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Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!

One thing I missed when driving my gen 1 Alphard is the indicator lane change 3 flash that is in many newer vehicles these days, and I got so used to using it that when driving my Alphard I often forget and just flick the indicator to change lane and, of course, I get one flash. I'd seen someone was selling an alternative direct replacement flasher relay for upwards of £50 that was modified to give the 3 flash, but that price was too much for me to just avoid holding the indicator down a bit longer. A bit of research turned up a potential alternative for less than £10 on eBay. It didn't specifically mention the lane change function as it seemed to be more aimed at people retro-fitting LED indicator bulbs and messing up the flashing rate, but I had a suspicion so I took a punt and bought it. The original Toyota item and the replacement are shown below. Notice the knob for adjusting the flash rate, and poorly translated "about dodges three times" on the replacement relay. Fitting it was easy enough. Simply pull out the coin drawer thingy just above the bonnet and fuel flap release levers on the driver side of the dash and look in. The relay is fairly obvious. The relay put up a fight and was reluctant to release, but a bit of jiggling and a little bit of leverage from a screwdriver got it out. This photo shows the new one fitted. I turned the hazards on and the flash rate was very fast, but with a quick twiddle of the knob on the relay I had the flash rate back to where it should be. Then the moment of truth - ignition on and flicked the indicator stalk. Three flashes and stop 👍. £10 and 10 minutes work. Bargain! This is the one I bought on eBay, but there appears to be loads of sellers as the original Toyota relay was used on many different models, as you could imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386806258020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xfg_a3ycs9s&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ql8_keC9RJe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

So, here we are safely moved from the wilds of Argyle & Bute to chilled out East Dunbartonshire. 10 mins along the road a garage was found for van MOT, passed with minor comments. Advised a Velfire in the area also frequents said garage, maybe a group will be formed! New gaff a big improvement, excellent dry garaging for bikes & van fettling. Surrounding countryside a bikers joy. Life is good 😎

I just wanted to give a shout out to DYERNOSTICS, near Bodmin. Our head gasket (2.4L, 2007) went a couple of months ago and Dyernostics was one of the only local places happy to look at it. They were extremely knowledgeable about the Alphard and gave us some great advice about general maintenance. The repair came in on budget and on time, they kept us up to date throughout and they even fixed some other little niggles on the way. A nice chap and highly recommended. I will be using them for services from now on. Jobs a good’un.

Hi everyone. I installed android player to my car since 2022. Before this I never bother about the extra function using canbus box because my car didn't come with 18 unit speaker. Last year I make a study about the function of canbus and make some modification. 1) I bought the socket for meter 40pin. This socket connect to canbus box and HU. Original for other car. 2) I change the connection point to 13&14 follow the diagram 3) then I bought canbus Toyota from raise. 4) after that setting the HU You can get information like - parking trajectory - door information - parking radar - outdoor temperature - millage odometer - average consumption

Could be worth getting a new radiator cap. The coolant is released into the expansion tank as the engine warms up, and is drawn back in when it cools. However, if the cap is not sealing properly when the engine is not fully up to temperature it will spit hot water out until the cap seals.

Genuinely impressed with the main dealer service at Toyota Cambridge today. As someone who owned a Lexus for years, I’ve come to expect a high standard—and honestly, Toyota matched it. Not too surprising given they share the same site and team, but still, credit where it’s due. I booked it in for an interim service, but they went ahead and did the full service at no extra cost (including spark plugs). They also changed the rear diff and transaxle oils, and were upfront about not doing the gearbox oil because it’s a bigger job that needs the sump removed and filters replaced (just like someone mentioned in my earlier post); but told me to pop in during the week when they have more staff and they’d do it for £135! For some reason, my two local garages wanted approx £680 for the job, excluding the diff/axle oils. Toyota charged £430 for everything excluding gearbox oils. Their full service is normally £425, but with the rear oils and other small bits I’ve asked it should’ve been around £600 or so. All in all, very impressed with the dealer—and I’ll definitely be using them again for all my Alphard jobs. I’m more impressed at how cheap the service is in comparison to my previous Volvos and BMWs that would’ve charged me north of £700+ for a full service.

