BigNev

Yep it is pretty difficult make out clearly hey. Give it another try, may get a clearer line if you're lucky! This is the wording from my Subaru handbook, which has a standard automatic transmission and dipstick - 1 - Drive the vehicle several miles to raise the temperature of the transmission fluid up to normal operating temperature; 70 to 80degress C is normal (on my Subaru!) 2 - Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake. 3 - First shift the selector lever in each position. Then shift it in the "P" position, and run the engine at idle speed. 4 - Pull out the dipstick and check the level on the gauge. If it is below the lower level on the "HOT" range, add the recommended automatic transmission fluid up to the upper level. I'll add a picture of the page too! It says although it can be checked cold, Subaru recommend checking when the fluid is at operating temperature. As have every automatic vehicle I've had.

Ah, the test is only valid with the engine running, cold or hot. So that the fluid is circulating through the torque converter, not sat at the bottom of the auto box.

Hi Paul! Yes, indeed, on the levels and limits! On the first cold reading you did, was the engine running? If not that will explain why it's so high!

Hi Gordon! I really can't think why they are concerned about the job, it's not as difficult as it is on the later ones, just standard work, and I am not a professional mechanic! Shame you're a bit too far away, or I'd come and give you a hand to do the job yourself!

Hi Paul! You're absolutely welcome! It is strange the way it's done, bemused me when I first discovered it many moons ago! On the later versions it is indeed far more difficult, involving reading fluid temperatures and an "overflow" fluid height tube in the bottom of the transmission pan, bit of an unnecessary change in my grumpy opinion! But on a traditional one, way better! The COLD level reads between 1 and 2 for min / max, and HOT is between 3 and 4 for min / max again. Yep, I would agree with you that a 20 minute drive, at this time of year and ambient temperature, should have the fluid up to normal working temperature. Cheers, Nev

Hi @Gamith Did you know that the engine has to be running when checking the auto transmission fluid level? Run though all gear positions, slowly, a couple of times, then check the level. The two dip stick marks are minimun and maximum, for hot and cold, same as for engine oil. The accurate one is the hot one. Yes there is that much expansion when it's hot!! Cheers fellas!

Unfortunately not. Ours initially would default on starting to that "lost position" sat nav screen, but after using the wonders of Google translate camera on phones, over the various options screens, to set the phone connection and other stuff, it has stayed on the screen above - if that's where we had it last.

Hi there and welcome on your first post! I see from your profile you have been a reader here for quite a while ! If this is the screen you want, then then bottom row second from right button brings it, and keeps there, on ours.

Wooho, blooming fantastic!!

I'll be keeping my fingers crossed for you mate! Yes I'm with you both, no logic to my reason just old fashioned gut feeling. Turn it over with the crank pully nut a couple of times, maybe spark plugs out if its too tough. Then start it up and get it up to full temperature, with the heater on full heat, whilst checking on coolant levels and for any little weeps. Then drop out that oil into a clean pan so you can check it!

Woh thats seriously heavy money!! I'd do the same as you on that then!!

Are original Toyota ones still available? I'm just wondering about the potential extra cost of them, against the possibly much earlier failure of pattern parts.... But if the heavy duty ones you've ordered for this time are from a good source, I'd certainly hope they'd be up to the task 🤞 or maybe even better than original!

I changed ours when we got it for Apec Red, from my local autofactors. Very happy with the stopping power. Did you have any concerns about yours with that brand? The Apec Blue were the old "Brakefit" subsidiary which were a bit cheaper, but still good stuff, had them on our Subaru Outback 3.0.

Absolutely disgusting! Thank you for the heads up on that company.

The battery condition is where I was heading. If there's enough energy to click the solenoid, but not turn it over, then I too would suspect battery. Unless the solenoid is sticking and the extra oomph of the booster overcomes this - clutching at straws there!! In theory the new one should have been well charged. From personal experience I did not say fully charged. But yes indeed it should have had enough to wind it over at least a little bit.

When it doesn't crank, is there a "clunk" anywhere in the vicinity of the starter motor? As in, is the starter solenoid pulling in but the motor isn't winding it over. Or is it silent? You may need an assistant for that.

If there is no sound, you need a washer motor. it is not a difficult job at all. Wheel off, wheel arch liner screws removed, liner bent out of way, then remove the bottom pump (water will spill out!!) with a twist on the rubber grommet, disconnect the plug and hose, reconnect, and replace, simple!

Marvellous!!

You need to fault code read it, may just be a knock sensor, or more involved. You could try a cheap reader as it will probably get those codes, well worth under a tenner off a well known auction site!

Absolutely superb job you're doing there, especially with the outdoor aspect!!

I would err on a battery too, voltage can be fine, but not the amps. And they're what crank the engine. If it really is that old, it's done blooming well!!!

These may help with it. Is there any chance whatever the key is in could be reducing its signal strength at all?

Ditto the JPNZ Owner manual - VERY useful!

Hi there! Ours was 3 years in the UK with its one previous owner, one owner in Japan, we've had it a mere 4 months, but loving it. We too had Galaxy's, and Grand Voyagers, this is far and above a better car. Parts - so far, 🤞, the very few I've needed (front brakes and rear washer motor) - haven't been a problem for my local autofactors. And the Amayama site is great for bits I wanted (but didn't need!) Cheers! Nev