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I'm a new owner of an 2013 Hybrid and i'm just searching relevant inf and documentation ref my model, so far i have the attached, if anyone else have any other, please share you never know when you need it maintenance-schedule.pdf auto-service-repair-manuals-and-wiring-diagrams-pr.pdf toyota-alphard-vellfire-em2441e-overall-electrical-wiring-diagram.pdf Toyota-ALPHARD-VELLFIRE-EM2441E-Relay-Locations-pdf.pdf Alphard-2-Vellfire-20-2008-2015-fuse-and-relay.pdf CAMSHAFT-VALVE-TOYOTA-ALPHARD-VELLFIRE-HV.pdf ALPHARD-VELLFIRE-Service-sheet.pdf hybrid-vehicle-dismantling-manual-for-ath20.pdf Alphard-20-Manual-pdf.pdf

Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!

One thing I missed when driving my gen 1 Alphard is the indicator lane change 3 flash that is in many newer vehicles these days, and I got so used to using it that when driving my Alphard I often forget and just flick the indicator to change lane and, of course, I get one flash. I'd seen someone was selling an alternative direct replacement flasher relay for upwards of £50 that was modified to give the 3 flash, but that price was too much for me to just avoid holding the indicator down a bit longer. A bit of research turned up a potential alternative for less than £10 on eBay. It didn't specifically mention the lane change function as it seemed to be more aimed at people retro-fitting LED indicator bulbs and messing up the flashing rate, but I had a suspicion so I took a punt and bought it. The original Toyota item and the replacement are shown below. Notice the knob for adjusting the flash rate, and poorly translated "about dodges three times" on the replacement relay. Fitting it was easy enough. Simply pull out the coin drawer thingy just above the bonnet and fuel flap release levers on the driver side of the dash and look in. The relay is fairly obvious. The relay put up a fight and was reluctant to release, but a bit of jiggling and a little bit of leverage from a screwdriver got it out. This photo shows the new one fitted. I turned the hazards on and the flash rate was very fast, but with a quick twiddle of the knob on the relay I had the flash rate back to where it should be. Then the moment of truth - ignition on and flicked the indicator stalk. Three flashes and stop 👍. £10 and 10 minutes work. Bargain! This is the one I bought on eBay, but there appears to be loads of sellers as the original Toyota relay was used on many different models, as you could imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386806258020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xfg_a3ycs9s&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ql8_keC9RJe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hi everyone. I installed android player to my car since 2022. Before this I never bother about the extra function using canbus box because my car didn't come with 18 unit speaker. Last year I make a study about the function of canbus and make some modification. 1) I bought the socket for meter 40pin. This socket connect to canbus box and HU. Original for other car. 2) I change the connection point to 13&14 follow the diagram 3) then I bought canbus Toyota from raise. 4) after that setting the HU You can get information like - parking trajectory - door information - parking radar - outdoor temperature - millage odometer - average consumption

Open a Nationwide Flex plus current account. No need to transfer your existing account, just open it and pay the monthly fee of £12. Included with the account is full personal AA European breakdown cover with no age restriction on the vehicle, and Alphards are well within the size and weight limits. If you open it as a joint account you both get personal AA cover but still just £12 a month. It also has travel insurance and mobile phone insurance as well. If you are planning long stints abroad it might not be suitable. If you get quotes for European breakdown cover you may find it is vastly more expensive than the current account fee. I found I struggled to find a quote at a price I was willing to pay because mine is over 20 years old. If I recall correctly I would have had to pay more to get just 10 days breakdown cover to drive in the Republic of Ireland than the cost of the current account for a year.

I couldn't find a definitive video or explanation on YouTube on how to change the interior light bulbs in the car. Apologies if this has been done to death but I couldn't find an explanation on getting to the bulbs. All the bulbs I found below were 12v8w w5w type bulbs. Sunshade mirror vanity lights. Left edge with a nail file or fine screwdriver to push the clip before pulling out the grey assembly with the bulb. Bulb is facing sideways. Pull out bulb and replace. This seemed to be the only one needing the grey assembly to be pulled out. Central lights between sunshades. Prise off the clear plastic starting from the top. You'll see the silhouette on the edge where the plastic holds onto the plastic. Bulb facing you. Pull out and replace. Light next to 2nd row and third row seats. Prise off the clear light reflector from the top using a fine screwdriver or flat spectacles screwdriver. Bulb faces you. Pull out and replace.

