Leaderboard

I'm a new owner of an 2013 Hybrid and i'm just searching relevant inf and documentation ref my model, so far i have the attached, if anyone else have any other, please share you never know when you need it maintenance-schedule.pdf auto-service-repair-manuals-and-wiring-diagrams-pr.pdf toyota-alphard-vellfire-em2441e-overall-electrical-wiring-diagram.pdf Toyota-ALPHARD-VELLFIRE-EM2441E-Relay-Locations-pdf.pdf Alphard-2-Vellfire-20-2008-2015-fuse-and-relay.pdf CAMSHAFT-VALVE-TOYOTA-ALPHARD-VELLFIRE-HV.pdf ALPHARD-VELLFIRE-Service-sheet.pdf hybrid-vehicle-dismantling-manual-for-ath20.pdf Alphard-20-Manual-pdf.pdf

Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!

One thing I missed when driving my gen 1 Alphard is the indicator lane change 3 flash that is in many newer vehicles these days, and I got so used to using it that when driving my Alphard I often forget and just flick the indicator to change lane and, of course, I get one flash. I'd seen someone was selling an alternative direct replacement flasher relay for upwards of £50 that was modified to give the 3 flash, but that price was too much for me to just avoid holding the indicator down a bit longer. A bit of research turned up a potential alternative for less than £10 on eBay. It didn't specifically mention the lane change function as it seemed to be more aimed at people retro-fitting LED indicator bulbs and messing up the flashing rate, but I had a suspicion so I took a punt and bought it. The original Toyota item and the replacement are shown below. Notice the knob for adjusting the flash rate, and poorly translated "about dodges three times" on the replacement relay. Fitting it was easy enough. Simply pull out the coin drawer thingy just above the bonnet and fuel flap release levers on the driver side of the dash and look in. The relay is fairly obvious. The relay put up a fight and was reluctant to release, but a bit of jiggling and a little bit of leverage from a screwdriver got it out. This photo shows the new one fitted. I turned the hazards on and the flash rate was very fast, but with a quick twiddle of the knob on the relay I had the flash rate back to where it should be. Then the moment of truth - ignition on and flicked the indicator stalk. Three flashes and stop 👍. £10 and 10 minutes work. Bargain! This is the one I bought on eBay, but there appears to be loads of sellers as the original Toyota relay was used on many different models, as you could imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386806258020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xfg_a3ycs9s&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ql8_keC9RJe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hi everyone. I installed android player to my car since 2022. Before this I never bother about the extra function using canbus box because my car didn't come with 18 unit speaker. Last year I make a study about the function of canbus and make some modification. 1) I bought the socket for meter 40pin. This socket connect to canbus box and HU. Original for other car. 2) I change the connection point to 13&14 follow the diagram 3) then I bought canbus Toyota from raise. 4) after that setting the HU You can get information like - parking trajectory - door information - parking radar - outdoor temperature - millage odometer - average consumption

Got away this weekend for the first time in myself converted budget 2004 4wd v6 alphie. Spent less than 1500 aud fitting ot out. Flipped the passenger seat, installed a bed at the height of the rear seat side rails (32cm of clearance underneath) which hinges up into a forward or a rearward facing sofa (hooked up to what used to be the grab rails) 200ah lithium, 2k inverter, semi flexible roof solar, microwave, fridge, toilet, induction cooker. Pretty happy so far. Van has 85,000km. Only complaint is the fuel economy. Mine is a 4 speed and I gather the 5-speed Auto would have been more economical. But the whole van including the build has cost me 11k Australian, which is 6500 pounds. The 107 kph cruise control maximum is potentially annoying on the freeway but no freeway between my house and the beach 😊 I have posted previously about rotating the passenger seat without a swivel. I think this is the best way to do it. Because every time I sit in it I think if it was four centimeters higher I wouldn't be able to in either direction. It's so easy to just undo the four 14 millimeter bolts holding in the passenger seat and flip it around. You just need to drill two rivnuts into the seat base to secure the front tabs into what is now the rear of the seat base. Maybe it takes 2 minutes but I think two minutes every time you need to flip the seat might be better than an extra inch and a half of seat height in both directions just for the convenience of a swivel. Hoping this is the first of many weekend getaways in the Alfie 😊

Open a Nationwide Flex plus current account. No need to transfer your existing account, just open it and pay the monthly fee of £12. Included with the account is full personal AA European breakdown cover with no age restriction on the vehicle, and Alphards are well within the size and weight limits. If you open it as a joint account you both get personal AA cover but still just £12 a month. It also has travel insurance and mobile phone insurance as well. If you are planning long stints abroad it might not be suitable. If you get quotes for European breakdown cover you may find it is vastly more expensive than the current account fee. I found I struggled to find a quote at a price I was willing to pay because mine is over 20 years old. If I recall correctly I would have had to pay more to get just 10 days breakdown cover to drive in the Republic of Ireland than the cost of the current account for a year.