Renewed with Adrian Flux a couple of weeks ago. £40 less than my first year (last year) That was a surprise! Graham

Hi. I have put a couple of posts on here a while ago. I had a towbar fitted which cost about £400 (an Alphard needs something a bit bespoke which my fitter ordered from somewhere in Sheffield). I then bought a secondhand Thule 2 bikerack off ebay. It cost £80. It isn't the tilt type, but works very well, and I just accept I can't open the tailgate without taking the bikes off - I don't need to remove the carrier itself, since it has a foldable frame. The bike rack also doubles as a luggage carrier. Without the bikes on, I can attach a large Fiamma luggage bag which fits a huge amount of stuff. £40 off ebay.

While you wait for someone more knowledgable: >3.5l v6 auto. I have a 2.4 and it's not bad I would say - the V6 seems to be preferred as it makes a nice burble noise and has more power, though it has a timing belt that needs changing every so often (the 2.4 has a chain which doesn't) >8 seats There are 7 and 8 seat options - mine has two fronts, a wide and normal middle and the rear seats taken out - though they can also (apparently) hold three people also. >Middle row can face rewards (I take it you mean rearwards 🙂 ) My 2005 (10 series facelift) version certainly can - I have heard that later ones can't but I don't know which ones I'm afraid - some models have seats like an air-liner which probably can't turn. >Reversing camera I would hazard a guess that they all have these though some head units might have been changed that might not have them connected - my 2005 has two side cameras in the grill but they don't work 😞 >Auto on lights Mine has but your mileage may vary so to speak - and currently I have a dash cover which I need to make a hole in so my car doesn't think its night all the time. >Side blind. A camera in the passenger mirror so you can see the kerb Are these two things? Mine has side blinds in the back and a secondary side-mirror so i can see the kerb - though no side camera. >Dual climate control in the front, rear climate for the rearmost seats Again mine has - there is a separate air-con for the rear above the offside rear wheel >Electric sliding passenger door Mine has the near side powered though others have both - someone recently posted they got a right dash switch and plugged it in to find their offside door was also powered. >Alloy wheels Again that will depend but I think they all might >Twin sunroof I can only speak for mine, which has a manual front sunroof and a larger electric rear sunroof >Privacy glass The glass around the back is darker, though it can be seen through if you really try. >Vellfire or Alphard? Personal choice - the Vellfire is supposed to be more sporty than the alphard but I cant really see the point 🙂 >Based on my Elgrand spec, which versions should I refine my searches to? Can't help much here I'm afraid as so much comes down to what you want and how much you want to spend. if you have UKP 100k sitting around you could probably get a brand new one imported. >What models/years/configs to avoid? They are all as, or more, reliable as you have any right to expect but I don't know of any that are worthy of any sort of an avoid label - sorry. >Is hybrid available on older Vellfires? No idea > Are they all ulez compliant, regardless of being hybrid or not? Some are - I think 2007 inwards - again you will have to await a more knowledgeable >Is the indicator stalk on the left? It's on the right in my Elgrand, they can be swapped if you are suitably skilled/confident (I am neither of these ) Umm - yes I think so. I suspect you can swap them around but I haven't taken a close enough to be sure I'm afraid. > Are the buttons and any on screen menus in English? Elgrand buttons have some in English and some in Japanese! The on screen menus can be changed on newer models with a magic box from some guys in Russia. Unfortunately, mine is too old for this. The original head units are in Japanese and offer all the functions but most people, for their own sanity, have changed them for EU versions that may not be able to do everything and usually have to play around with various adaptors to get them to work. >Do the radio's support Apple CarPlay? If it's a modern head unit then quite likely - I doubt the original japanese versions are. >Does the speedo also indicate mph? The Elgrand was kph and I had a new panel fitted. The odometer is digital and fixed at kph. Most have been converted to MPH but I have fitted a separate GPS HUD which can show both in my line of view, which I find preferable anyway. >Are most of the commonly used parts readily available? To some extent - certainly service items aren't too much of an issue at all - but things like replacement windscreens would be more of a tricky proposition, though someone was talking about their insurance company being able to source the correct windscreen without too much of an issue. >Any recommended dealers that would be open to part exchange? I live in Surrey and happy to travel for the right car. I bought my Ellie from West Yorkshire. I will let some one in surrey pick up on that one - I am in Stevenage and I don't know of any specialists in my area. >Has anyone used an importer and achieved a happy outcome? Others can answer this - we got ours from a company that was using them as campers. >I'm easily distracted by shiny things and would welcome your thoughts if this, constitutes good value? Well it's certainly shiny. If that is your budget then look around and see if there is anything that is shinier 🙂 >Is the criteria of newest model and lowest mileage the most appropriate? Or are high mileage examples likely to run and run? I can't (and won't) say for sure but generally speaking it's a good rule of thumb. Just bear in mind a well-maintained one that has been used as a taxi every day will be better than a zero miles one that has been kept in an open field for 15 years. >Do some models have twin electric sliding doors? See above >Do some models have a powered tailgate? Indeed some do - but not many. However you can get kits from the likes of aliexpress that can be fitted. I would post a link but I have been typing for a while and my wife want us to watch the TV now.

