AndrewS Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Hi Does anyone have any experience about deactivating the immobiliser? I have had the AA to help me, but they have not been able to help. The scenario: I locked the van with my electronic key fob; I stupidly left the lights on and when I returned the key fob didn't work to unlock (though the light on the fob showed it was not the battery); I opened the van using the manual key; AA turned up and recharged the battery; however, the van would not start nor move out of park to neutral; the little-red-car-with-a-key light is flashing, showing that the immobilser is on; the AA guy had a gadget which showed that the key fob was not sending a signal to the immobiliser; the AA tried and tried, but didn't know how to turn off the immobiliser. The van is now on the back of an AA low loader and is being taken to home. It will have to stay there until either 1) I work out how to deactivate the immobiliser (and Toyota and nobody else seems to be able to tell me); or 2) a get it moved to an auto electrician in 2 weeks when they can next look at it. Anyone any ideas?! Surely it must be pretty easy to repreogramme the key or whatever? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipsyp Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 It's a chip in key system on these, unless some sort of 3rd party alarm/immobiliser has been installed on it. A flat battery shouldn't lead to the key being forgotten, my thoughts are that the problem is one of the following: The induction coil for the immobiliser (that's part of the ignition barrel) has gone up the spout, hence why it's not starting The chip in the key fob is possibly damaged/faulty Or the car has forgotten the key from the flat battery (again highly unlikely) and needs to be resyncronised. Unless you have Toyota Techstream software for windows (the dealer level software) and the appropriate ODB cable, it's a main dealer or car locksmith job I'm afraid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewS Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 Hi Thanks Paul. As far as I am aware, it is a factory immobiliser. Until the car battery went flat I haven't ever had a problem with it, including when the battery also went flat about 6 months ago. That time I didn't have to use the physical key to unlock, which is why I wondered if using the physical key this time might have made a difference. I can't rule it out, but it would seem too much of a coincidence that the induction coil has packed up at the same time as the car battery going flat. I wonder if it might be as simple as the key battery being a bit old, but again a bit of a coincidence if it is this. I will try replacing it and see what happens. Resynchronisation might be the solution. I am pleased you think the flat battery is unlikely to have casued this. My problem is that I can't get anyone to be interested: Toyota say Alphards aren't on their system; and the auto electrics garage won't look at it for 2 weeks becasue they are busy. Any thoughts on whether a locksmith would need to have specific skills to deal with this type of thing? Another possibility might be some form of electrical interference. The van was parked next to the electric railway. who knows, but once it is home, everything might work. On one video there is a suggestion that I insert the key and turn on the ignition for several minutes. Ever heard of that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojie Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 32 minutes ago, pipsyp said: It's a chip in key system on these, unless some sort of 3rd party alarm/immobiliser has been installed on it. A flat battery shouldn't lead to the key being forgotten, my thoughts are that the problem is one of the following: The induction coil for the immobiliser (that's part of the ignition barrel) has gone up the spout, hence why it's not starting The chip in the key fob is possibly damaged/faulty Or the car has forgotten the key from the flat battery (again highly unlikely) and needs to be resyncronised. Unless you have Toyota Techstream software for windows (the dealer level software) and the appropriate ODB cable, it's a main dealer or car locksmith job I'm afraid. A Main Dealer is unlikely to agree to work on the car. Some do, so it is worth checking. Presumably you do not have a spare manual key (just in case the key chip is faulty). An auto electrician is the best bet to start with; a newly programmed or reprogrammed key may do the trick. I have had a flat battery more than once; neither the smart key or manual key were affected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipsyp Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 3 hours ago, AndrewS said: Hi Thanks Paul. As far as I am aware, it is a factory immobiliser. Until the car battery went flat I haven't ever had a problem with it, including when the battery also went flat about 6 months ago. That time I didn't have to use the physical key to unlock, which is why I wondered if using the physical key this time might have made a difference. I can't rule it out, but it would seem too much of a coincidence that the induction coil has packed up at the same time as the car battery going flat. I wonder if it might be as simple as the key battery being a bit old, but again a bit of a coincidence if it is this. I will try replacing it and see what happens. Resynchronisation might be the solution. I am pleased you think the flat battery is unlikely to have casued this. My problem is that I can't get anyone to be interested: Toyota say Alphards aren't on their system; and the auto electrics garage won't look at it for 2 weeks becasue they are busy. Any thoughts on whether a locksmith would need to have specific skills to deal with this type of thing? Another possibility might be some form of electrical interference. The van was parked next to the electric railway. who knows, but once it is home, everything might work. On one video there is a suggestion that I insert the key and