I couldn't find a definitive video or explanation on YouTube on how to change the interior light bulbs in the car. Apologies if this has been done to death but I couldn't find an explanation on getting to the bulbs. All the bulbs I found below were 12v8w w5w type bulbs. Sunshade mirror vanity lights. Left edge with a nail file or fine screwdriver to push the clip before pulling out the grey assembly with the bulb. Bulb is facing sideways. Pull out bulb and replace. This seemed to be the only one needing the grey assembly to be pulled out. Central lights between sunshades. Prise off the clear plastic starting from the top. You'll see the silhouette on the edge where the plastic holds onto the plastic. Bulb facing you. Pull out and replace. Light next to 2nd row and third row seats. Prise off the clear light reflector from the top using a fine screwdriver or flat spectacles screwdriver. Bulb faces you. Pull out and replace.

We have the complete list of wiring diagrams for up to the 2008 series Alphard both models. Same wiring on both the hybrid and non hybrid. SRS.pdf Smart Entry and Start System Wireless Door Control lock.pdf Smart Entry and Start System Steering Lock.pdf Smart Entry and Start System push start button.pdf Smart Entry and Start System - Immobiliser.pdf Smart Entry and Start System.pdf Seat Belt Warning.pdf Rear number 1 seat.pdf Front Passengers seat.pdf Drivers Power Seat.pdf Power outlet.pdf Internal Lighting.pdf Illumination.pdf Combination Meter.pdf Backup Light.pdf AC.pdf Door Control Wiring.pdf Parking Assist.pdf sound system.pdf

I just wanted to give a shout out to DYERNOSTICS, near Bodmin. Our head gasket (2.4L, 2007) went a couple of months ago and Dyernostics was one of the only local places happy to look at it. They were extremely knowledgeable about the Alphard and gave us some great advice about general maintenance. The repair came in on budget and on time, they kept us up to date throughout and they even fixed some other little niggles on the way. A nice chap and highly recommended. I will be using them for services from now on. Jobs a good’un.

Could be worth getting a new radiator cap. The coolant is released into the expansion tank as the engine warms up, and is drawn back in when it cools. However, if the cap is not sealing properly when the engine is not fully up to temperature it will spit hot water out until the cap seals.

Genuinely impressed with the main dealer service at Toyota Cambridge today. As someone who owned a Lexus for years, I’ve come to expect a high standard—and honestly, Toyota matched it. Not too surprising given they share the same site and team, but still, credit where it’s due. I booked it in for an interim service, but they went ahead and did the full service at no extra cost (including spark plugs). They also changed the rear diff and transaxle oils, and were upfront about not doing the gearbox oil because it’s a bigger job that needs the sump removed and filters replaced (just like someone mentioned in my earlier post); but told me to pop in during the week when they have more staff and they’d do it for £135! For some reason, my two local garages wanted approx £680 for the job, excluding the diff/axle oils. Toyota charged £430 for everything excluding gearbox oils. Their full service is normally £425, but with the rear oils and other small bits I’ve asked it should’ve been around £600 or so. All in all, very impressed with the dealer—and I’ll definitely be using them again for all my Alphard jobs. I’m more impressed at how cheap the service is in comparison to my previous Volvos and BMWs that would’ve charged me north of £700+ for a full service.

Renewed with Adrian Flux a couple of weeks ago. £40 less than my first year (last year) That was a surprise! Graham

Hi. I have put a couple of posts on here a while ago. I had a towbar fitted which cost about £400 (an Alphard needs something a bit bespoke which my fitter ordered from somewhere in Sheffield). I then bought a secondhand Thule 2 bikerack off ebay. It cost £80. It isn't the tilt type, but works very well, and I just accept I can't open the tailgate without taking the bikes off - I don't need to remove the carrier itself, since it has a foldable frame. The bike rack also doubles as a luggage carrier. Without the bikes on, I can attach a large Fiamma luggage bag which fits a huge amount of stuff. £40 off ebay.