Hi Nicol, I had exactly the same problem with my freshly imported hybrid alphard. A yellow exclamation mark in a circle warning light appeared on the dashboard so I took it to a local garage and they were absolutely sure it's the worn break pads that need replacing. After they replaced them for £250 the warning was still there. So I plugged the car into a diagnostic app trhough the OBD2 port (I don't remember the exact error message) and did some googling and everything suggested that the problem is most likely the break capacitorm, which is exactly in the place behind the little grill which @smurf posted. I found a used one on Ebay for about £20 so it was not much of a risk if it wasn't it. And it did the trick! After replacing it, the warning light disappeared and it never came up again. The only problem was that the place where it is mounted is a bit awkward to access. Good luck with it!

I thought I’d let you know about my experience getting a new key reprogrammed – given no auto locksmith wanted to go near my 2008 Vellfire. I only had one key - photo attached. So, here’s what I did and it eventually worked out. I bought a replacement key identifying the internal serial number from this place on Ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/nejapautoparts Make sure you get the correct key and message the seller if not sure! I’m sure other sellers are available. I read quite a bit and found previous forum chats helpful eg - https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/7153-techstream-for-alphard/ and https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/3338-4-button-key-programming/ I then bought the Mini VCI cable and Techstream CD’s from this chap on Ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124808047632 Again, other sellers available but this chap was v helpful when I needed help. Once I got it all delivered, I followed the instructions (NB re-read the item description online and what to do for 64/32 bit PCs). I installed the VCI driver and version 18 of Techstream onto my laptop (from the CD supplied). Read the note/instruction file on the CD as well as the relevant instruction video. You need to get a licence key from the seller once all is uploaded and you start Techstream, add a few details and get the software code – to then email to the seller for him to then send you the new licence key . NB read and watch ALL the instructions and all should make sense. Tips were turn off your anti-virus software (64 bit) and make sure you set Techstream to ‘JAPAN’ when asked where you are located. Also it doesn’t matter what you put in the mandatory boxes for ‘dealer’ etc. How to Check if Windows 10 is 32-bit or 64-bit Press the Start button, then select Settings. Click on System. Go to About and look for the System type field to check your bit version. Then I watched a number of Youtube videos about how to reprogram a new key. I found this one to be the best. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmCN-YDkqwo Make some notes and take them into the car with you. You’ll find the VCI port all the way under the driver’s side dash to the right – a small white port. You’ll need to get to it kneeling outside the car. Make sure on Techstream you choose the aftermarket VCI from the menu at the top and not the default Toyota VCI. Anyway have a go and see what happens. Hopefully you’ll feel as smug as I did. I paid £40 for the spare key and £40 for the software/cable, so £80 in total for reprogrammed spare key. Must be cheaper than a locksmith…. And you now have the software to do a full diagnostic check. Bonus! Hope that helps