turn on the ignition for several minutes. Ever heard of that? Hi Andrew, no problem at all! I came across this chap when I was looking at whether it was possible to code a smart fob to an Alphard. Might be worth a look! Keys can be associated to a Alphard using a particularly key sequence which I call the Toyota funny handshake (lol) but that only works for the RF remote locking stuff, the immobiliser coding is a different kettle of fish https://www.autolockmaster.co.uk/toyota-alphard/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geralt Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 On 2/12/2024 at 1:52 PM, AndrewS said: I wonder if it might be as simple as the key battery being a bit old, but again a bit of a coincidence if it is this. I will try replacing it and see what happens. What did happen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewS Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Hi. Just an update and maybe somebody can help. I have rung round various auto electricians with very little success. Potentially the best advice is: 1) immobiliser light is flashing without key in the ignition; 2) however with the key in the ignition the light goes off - conclusion: the key is speaking to the immobiliser and so it is not an issue with the immobiliser; 3) perhaps the key is not the issue, but the central locking and some other engine cut out (eg the central locking button isn't working and neither is the key fob); 4) perhaps it is is the fuses which have blown relating to to the locking mechanism? Al sounds plausible. I now have to get at the fuse box in the passenger glove box. My manual says: "Consult your Toyota dealer when you need to check or replace fuses in this box"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojie Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 13 minutes ago, AndrewS said: Hi. Just an update and maybe somebody can help. I have rung round various auto electricians with very little success. Potentially the best advice is: 1) immobiliser light is flashing without key in the ignition; 2) however with the key in the ignition the light goes off - conclusion: the key is speaking to the immobiliser and so it is not an issue with the immobiliser; 3) perhaps the key is not the issue, but the central locking and some other engine cut out (eg the central locking button isn't working and neither is the key fob); 4) perhaps it is is the fuses which have blown relating to to the locking mechanism? Al sounds plausible. I now have to get at the fuse box in the passenger glove box. My manual says: "Consult your Toyota dealer when you need to check or replace fuses in this box"! God luck. It is difficult to get to. You will need a mirror. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewS Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Hi Just thought I would update my experience, which might help someone: 1) accessing the fuse box on the passenger side is a nightmare for an amateur like me. However, with a pair of log-nosed pliers, I was able to check the relevant fuse. I am not sure if the difficulties of access were compounded by the additional electrics for the camper conversion. The manual I have says contact your Toyota dealer, so Toyota clearly know there is an issue. 2) I got no help at all from my local Toyota dealer - refused to engage. I suspect it is a bit hit and miss as to whether they can be bothered 3) I found an autoelectrician in Shipley, Luke at Drive in Service Centre on Otley Road. He diagonosed what had gone on in 10 minutes: a) nothing to do with key or immobiliser b) when the AA had recharged my flat battery there had been a usual surge as all of the electrics power up at the same time c) somebody had previously done a repair on the cable from the battery to the small fuse box under the bonnet d) the battery was fine but the surge had shorted the cable and blown one of the fuses - this accounted for why the dashboard lights were lighting up, but otherwise everything electrical was dead. e) I was told that UK Toyota diagnostics equipment can read all Toyota vehicles. Toyota could have made this assessment for me. So, back on the road, no issues, but now very careful to turn off lights (and on auto). There is no warning signal if I leave my lights on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojie Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 3 hours ago, AndrewS said: Hi Just thought I would update my experience, which might help someone: 1) accessing the fuse box on the passenger side is a nightmare for an amateur like me. However, with a pair of log-nosed pliers, I was able to check the relevant fuse. I am not sure if the difficulties of access were compounded by the additional electrics for the camper conversion. The manual I have says contact your Toyota dealer, so Toyota clearly know there is an issue. 2) I got no help at all from my local Toyota dealer - refused to engage. I suspect it is a bit hit and miss as to whether they can be bothered 3) I found an autoelectrician in Shipley, Luke at Drive in Service Centre on Otley Road. He diagonosed what had gone on in 10 minutes: a) nothing to do with key or immobiliser b) when the AA had recharged my flat battery there had been a usual surge as all of the electrics power up at the same time c) somebody had previously done a repair on the cable from the battery to the small fuse box under the bonnet d) the battery was fine but the surge had shorted the cable and blown one of the fuses - this accounted for why the dashboard lights were lighting up, but otherwise everything electrical was dead. e) I was told that UK Toyota diagnostics equipment can read all Toyota vehicles. Toyota could have made this assessment for me. So, back on the road, no issues, but now very careful to turn off lights (and on auto). There is no warning signal if I leave my lights on. Most, but not all. Toyota Dealers will not work on grey imports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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