Did some research. Toyotas OEM Wipers for the alphards used blades provided by nippons blade division called NWB (nippon wiper blades) For the 10 series, the fronts are 26"(650mm) and 16"(400mm), with rear being 16"(400mm) For the 20 series, the rear is the same, but the fronts are 30"(750mm)and 14"(350mm) NWB blades are coded D** (** is the 1st 2 digits of the size in mm, E.g. D75 = 750mm) and the rear is GRB40 The 'D' is their design range that use graphite coated rubber. You can buy their HDA or HDB range (the frames are identical, but the rubber blade is coated in varying qualities of water repellant material that coats the glass (better performance with frost/snow)) You CAN buy just the rubber inserts (check that your existing blades are the nippons ones, they should have a metal clip/rail that needs to be removed and reused - the rubbers do not come with this metal part) I bought a set from amazon.co.jp (you can create an account in English) Search term for 10 series is NWB D65 D40 GRB40 Search term for 20 series is NWB D75 D35 GRB40 You can also buy DENSO, which is a decent OEM used by Toyota. Their largest blade, unfortunately, is only 700mm(28") so if you have a 20 series, you will have slightly less coverage on drivers side. DENSO codes are DU-070R (28") or DUR-065R (26") driver side DU-040(16") or DU-35(14") passenger side And DRB-040 rear. For all these wipers, the passenger and rears are about £8 to £12. The drivers side, being much larger is about £22 to £26 These are hook fixings, so any cheapo blade of manufacturers wipers will work if you get the sizes right. The rear blade has a different connector design, so probably best to stick with the NWB or DENSO designs. Opieoils (linked in a previous post) is very competitive of you are buying the denso blades, but you will be limited to a mac size of 28" If you still have the original NWB (Nippon) blades fitted, you can save money by buying the rubbers only, from Toyota, or amazon.co.jp

For any Alphard owners in Glasgow and central Scotland I can highly recommend C and C exhausts. Based at Hillington industrial area ,Campbell is extremely fair cost wise and will tell you honestly the condition of the current exhaust system without trying to sell a complete system if not needed.

hard to believe rac told you it was flywheel problem starter motor engages the flywheel starter motors stick so when he freed the the engine manually he un stuck the starter motor here is the oe no. for the starter motor 2810028051 here is a ebay link less than £90 for a new starter motor https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142543994198?_skw=2810028051&itmmeta=01K9Y8YSWSA3F3RR1ZYNGGNAXB&hash=item213048bd56:g:b1QAAOSwrAtjuAcx&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cJMSmCYzng1IWECYG0qmIKBEDMJpF%2BjoKdF8CWDWLu%2BJyg357U2QGGQibLkyRW0IONl2xzmU7Gs3dg1w15Q7FeeBozaSvjlPZqxBedOzt987OR%2FIBenRjPQSzEwUQ72Agw7rye8nxnbupAsM8kcDYCxy7LHF3A1daLvDM1g8g2XNFewMRCUgLW8QilaP544zqAHYn%2FBObVeu4SGDEk%2ByZirKhpI99kkTF5%2B4FzoBGShg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUMKe-8jPZg if your confident enough be able to change it your self .

Hello mosey the books can be found on eBay or Amazon

In case you wondered...... The strange switch is to turn rear fog lights on Of course it is, why did I not know?? It does however cure the problem the garage had of replacement of the fog light bulb, !

To the top three modules is not so difficult to get access but is one more module underneath and you need to take inverter out of the car completely. My advice take some pictures step by step and it will be much easier to put everything back together, put all screws separately do not mixed up. For me it took one day no rushing. Also check other parts where needed cooling paste.

Sorry, but we don't provide advice on Alpha Romeos !

Info you gave me was top notch guys, sorry not replied earlier. Mechanic fitted and all is now perfect. Thanks again Brian

Thank you very much for your replies. I've just put the original battery back in having been charging it - it was whilst charging it that I thought I'd killed the car with a different, incorrectly connected battery - and was about to lock up and leave it, probably for a long time, I imagined. Of course, I had one more go first, and on turning the key all the usual lights lit up and it started. I've no idea what's going on. It was completey dead on a good battery earlier. Anyway, I'm just glad it's alive again and will not be so careless again. Thanks again.