Hi guys, thought I would update you on the issues I had with my Alphard. So turns out it was two seized capilers and nothing to do with Speedo sensors. I guess because they went at the same time as chip was replaced, the chaps working on it, it's was easy to think it was electrical, ABS issues . All back on the road, all be it with new speed sensors I didn't need but glad it's fixed. Cheers for everyone's help

Take the rear wheels off the discs have inboard drums with mini shoes inside . Locate the rubber bung on the face of the disc/drum (face the wheel bolts too) . With handbrake off spin wheel so hole is at the bottom . Insert flat blade screwdriver and feel for an adjustable wheel between the handbrake shoes. Spin it until the wheel locks on then back off until it spins with a little drag .

The side doors have a soft close motor, regardless of whether they are power doors or manual only, so this might be the sound you are hearing? Basically, it is so you don't have to slam the doors to get them to close, you just gently pull them shut and the motor pulls it tight. There is also the same on the boot lid. As regards the engine rust, the vehicle is nearly 20 years and will have been through many heat cycles and wet weather. A bit of surface rust is to be expected on steel that has been subject to the elements over a long period and is nothing to be concerned about. Likewise, oxidation on on aluminium is no big deal.

Did some research. Toyotas OEM Wipers for the alphards used blades provided by nippons blade division called NWB (nippon wiper blades) For the 10 series, the fronts are 26"(650mm) and 16"(400mm), with rear being 16"(400mm) For the 20 series, the rear is the same, but the fronts are 30"(750mm)and 14"(350mm) NWB blades are coded D** (** is the 1st 2 digits of the size in mm, E.g. D75 = 750mm) and the rear is GRB40 The 'D' is their design range that use graphite coated rubber. You can buy their HDA or HDB range (the frames are identical, but the rubber blade is coated in varying qualities of water repellant material that coats the glass (better performance with frost/snow)) You CAN buy just the rubber inserts (check that your existing blades are the nippons ones, they should have a metal clip/rail that needs to be removed and reused - the rubbers do not come with this metal part) I bought a set from amazon.co.jp (you can create an account in English) Search term for 10 series is NWB D65 D40 GRB40 Search term for 20 series is NWB D75 D35 GRB40 You can also buy DENSO, which is a decent OEM used by Toyota. Their largest blade, unfortunately, is only 700mm(28") so if you have a 20 series, you will have slightly less coverage on drivers side. DENSO codes are DU-070R (28") or DUR-065R (26") driver side DU-040(16") or DU-35(14") passenger side And DRB-040 rear. For all these wipers, the passenger and rears are about £8 to £12. The drivers side, being much larger is about £22 to £26 These are hook fixings, so any cheapo blade of manufacturers wipers will work if you get the sizes right. The rear blade has a different connector design, so probably best to stick with the NWB or DENSO designs. Opieoils (linked in a previous post) is very competitive of you are buying the denso blades, but you will be limited to a mac size of 28" If you still have the original NWB (Nippon) blades fitted, you can save money by buying the rubbers only, from Toyota, or amazon.co.jp

They are great cars indeed. Perfectly practical, powerful, gracious and expensive on fuel lol. But a 1st class ride was never the cheapest.

you could try a suction cup puller

A person in russia has done it by removing the standard trim/bumpers, see pics. You can get lift kits on eBay, but the maximum is 40mm without putting undue strain on the driveshafts.

Picked this up on Saturday. 2003 Alphard G. 73,000 KM V6 AWD I love this van.