We have the complete list of wiring diagrams for up to the 2008 series Alphard both models. Same wiring on both the hybrid and non hybrid. SRS.pdf Smart Entry and Start System Wireless Door Control lock.pdf Smart Entry and Start System Steering Lock.pdf Smart Entry and Start System push start button.pdf Smart Entry and Start System - Immobiliser.pdf Smart Entry and Start System.pdf Seat Belt Warning.pdf Rear number 1 seat.pdf Front Passengers seat.pdf Drivers Power Seat.pdf Power outlet.pdf Internal Lighting.pdf Illumination.pdf Combination Meter.pdf Backup Light.pdf AC.pdf Door Control Wiring.pdf Parking Assist.pdf sound system.pdf

I just wanted to give a shout out to DYERNOSTICS, near Bodmin. Our head gasket (2.4L, 2007) went a couple of months ago and Dyernostics was one of the only local places happy to look at it. They were extremely knowledgeable about the Alphard and gave us some great advice about general maintenance. The repair came in on budget and on time, they kept us up to date throughout and they even fixed some other little niggles on the way. A nice chap and highly recommended. I will be using them for services from now on. Jobs a good’un.

Could be worth getting a new radiator cap. The coolant is released into the expansion tank as the engine warms up, and is drawn back in when it cools. However, if the cap is not sealing properly when the engine is not fully up to temperature it will spit hot water out until the cap seals.

Genuinely impressed with the main dealer service at Toyota Cambridge today. As someone who owned a Lexus for years, I’ve come to expect a high standard—and honestly, Toyota matched it. Not too surprising given they share the same site and team, but still, credit where it’s due. I booked it in for an interim service, but they went ahead and did the full service at no extra cost (including spark plugs). They also changed the rear diff and transaxle oils, and were upfront about not doing the gearbox oil because it’s a bigger job that needs the sump removed and filters replaced (just like someone mentioned in my earlier post); but told me to pop in during the week when they have more staff and they’d do it for £135! For some reason, my two local garages wanted approx £680 for the job, excluding the diff/axle oils. Toyota charged £430 for everything excluding gearbox oils. Their full service is normally £425, but with the rear oils and other small bits I’ve asked it should’ve been around £600 or so. All in all, very impressed with the dealer—and I’ll definitely be using them again for all my Alphard jobs. I’m more impressed at how cheap the service is in comparison to my previous Volvos and BMWs that would’ve charged me north of £700+ for a full service.

Renewed with Adrian Flux a couple of weeks ago. £40 less than my first year (last year) That was a surprise! Graham

Hi. I have put a couple of posts on here a while ago. I had a towbar fitted which cost about £400 (an Alphard needs something a bit bespoke which my fitter ordered from somewhere in Sheffield). I then bought a secondhand Thule 2 bikerack off ebay. It cost £80. It isn't the tilt type, but works very well, and I just accept I can't open the tailgate without taking the bikes off - I don't need to remove the carrier itself, since it has a foldable frame. The bike rack also doubles as a luggage carrier. Without the bikes on, I can attach a large Fiamma luggage bag which fits a huge amount of stuff. £40 off ebay.