Hi, new to the forum. I've had multi insurance with LV for years but they would not insure my Alphard. Went with Admiral. £211 fully comp for me and my wife. We live in the North of Scotland, 2004, 2.4.

hello mark sorry you had bad luck if you did not over heat i say you be ok you will need to replace the tank because its under pressure so glueing wont be any good . next question did you buy privatly or from a dealer as it be under warranty they should put right if you want i can get you part no. and point you in right direction to buy replacement pm me your reg no.

Looks like the third from the bottom. I hope this helps.

Hi all. After trying unsuccessfully to find someone to supply and code a replacement fob for my Vellfire I thought I would just do it myself. I bought a used key on eBay and to my surprise the diagnostic tool at my work successfully coded it. I also managed to access all the customised options, so I now have silent electric doors and full window opening / closing on the fobs. It’s amazing how many options etc you can change / customise on these cars. If anyone needs help doing this around Bristol, feel free to drop me a message.

may aswell add the rear handbrake shoes oe no. 4655028020 crosses to herth and buss J3512004 brembo S 83 542 what i will do when i get time is do a spreadsheet of all part no.s and cross reference no.s for all the service parts for each alphard / vellfire this will make it lot easier for all the members and see if there is a way we can add it to the forum .

They are great cars indeed. Perfectly practical, powerful, gracious and expensive on fuel lol. But a 1st class ride was never the cheapest.

You'll need to use Toyota Techstream to do it yourself.

Mine is a 2013 Vellfire Gazoo Sport Edition with 18 speakers. I have also removed the original screen to replace it with android screen. I also linked the purple and brown wires together to get the audio working through the toyota amplifier. Thank you fir the great tip.

Do you know what model trim level you have ? AT, AS, etc. Otherwise send your VIN or registration to Picasso (by Private Message if you prefer) and ask him to search for your model number. I don't think, imho, insurance companies are over interested in tyre wheel combinations provided they are close to the OEM, and not the cause of an accident. However wheel offset is important. The offset is normally stamped on the inside of the wheel; convenient, I know. I'll check the handbook for 17 inch wheels, and get back to you.

I wouldn't panic about it. I've left spark plugs for 5 years on my early cars. As already mentioned. I'd spend the next couple of months putting penetrating oil on it. Hopefully she comes free. Snapping it would be a nightmare. Took me 42 hours to do the head gasket in my driveway🤣.

I agree with smurf. New cap is cheap. If it is not sealing, you are reducing the boiling point and losing coolant. Check by loosely wrapping a clean white cloth around the overflow and cap on the reservoir, then checking for pink/red after a drive. You could also have a hairline crack on the reservoir then expands when hot

looking at your photo this Alphard has not been lowered so its standard suspension lot of owners in uk regret buying lowered Alphard's as we got lots of speed bumps and pot holes on our roads and to put a Alphard back to standard Hight your looking at £1200 British pounds

Day 20 3 hours I'd decided to order a new exhaust manifold as I'd damaged a bolt hole on mine. It arrived today and it was the wrong one. It seems the 2005 2.4 is a different manifold from my 2002 2.4. Mostly the same apart from a slightly different angle where it joins the exhaust and those two bolts are in a slightly different place. So I was forced to repair my own. I filled the hole with weld. Then drilled and tapped a new thread. Actually went quite smoothly. I then had to remove 3 cut off bolts from the heat shield. 2 removed and that will need to do🤣. Installed the manifold Filled with oil Filled with water. Installed battery. I'd planned on turning over with the fuel pump disconnected but I was too lazy to find the fuse. She started on 3 quick key turn. Hunted for about 5 seconds and then purred like a kitten. Let it get to temperature and fans kick in. Kept checking the water. Turned her off and checked all the levels half an hour later. Took her for a spin and she is driving like she hasn't been off the road. I'll add up the hours and my final thoughts in a couple of days🤣

Just a thought, but have you tried cleaning up the inside of the battery terminal clamps, and wherever the battery negative lead connects to the body? They could be oxidized and causing a volt drop when trying to provide cranking current. Putting the starter pack on could bypass where the problem connection is, and hence why you get an instant start.