Just a thought, but have you tried cleaning up the inside of the battery terminal clamps, and wherever the battery negative lead connects to the body? They could be oxidized and causing a volt drop when trying to provide cranking current. Putting the starter pack on could bypass where the problem connection is, and hence why you get an instant start.

Absolutely superb job you're doing there, especially with the outdoor aspect!!

Day 17 2 Hours Felt like big progress today. I've been dreading using silicon gasket but think it went pretty well. Started the day with a failed attempt to remove the exhaust bracket bolt with my new induction heating tool. Looks like I'll need to weld the bracket back together. I needed to jack the engine up quite high to get the timing chain cover above the power steering pipe. I did a few test runs to make sure I could get the cover onto the engine without ruining the gasket. I installed the water pump first but then removed it as I needed the extra space. It says to install the cover 3 min after applying the sealant. It took a bit of study and preparation to get my head around all the different sealant widths. Cover on and all bolts torqued to spec. Timing chain tensioner and water pump next I think.

kseal can block other parts of the heating system, always best to find where the leak is. If there is plenty of coolant in the rad, and you can see it moving when cold with the cap off, then it could be blocked in the heater matrix. You need to warm it up then check the small hoses, feed/return, that are connected to the matrix near the bulkhead, if they are both warm then the valve is working, and you have flow through the matrix, if not then the valve is not working or blocked. If you have flow through then the other cause could be the air flap control disc is faulty, a known fault, it is situated behind the dash low down, above and to the left of the parking brake, a disc from an Avensis control will fit, but both units need stripping down and the discs swopping

Day 13 - 2 hours So I spent a lot of time waiting for parts. When I was ready to install the head bolts. I realised that the new ones didn't come with washers and I'd thrown away the old😂. Didn't want to risk buying something similar and decided to ask Toyota. It was about £2.50 per washer but £28.99 delivery! I emailed asking them if they could get me a better deal on the delivery but after 3 days I had no reply. So I ordered from Amayama. It took about 3 weeks but only cost £16.90 inc delivery! Great service. I spent the first hour checking that my holes were clear or debris and oil. Then confirming that my holes were deep enough. Gave the head and block a final clean. Fitted the gasket and head. Greased the washer and thread of each bolt with engine oil. Torqued to 30 - 42- 55 - 70. In the order in the images. Final 90 degree turn in the same order. Feel like I'm on the home straight. Time for bed now.

Wooowww thanks alot, it's work at mu GGH20.

Craig, I had the same problem. It is not a difficult job, although a little fiddly. I got the part from Jap Euro car parts. I can’t remember the part number but it looks like the attached. For fitting I found you tube Rav 5 videos good to show you what to do. The design and layout is the same. Basically - remove from RHS wheel, remove the plastic covering that separates this area from the engine area, and you’ll see the washer fluid tank with the two pumps - one for front, one for rear at the bottom. They are held in with washer so can be pulled off. To check it is the pump and not the fuse. Swap the rear (working) pump and plug it into the front socket. If it works the pump is the problem. If it doesn’t, then you’ll need to look at the electrics. Hope that helps

I recently finished installing the stalk, relay, and fog lights on my 2012 Alphard. I'm grateful for the help I received from the forum members—the information shared here was invaluable. I've begun documenting all the modifications I make to my Alphard, from the day I got it to this latest fog light installation. I'm creating a video tutorial demonstrating each step of the OEM fog light retrofit (including the stalk and lamps) to simplify the process for others. This video will provide a single, easy-to-follow guide, saving others the time and effort of extensive research. Here's the first video:

I know this is a bit late but hopefully will help someone in the future. The fob should still be able to start the car without batteries in it. You need to hold the physical fob with Toyota badge side against the ignition button with your foot on the brake as usual. Not the best translation but gets the idea across.