While you wait for someone more knowledgable: >3.5l v6 auto. I have a 2.4 and it's not bad I would say - the V6 seems to be preferred as it makes a nice burble noise and has more power, though it has a timing belt that needs changing every so often (the 2.4 has a chain which doesn't) >8 seats There are 7 and 8 seat options - mine has two fronts, a wide and normal middle and the rear seats taken out - though they can also (apparently) hold three people also. >Middle row can face rewards (I take it you mean rearwards 🙂 ) My 2005 (10 series facelift) version certainly can - I have heard that later ones can't but I don't know which ones I'm afraid - some models have seats like an air-liner which probably can't turn. >Reversing camera I would hazard a guess that they all have these though some head units might have been changed that might not have them connected - my 2005 has two side cameras in the grill but they don't work 😞 >Auto on lights Mine has but your mileage may vary so to speak - and currently I have a dash cover which I need to make a hole in so my car doesn't think its night all the time. >Side blind. A camera in the passenger mirror so you can see the kerb Are these two things? Mine has side blinds in the back and a secondary side-mirror so i can see the kerb - though no side camera. >Dual climate control in the front, rear climate for the rearmost seats Again mine has - there is a separate air-con for the rear above the offside rear wheel >Electric sliding passenger door Mine has the near side powered though others have both - someone recently posted they got a right dash switch and plugged it in to find their offside door was also powered. >Alloy wheels Again that will depend but I think they all might >Twin sunroof I can only speak for mine, which has a manual front sunroof and a larger electric rear sunroof >Privacy glass The glass around the back is darker, though it can be seen through if you really try. >Vellfire or Alphard? Personal choice - the Vellfire is supposed to be more sporty than the alphard but I cant really see the point 🙂 >Based on my Elgrand spec, which versions should I refine my searches to? Can't help much here I'm afraid as so much comes down to what you want and how much you want to spend. if you have UKP 100k sitting around you could probably get a brand new one imported. >What models/years/configs to avoid? They are all as, or more, reliable as you have any right to expect but I don't know of any that are worthy of any sort of an avoid label - sorry. >Is hybrid available on older Vellfires? No idea > Are they all ulez compliant, regardless of being hybrid or not? Some are - I think 2007 inwards - again you will have to await a more knowledgeable >Is the indicator stalk on the left? It's on the right in my Elgrand, they can be swapped if you are suitably skilled/confident (I am neither of these ) Umm - yes I think so. I suspect you can swap them around but I haven't taken a close enough to be sure I'm afraid. > Are the buttons and any on screen menus in English? Elgrand buttons have some in English and some in Japanese! The on screen menus can be changed on newer models with a magic box from some guys in Russia. Unfortunately, mine is too old for this. The original head units are in Japanese and offer all the functions but most people, for their own sanity, have changed them for EU versions that may not be able to do everything and usually have to play around with various adaptors to get them to work. >Do the radio's support Apple CarPlay? If it's a modern head unit then quite likely - I doubt the original japanese versions are. >Does the speedo also indicate mph? The Elgrand was kph and I had a new panel fitted. The odometer is digital and fixed at kph. Most have been converted to MPH but I have fitted a separate GPS HUD which can show both in my line of view, which I find preferable anyway. >Are most of the commonly used parts readily available? To some extent - certainly service items aren't too much of an issue at all - but things like replacement windscreens would be more of a tricky proposition, though someone was talking about their insurance company being able to source the correct windscreen without too much of an issue. >Any recommended dealers that would be open to part exchange? I live in Surrey and happy to travel for the right car. I bought my Ellie from West Yorkshire. I will let some one in surrey pick up on that one - I am in Stevenage and I don't know of any specialists in my area. >Has anyone used an importer and achieved a happy outcome? Others can answer this - we got ours from a company that was using them as campers. >I'm easily distracted by shiny things and would welcome your thoughts if this, constitutes good value? Well it's certainly shiny. If that is your budget then look around and see if there is anything that is shinier 🙂 >Is the criteria of newest model and lowest mileage the most appropriate? Or are high mileage examples likely to run and run? I can't (and won't) say for sure but generally speaking it's a good rule of thumb. Just bear in mind a well-maintained one that has been used as a taxi every day will be better than a zero miles one that has been kept in an open field for 15 years. >Do some models have twin electric sliding doors? See above >Do some models have a powered tailgate? Indeed some do - but not many. However you can get kits from the likes of aliexpress that can be fitted. I would post a link but I have been typing for a while and my wife want us to watch the TV now.

