Really? It seems that your knowledge is somewhat biased; to the point of failing to understand what a windout actually is. My view is a glorified sun shade, with a high price tag, that impacts on the mpg and the places a vehicle can access due to the increase in height

A wind out is just a piece of material that is conveniently stored in a tube attached to the vehicle it serves the same purpose as a seperate "sun shade", when wound out it is subject to the vageries of the wind just the same as any other "sun shade", it still needs pole supports at the front end and the built in keder rail can only be used if the awning is stored away. I would rather have a C rail and a seperate "sun shade" thus keeping the original height of an Alphard with out the extra weight, wind resistance and expense of a wind out