Tq my bro friend..finally my problem solved . Just join purple vs purple and brown vs brown. Tq verry much..Hafiz here from Malaysia 😀😀👍

Welcome david its easier and cheaper to replace the rear bushes any garage should beable to do this for you they are easy to source check this link out https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125378262547?itmmeta=01JDSEPA9BWF4EQYHF1FKPWZ93&hash=item1d31207613:g:susAAOSw4D5ahvbe

Hi, Just collected our 2007 Alphard from having a new complete stainless steel exhaust fitted. An amazing piece of work,my wife and I were invited under the lift to examine the finished job.It may seem unusual to wax lyrical about something that is rarely seen,but as a trained motor engineer and having fitted numerous exhaust systems,this one literally took my breath away.It had been perfectly manufactured and fitted accurately down the underside ,all the various contours fitted to perfection. I elected to have a polished tail pipe and of course the whole length[including a new S/S Cat.] was stainless steel, all the clamps and new brackets were S/S. The sensor boss was also S/S but unfortunately the new sensor I supplied had wiring which was not long enough,so they had fitted the original until I can lengthen the wiring. The cost was £1000 + the usual. Considering the cost of a genuine exhaust at almost double, this is a very good price and should out last the rest of the vehicle. I expect they are able to supply this type of exhaust for Alphards. The exhaust was fitted in Tavistock by the national chain POWERFLOW. There must be one near you somewhere in the UK.

Hi Guys, Sunesh from Malaysia. I just brought my Toyota Alphard MNH10 3.0 V6 Model (NFL) I had join this club to enhance mu knowledge on Alphard. In term of part for Alphard is much easy to get and mostly second hand part fro Japan.

cheers chris just want to thank you i did phone mark richards they quoted me £1100 but i had a nice phone call from gary at mark richards this morning they admitted to making a mistake with my quote and they wanted to double check everything best they could do for me was £766.00 which i paid as i was getting over a £1000 + everywhere else

I ended buying a connector off AliExpress, then wiring as per the below. Pin 1 -> pin 6 Pin 2 -> pin 5 Pin 3 -> pin 4 The sound is working, thank you everyone for the help

I've bought one from eBay and AliExpress, both under £10. I'll pm you the AliExpress link. The link i shared is s common design, but be aware that not all of these clone devices are jobd, the link i used has an older design with dedicated daughter board inside. I cannot vouch for the newer single board designs.

No the screen is wired to the ignition. It turns on when you open it and then shuts off when close it. The only problem I had was my head unit feeds out HDMI but the screen has an RCA. Ended up having to run a USB socket to plug in a convertor Not the greatest picture and the fact I can only mirror the front screen is not great, but it was there doing nothing and people in the back can stop keep asking me how long till we get somewhere lol

Thought I would post this here as I can't be the only one with this problem. The paint has been peeling on my bonnet since I imported the Vellfire a few years back, it started from the stone chips and water got under the paint and lifted more. It was starting to get ugly, I put some small stickers over it to try and stop it, but the peeling grew and grew. Went to see a couple of different bodyshops where I know the guys, they warned me that because of the white pearl paint it is nearly impossible to match and blending in over panels stands out really badly, it would never be a case of just painting the bonnet 😭 So one night a few weeks ago I just peeled all the flaking paint off the whole bonnet and ended up like this:- Sanded the edges of the paint back to make it as smooth as possible then had a few experiments with some white carbon vinyl car wrap, came to the conclusion the hardest bits on the bonnet is where the 3 crease lines meet so tried those bit a couple of times with some off cuts:- Then went for! Got everything clean and layed that puppy down with the help of a mate as a second pair of hands, and seeing as neither of us have ever tried to wrap anything before it went surprisingly well on the first shot 🥳 no defects, bubbles, creases or anything at all! Anyway, hope that gives you a bit of confidence if you are thinking of doing something similar, it wasn't that hard at all, and it looks much tidier now for a rough daily work truck.