Did some research. Toyotas OEM Wipers for the alphards used blades provided by nippons blade division called NWB (nippon wiper blades) For the 10 series, the fronts are 26"(650mm) and 16"(400mm), with rear being 16"(400mm) For the 20 series, the rear is the same, but the fronts are 30"(750mm)and 14"(350mm) NWB blades are coded D** (** is the 1st 2 digits of the size in mm, E.g. D75 = 750mm) and the rear is GRB40 The 'D' is their design range that use graphite coated rubber. You can buy their HDA or HDB range (the frames are identical, but the rubber blade is coated in varying qualities of water repellant material that coats the glass (better performance with frost/snow)) You CAN buy just the rubber inserts (check that your existing blades are the nippons ones, they should have a metal clip/rail that needs to be removed and reused - the rubbers do not come with this metal part) I bought a set from amazon.co.jp (you can create an account in English) Search term for 10 series is NWB D65 D40 GRB40 Search term for 20 series is NWB D75 D35 GRB40 You can also buy DENSO, which is a decent OEM used by Toyota. Their largest blade, unfortunately, is only 700mm(28") so if you have a 20 series, you will have slightly less coverage on drivers side. DENSO codes are DU-070R (28") or DUR-065R (26") driver side DU-040(16") or DU-35(14") passenger side And DRB-040 rear. For all these wipers, the passenger and rears are about £8 to £12. The drivers side, being much larger is about £22 to £26 These are hook fixings, so any cheapo blade of manufacturers wipers will work if you get the sizes right. The rear blade has a different connector design, so probably best to stick with the NWB or DENSO designs. Opieoils (linked in a previous post) is very competitive of you are buying the denso blades, but you will be limited to a mac size of 28" If you still have the original NWB (Nippon) blades fitted, you can save money by buying the rubbers only, from Toyota, or amazon.co.jp

In case you wondered...... The strange switch is to turn rear fog lights on Of course it is, why did I not know?? It does however cure the problem the garage had of replacement of the fog light bulb, !

Ohh… been on this planet for 37 years and forums still pose a challenge for me. I have a hybrid…it’s the auxiliary coolant pump.. managed to change it today. Had to remove the inverter to get to it but it’s done now. No more coolant leak. I will change the details on my account. Appreciate the reply.

To the top three modules is not so difficult to get access but is one more module underneath and you need to take inverter out of the car completely. My advice take some pictures step by step and it will be much easier to put everything back together, put all screws separately do not mixed up. For me it took one day no rushing. Also check other parts where needed cooling paste.

I’ll add my twopenn’orth… sitting in the sun in Merville-plage in Normandy at “aperitif” time a glass of local, olives, almonds, radishes from the market, smug grin left out of the pic!

Sorry, but we don't provide advice on Alpha Romeos !

Thank you very much for your replies. I've just put the original battery back in having been charging it - it was whilst charging it that I thought I'd killed the car with a different, incorrectly connected battery - and was about to lock up and leave it, probably for a long time, I imagined. Of course, I had one more go first, and on turning the key all the usual lights lit up and it started. I've no idea what's going on. It was completey dead on a good battery earlier. Anyway, I'm just glad it's alive again and will not be so careless again. Thanks again.

Ok, so I cheated and detached the cup support on the replacement and it was a simple click into place job. I didn't fancy having to take the lower dashboard / console apart, at least not today.

I was getting P0171 "system too lean (bank 1)" also and cleaning the MAF didn't help - the error would come back. What fixed it for me was changing the fuel Lambda sensor which, on mine, was a struggle as the previous mechanic had forced the sensor into place and had damaged the thread. An M18 x 1.5 tap and die cleaned up both the thread on the exhaust and the new sensor which I purchased - I would warn to be on the lookout for ones with the correct plug on the end as the cheap ones come with bare wires that need to be housed in the original socket (as the supplied ones don't stand a chance of fitting) and are bound to cause issues. I ended up getting this one: https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/toyota-alphard-anh10-anh15-24-front-fuel-ratio-sensor-34437-p.asp Which is rather expensive but arrived quickly and was a straight plug in. If you haven't located the fuel lambda sensor look at the exhaust manifold cover behind the radiator. I also changed the fuel filter and the air filter - which may have helped but less so that the sensor I would say.