I have just had my first service at my local garage. We have been with them for several decades and I was interested to hear their opinion on our campervan conversion. I was pleasantly surprised to get the positive reactions I did. The headlamp discolouring is being dealt with with advice from yourselves on this forum and also local advice. I am now aware why the service (oil change in particular} 6k-7k intervals is important. Quote "the sump is small for the engine size Graham, only 4 litres of oil. Change it and the filter every 6k or so" unquote. Thanks for your help here everyone. Kind regards Graham

Depends on what you buy. They usually come with one fuse each and you use the original fuse in the main socket. Obviously you can put whatever fuses you like in but you don't want a higher fuse rating than the original, so pairs of the same or the spur being on a lower rated fuse would be best. When choosing which fuse socket to use you need to find out what it currently powers and / or do a test to find out whether its a permanent feed, comes one with the ignition or is only on when something happens, say headlights being on.

Absolutely superb job you're doing there, especially with the outdoor aspect!!

I have found a simple and cheap way of making my speedo compliant.. For just over £12, I purchased a sheet of self adhesive white stick on numbers[you cut from a sheet] and stick on the outside of the speedo head where the white marks are between the KPH numbers[Make sure you use the correct white marks] There are also stickers to add MPH onto the centre of the speedo face. The seller sends an extra set of numbers in case any mistakes are made. EBAY Number286074653037

Wooowww thanks alot, it's work at mu GGH20.

@Simbad For future reference, those side panels of the steering wheel are actually really easy to remove when you know how. I struggled to get the first one off and then realised how it should be done. The ideal tool is a thin metal spudger (I use the blunt end to avoid any risk of scratches). There is actually only one clip holding it in place, and it's in the centre of the front edge of each panel (nearest the driver's seat). All you need to do is shove the spudger straight in at that point, then bend it towards the driver's seat slightly so that the clip bends a little bit, just enough for its lip to clear the opening. Here, I made a video.

Craig, I had the same problem. It is not a difficult job, although a little fiddly. I got the part from Jap Euro car parts. I can’t remember the part number but it looks like the attached. For fitting I found you tube Rav 5 videos good to show you what to do. The design and layout is the same. Basically - remove from RHS wheel, remove the plastic covering that separates this area from the engine area, and you’ll see the washer fluid tank with the two pumps - one for front, one for rear at the bottom. They are held in with washer so can be pulled off. To check it is the pump and not the fuse. Swap the rear (working) pump and plug it into the front socket. If it works the pump is the problem. If it doesn’t, then you’ll need to look at the electrics. Hope that helps

I think you mean Denis 🙂

Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!

I recently finished installing the stalk, relay, and fog lights on my 2012 Alphard. I'm grateful for the help I received from the forum members—the information shared here was invaluable. I've begun documenting all the modifications I make to my Alphard, from the day I got it to this latest fog light installation. I'm creating a video tutorial demonstrating each step of the OEM fog light retrofit (including the stalk and lamps) to simplify the process for others. This video will provide a single, easy-to-follow guide, saving others the time and effort of extensive research. Here's the first video:

You sir are a a legend. I stumbled upon this thread and if I hadn't I was going to spend up to $8k or even more on trying to fix the problem. I was even close to purchasing an amplifier part # 86280-58090 but couldn't find the specific amp and there was one place in nz that could order it for $4.5k. I'm so greatful for you awesome bunch and I pray that God blesses you all with your hearts needs. Ps I own a 2012 Toyota vellfire 3.5 v6 with the 18 speakers. Thankyou thankyou thankyou thankyou From fiji to the world! Oh io 20250108_181843.mp4

I know this is a bit late but hopefully will help someone in the future. The fob should still be able to start the car without batteries in it. You need to hold the physical fob with Toyota badge side against the ignition button with your foot on the brake as usual. Not the best translation but gets the idea across.

It was the American version of the 2.4 engine that had a oil usage problem not the jdm import all jdm versions are bullet proof if well serviced regularly I do a oil change on mine every 5000 miles

OK, I have scanned and translated pages 3-172 to 3-182 thats 11 pages as png images each about 1M size. Printing is not a very good way to use the diagrams, best to look on screen so you can easily zoom is as the print size is very small. You can get the pictures at : https://photos.app.goo.gl/ghabZHui6bDmqaAdA I will remove them in a week or so. Good luck David