It isn't possible to get a regas without a pressure test as it a requirement of how the machines work. The machine removes the gas and oil, puts the system under vacuum, and waits. If it loses vacuum it will not put gas back in. This is to stop the unnecessary release of refrigerants into the atmosphere. If you put the heater temp to max it should drive the flap all the way in one direction. If you then put the temp to LO, it should drive the flap completely in the other direction. If it is doing this, and you still don't get cold air on LO, there is something else going on.

4D67, if you need to buy another blank key. Always wise to have enough 'spare' keys

I know that the accepted wisdom is that fuel tanks contain dirt at the bottom but I've always considered this to be unlikely in a vehicle. The fuel is always drawn from the bottom of the tank, and some of the fuel recirculates back to the tank on some fuel injection systems, so the fuel is not stationary at the bottom. The fuel will also be sloshing about the tank every time the car is driven, so the opportunity for there to be undisturbed settlement is low. If the tank is regularly taken to a low level then once again there is little chance of anything being left behind. Finally, most tanks these days are made of plastic so there is no risk of internal corrosion causing an issue. Just my thoughts on the matter, but I have no actual proof either way. It may have been an issue back in the days of carburettor cars with a one way fuel system and no fuel filter to stop the tiny filter the carb from getting rapidly blocked. Although, I've never actually heard of anybody experiencing their car conking out after running low on fuel, but lack of evidence is not evidence of lack.

Hi, I have made a short video while repairing my 2003 Alphard heater air blend door actuator by replacing the tracked disk within the unit. Hope it helps if you have a noisy or intermittent actuator. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tr0H7cIDzPE

I had the same issue. I shopped around and managed to get it lower but nothing like year before. Things to help Add a partner to the policy as a "Named driver", even if they dont drive it If you have 2 cars in the house then add yourself as a Named Driver to the other car if you have already not. Some co's sell Excess Cover, it's usually cheap, so volunteer a higher excess and then insure the excess, So if in total the excess is 500 then insure the whole amount.. This worked for me, I paid £40 for £500 cover but saved £90 in policy cover) If you do less miles then what you are insuring then lower the amount on the policy. Only insure it for the trade value, not what you bought it for. You will only get book value, never what you want. (consult with ins co. first)

I doubt the ECU learns your driving style, but it will do a forward looking calculation based upon the fuel consumption of the last "X" number of miles and the fuel left in the tank. That is how the range left number can go up as well as down on a journey, especially when the tank is nearer to full or empty as a small change in consumption can calculate out to large change in range at the extremes.

Recently had very yellow plastic headlights. Looked terrible. Put cutting paste on and used an electric polisher. then used a kit called Armorall Headlight Restorer Wipes (under £10 Halfords). The kit chemically removes the yellow. It then has a UV protection wipe to seal it. It is the UV that causes the problem. Leave it that day, it will haze over. Polish out the following day with a car polish.

Sorry, didn't answer all the questions,as far as I know there isn't an Alphard tow bar with a detachable ball hitch,I've had my tow bar for 3years and so far haven't cracked my shins[hope I haven't tempted fate!!].

Old thread I know, but someone may find the information as useful. They aren't OEM Toyota but I have just fitted a set of Bola FLY alloys. They're 18x9" ET38 and in my option fill the arches nicely and I have no rubbing going on even with the vehicle lowered on coilovers. The alloys are also very lightweight at approximately 8.5KG each (lighter than my Enkeis!).

You don't have to answer those. There is no EU compliant emissions testing, these are not Type approved vehicles. I just gave them supporting documentation for proof of age, being the export Japanese export certificate, and an MOT certificate which was done under the chassis number. Included a cheque for the registration fee and 12 months tax. And 2 weeks later a V5C came though the post! It was amazingly easy to be fair! This is how I filled out my form.... And I sent it with all these docs.... And I got a V5C back like this!

This quick reference to service part torques and oil requirements for 20 series is useful to print off and keep in glovebo ALPHARD.pdf