Hello Kathryn you will have no problems sourcing parts for your alphard most toyota dealers dont like imports or dont have the look up system i have the jdm look up system i help lots of members on here with part no.s and point in right direction with links where to buy from your more than welcome to message me anytime you want i will always reply with part no.s and will give you links on where to get your parts from and will be able to save you a lot of money.

Hybrid Battery Repair in Glasgow: https://hybridbatteryrepair.co.uk/contact/ His name is Fraser, and he is excellent. He knows the Alphard hybrid battery system very well. I used him a couple of years ago to replace my cells with upgraded ones. He has a very detailed diagnostic program, and he is very experienced with Alphards specifically. Best of all, I found him to be a very genuine, honest and trustworthy man. I think the quote above of £1750 is probably accurate, as I paid £1600 a couple of years ago. However, he will first run his diagnostics and then let you know his assessment and what your options are. I hope this helps to have an opinion from someone here in Scotland who has used him.

Hi all, Our 2005 AH10 G Facelift, アビー has just had her first set of replacement blades since she came to us. After doing several searches online, we found a company that specialises in identifying blades for non-UK models. In our case we wanted to keep the original front blade design so that アビー maintained her original looks. I can now confirm that the following blades will fit: Front, Bosch Super Plus, SP16 = 16" or 400mm Passenger side. Front, Bosch Super Plus, SP26 = 26" 0r 650mm Drivers side. Rear, Bosch Rear, H409 = 16" or 400mm

you could try a suction cup puller

Do you know what model trim level you have ? AT, AS, etc. Otherwise send your VIN or registration to Picasso (by Private Message if you prefer) and ask him to search for your model number. I don't think, imho, insurance companies are over interested in tyre wheel combinations provided they are close to the OEM, and not the cause of an accident. However wheel offset is important. The offset is normally stamped on the inside of the wheel; convenient, I know. I'll check the handbook for 17 inch wheels, and get back to you.

Great song, but I digress already! Had the new to me experience yesterday of bringing up the low fuel light. I blame the incident on me not having had a decent drive in the old bus due to other issues. Off I went with my £20 voucher for butcher meat from a known good butcher in the wilds of West Stirlingshire. After a few miles I realised tank was rather low but I knew where the only station for miles was so pressed on. Imagine my delight to find it closed for major refurb. I'm 13 miles from my nearest station so a very light footed journey commenced. 10 miles later low fuel light comes on, totally new experience for me in van. So, I make it to station & she takes 61 ltrs, another 1st, but having now found out tank capacity is 70 ltrs I am brimming with knowledge. Not that I’m going to make it a habit but I reckon a 2.4 petrol should give you 40-50 miles after low fuel lamp comes on.

Picked this up on Saturday. 2003 Alphard G. 73,000 KM V6 AWD I love this van.

Day 20 3 hours I'd decided to order a new exhaust manifold as I'd damaged a bolt hole on mine. It arrived today and it was the wrong one. It seems the 2005 2.4 is a different manifold from my 2002 2.4. Mostly the same apart from a slightly different angle where it joins the exhaust and those two bolts are in a slightly different place. So I was forced to repair my own. I filled the hole with weld. Then drilled and tapped a new thread. Actually went quite smoothly. I then had to remove 3 cut off bolts from the heat shield. 2 removed and that will need to do🤣. Installed the manifold Filled with oil Filled with water. Installed battery. I'd planned on turning over with the fuel pump disconnected but I was too lazy to find the fuse. She started on 3 quick key turn. Hunted for about 5 seconds and then purred like a kitten. Let it get to temperature and fans kick in. Kept checking the water. Turned her off and checked all the levels half an hour later. Took her for a spin and she is driving like she hasn't been off the road. I'll add up the hours and my final thoughts in a couple of days🤣

It looks like the HU Ombak has is a Mekede Tech model - probably a DUDU 6 or 7. Mekede also own a software development company so are usually ahead of the game for updates etc. This is the brand I've been looking at as they advertise it covers the original HU functions, so ordered the 10.36 inch model from their UK Amazon store (for less that it cost to buy from AliExpress....) they contacted me and offered a better 11" unit C/W with fascia and real buttons/knobs, but it turned out to be nearly twice the price (@£1079), so will re-order the one for £569 (which is the same size as Ombak's), and order the correct fascia from AliExpress (circa £24). Note: (only) if you have the 18 speaker sound system you will also need a combined MOST and CANBUS adapter which range from £90 to £120 from AliExpress. The DUDU7 models have a USB C port on the back which can feed an external display/touch panel - plan is to feed the roof monitor via this: will see how that goes.

Just a thought, but have you tried cleaning up the inside of the battery terminal clamps, and wherever the battery negative lead connects to the body? They could be oxidized and causing a volt drop when trying to provide cranking current. Putting the starter pack on could bypass where the problem connection is, and hence why you get an instant start.

I have just had my first service at my local garage. We have been with them for several decades and I was interested to hear their opinion on our campervan conversion. I was pleasantly surprised to get the positive reactions I did. The headlamp discolouring is being dealt with with advice from yourselves on this forum and also local advice. I am now aware why the service (oil change in particular} 6k-7k intervals is important. Quote "the sump is small for the engine size Graham, only 4 litres of oil. Change it and the filter every 6k or so" unquote. Thanks for your help here everyone. Kind regards Graham

Absolutely superb job you're doing there, especially with the outdoor aspect!!

kseal can block other parts of the heating system, always best to find where the leak is. If there is plenty of coolant in the rad, and you can see it moving when cold with the cap off, then it could be blocked in the heater matrix. You need to warm it up then check the small hoses, feed/return, that are connected to the matrix near the bulkhead, if they are both warm then the valve is working, and you have flow through the matrix, if not then the valve is not working or blocked. If you have flow through then the other cause could be the air flap control disc is faulty, a known fault, it is situated behind the dash low down, above and to the left of the parking brake, a disc from an Avensis control will fit, but both units need stripping down and the discs swopping

Day 13 - 2 hours So I spent a lot of time waiting for parts. When I was ready to install the head bolts. I realised that the new ones didn't come with washers and I'd thrown away the old😂. Didn't want to risk buying something similar and decided to ask Toyota. It was about £2.50 per washer but £28.99 delivery! I emailed asking them if they could get me a better deal on the delivery but after 3 days I had no reply. So I ordered from Amayama. It took about 3 weeks but only cost £16.90 inc delivery! Great service. I spent the first hour checking that my holes were clear or debris and oil. Then confirming that my holes were deep enough. Gave the head and block a final clean. Fitted the gasket and head. Greased the washer and thread of each bolt with engine oil. Torqued to 30 - 42- 55 - 70. In the order in the images. Final 90 degree turn in the same order. Feel like I'm on the home straight. Time for bed now.

Hi i had the same problem, the garage i yous said it was the drive shafts. I got 2 drive shafts of the internet fitted them no more vibration. I got Drive shafts from J&R trading (UK)Ltd.

@Simbad For future reference, those side panels of the steering wheel are actually really easy to remove when you know how. I struggled to get the first one off and then realised how it should be done. The ideal tool is a thin metal spudger (I use the blunt end to avoid any risk of scratches). There is actually only one clip holding it in place, and it's in the centre of the front edge of each panel (nearest the driver's seat). All you need to do is shove the spudger straight in at that point, then bend it towards the driver's seat slightly so that the clip bends a little bit, just enough for its lip to clear the opening. Here, I made a video.

hi check this link Car Radio For Toyota Vellfire Alphard H20 2008-2014 CarPlay AndroidAuto Automotive multimedia Tesla Style Bluetooth 4G GPS WIFI - AliExpress 34

Creep? It was like an F1 car 😂 I went round the (quiet) block in ‘D’ without touching the accelerator including slight inclines, not shuddering from engine, all very smooth. I'm retired so no rush hour driving, just clear roads where I’m going. I think there are settings to be looked at on yours.

Craig, I had the same problem. It is not a difficult job, although a little fiddly. I got the part from Jap Euro car parts. I can’t remember the part number but it looks like the attached. For fitting I found you tube Rav 5 videos good to show you what to do. The design and layout is the same. Basically - remove from RHS wheel, remove the plastic covering that separates this area from the engine area, and you’ll see the washer fluid tank with the two pumps - one for front, one for rear at the bottom. They are held in with washer so can be pulled off. To check it is the pump and not the fuse. Swap the rear (working) pump and plug it into the front socket. If it works the pump is the problem. If it doesn’t, then you’ll need to look at the electrics. Hope that helps

I think you mean Denis 🙂

Just like to give a big thumbs up to Drive Japan Ltd in Cumbernauld/ Glasgow area. Went to look at a Black 2011 Vellfire and after arriving got to see other stunning condition low mileage and certificated vehicles. No pressure at all from the dealer,left me alone to go in out and through the vehicles he had in stock ,all were in stunning condition and lower than normal mileage Though sorely tempted by the original I fell for another Vellfire that after test driving was coming home with us. So a big thankyou to Carlos and his Mrs for making the viewing a pleasure and the coffee was good too. So if your in the area and looking for a super clean beautifully presented vehicle give Drive Japan a visit,you wont be wasting your time.

Hi all, I’ve recently received my 2012 Alphard and managed to instal the OEM stalk, relay, and fog light for the MOT. I'm grateful for the help I received from the forum members—the information shared here was invaluable. I've begun documenting all the modifications I make to my Alphard, from the day I got it to this latest fog light installation. After a month of research, I'm putting together a video tutorial demonstrating the OEM fog light retrofit (though not in the factory rear location) to make the process easier for others. This video will offer a straightforward, step-by-step guide, saving others the time and effort of extensive research. Here's a short introductory video showing the car's arrival. I imported it myself, saving thousands of pounds in the process. I'll soon be posting a detailed guide outlining the import process and associated costs:

I recently finished installing the stalk, relay, and fog lights on my 2012 Alphard. I'm grateful for the help I received from the forum members—the information shared here was invaluable. I've begun documenting all the modifications I make to my Alphard, from the day I got it to this latest fog light installation. I'm creating a video tutorial demonstrating each step of the OEM fog light retrofit (including the stalk and lamps) to simplify the process for others. This video will provide a single, easy-to-follow guide, saving others the time and effort of extensive research. Here's the first video:

Welcome david its easier and cheaper to replace the rear bushes any garage should beable to do this for you they are easy to source check this link out https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125378262547?itmmeta=01JDSEPA9BWF4EQYHF1FKPWZ93&hash=item1d31207613:g:susAAOSw4D5ahvbe

This is what the Scottish ones say you should do. *If you have received a penalty charge notice (PCN) for driving in a LEZ and you believe that your vehicle is LEZ compliant then the local authority that issued the PCN will conduct a review of the vehicle compliance status with the DVLA as part of the appeals process. To do this, please contact the relevant local authority using the process for appeal described in the PCN. If you have not received a PCN and you think the result from this vehicle checker is incorrect, please email us at lowemissionzonesenquiries@gov.scot including the name and address of the registered keeper along with the vehicle make, model, colour and vehicle registration number (number plate). If the vehicle registration number has changed in the past five years then the result from this vehicle checker may not be correct. If you believe that the result is incorrect for this reason then please email us with the registered keeper and vehicle details as described above. The data accuracy of this service is always improving. We recommend that you re-check the compliance status of your vehicle shortly before you intend to drive in any LEZ.

It was the American version of the 2.4 engine that had a oil usage problem not the jdm import all jdm versions are bullet proof if well serviced regularly I do a oil change on mine every 5000 miles

OK, I have scanned and translated pages 3-172 to 3-182 thats 11 pages as png images each about 1M size. Printing is not a very good way to use the diagrams, best to look on screen so you can easily zoom is as the print size is very small. You can get the pictures at : https://photos.app.goo.gl/ghabZHui6bDmqaAdA I will remove them in a week or so. Good luck David

You don't have to answer those. There is no EU compliant emissions testing, these are not Type approved vehicles. I just gave them supporting documentation for proof of age, being the export Japanese export certificate, and an MOT certificate which was done under the chassis number. Included a cheque for the registration fee and 12 months tax. And 2 weeks later a V5C came though the post! It was amazingly easy to be fair! This is how I filled out my form.... And I sent it with all these docs.... And I got a V5C back like this!