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Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!

I'll start this by saying I'm not a mechanic (I'm actually an accountant). I do have my own lift but would be more of a tinkerer than anything, so my techniques may not be best practice, but it got the job done. One other word of advice is that even though these were not clunking, nor even mentioned on a recent MOT I decided to go ahead and replace now BEFORE corrosion had a chance to take hold. As a result, using the right tools, this job took me, a novice, just over 3 hours. The offending bush: First job after removing wheels and getting the vehicle in the air is to unplug wheel speed sensor in the rear hubs. Loosen & remove 10mm brake unions both sides. There are four in total, however I only needed to remove three. The drivers side handbrake cable routes under a hardline which is bolted to the axle. When you swing the axle down the axle will effectively hang on the brake cable held up by the hardline, so undo this now to stop this from happening. I plugged all lines to stop fluid running everywhere. Unbolt handbrake cables and wheel speed bracketry on rear axle. Remove level sensor on rear axle, passenger side Double check you've nothing else bolted to the axle that would prevent it from swinging down. Next job is to unbolt the bottom bolt of the rear shock. Take the weight off the axle, remove bottom bolts both sides and this will allow the full assembly to rotate down. Caution: It's heavy!! Rotate enough to allow you to remove rear springs. Remove springs and set aside and then raise the axle back up and loosely bolt the shocks back in. At this stage you could, if you wanted, take the handbrake cables off altogether and remove the entire axle. It's unnecessary in my opinion but bushes might be easier removed that way. Next is to remove the bolts for the rear bushes. Once loose both sides the axle will want to fall down so ensure it is supported and lower it gently taking care that you haven't missed any connected pipes / wires / hoses, etc Once it's lowered enough you have access to the bush. I used a Nielsen tool for this job. It wasn't explicitly advertised as fitting an Alphard but turns out the leaflet in the box confirms it'll work. Neilsen CT5516 is the kit you want. Attach tool to bush, clamp and turn the bush out. It's hard work but the tool did the job. Remember to note orientation of original bush! And with some effort the old bush is removed At this point I cleaned the inner surface of the axle with a little steel wool and then applied a smear of corrosion resistant marine grease. Then, using the same tool, press the new bush in And in. Building back up, is, as they say the reversal of disassembly bar the exception of bleeding the brakes. A good chance to renew the fluid. I also ended up replacing discs and pads. I hope this helps someone. It's not a particularly difficult job with the right tools (and a lift). I would feel confident tackling this on the driveway provided I was able to get the vehicle high enough in the air. My axle bush tool will be for sale soon if anyone's looking one. Ideally we could have a group rental set-up but I don't know how to organise that. Craig

So, here we are safely moved from the wilds of Argyle & Bute to chilled out East Dunbartonshire. 10 mins along the road a garage was found for van MOT, passed with minor comments. Advised a Velfire in the area also frequents said garage, maybe a group will be formed! New gaff a big improvement, excellent dry garaging for bikes & van fettling. Surrounding countryside a bikers joy. Life is good 😎

So.....had the misfortune of breaking the passenger mirror glass on the Alphard. Thankfully the mirror housing and folding mechanism itself is fine, just the glass dropped off the plate and wasn't salvageable! Anyway, trying to drive a vehicle the scale of the Alphard without a passenger mirror is no fun so I quickly looked into sorting it. As bad luck would have it (unless I was being daft) whilst there seems to be a proliferation of AH20 glass on the likes of eBay, but not AH10 which was frustrating. I did pop down to Halfords and they didn't have anything either, though their booklet seemed to suggest a part that could be ordered in. That glass it transpires is actually for a later model (2000 to 2006) Previa/Estima, and not for the Alphard specifically. I tried one of these cut to size temp mirrors from Amazon, absolute garbage and regret even trying. Definitely don't use one of those. Off the back of the Previa/Estima thing, I ended up taking a chance on some Previa glass from Amazon, which turned up next day and wasn't a great deal more expensive than the temp solution . Needless to say it's not a perfect fit, but it's the right shape to go into the backplate without any 'oversize' issues and can be mounted so that the loss of mirror area is minimal. So, if you are ever in need of mirror glass, need something temporarily/are happy to live with something that's not perfectly shaped I can confirm the 2000-2006 Previa/Estima glass is usable and a good solution - assuming you still have the mirror backplate (i.e. have only lost the glass!). I've ordered a new genuine replacement from Amayama, at rather extortionate cost, and I guess it will arrive eventually, but there is a temporary/permanent solution there if needed if anyone finds themselves in the same boat. I also learnt something very useful in the process.....transpires my MOT had lapsed somehow over the bank holiday weekend (no reminders unfortunately) so it also needed MOTing, which I thought ironically was just great given the mirror problem. However, transpires (and this is quite a recent change) that as long as the vehicle was first used/registered (whatever) before January 2010, you can pass an MOT without even an advisory with just the drivers and interior rear view mirror, the passenger mirror is still not required (believe it used to be anything after 1976 was covered but not anymore). Therefore, the passenger mirror for us lucky AH10 owners is just for vanity, just make sure you don't break your driver's mirror around MOT time!

One thing I missed when driving my gen 1 Alphard is the indicator lane change 3 flash that is in many newer vehicles these days, and I got so used to using it that when driving my Alphard I often forget and just flick the indicator to change lane and, of course, I get one flash. I'd seen someone was selling an alternative direct replacement flasher relay for upwards of £50 that was modified to give the 3 flash, but that price was too much for me to just avoid holding the indicator down a bit longer. A bit of research turned up a potential alternative for less than £10 on eBay. It didn't specifically mention the lane change function as it seemed to be more aimed at people retro-fitting LED indicator bulbs and messing up the flashing rate, but I had a suspicion so I took a punt and bought it. The original Toyota item and the replacement are shown below. Notice the knob for adjusting the flash rate, and poorly translated "about dodges three times" on the replacement relay. Fitting it was easy enough. Simply pull out the coin drawer thingy just above the bonnet and fuel flap release levers on the driver side of the dash and look in. The relay is fairly obvious. The relay put up a fight and was reluctant to release, but a bit of jiggling and a little bit of leverage from a screwdriver got it out. This photo shows the new one fitted. I turned the hazards on and the flash rate was very fast, but with a quick twiddle of the knob on the relay I had the flash rate back to where it should be. Then the moment of truth - ignition on and flicked the indicator stalk. Three flashes and stop 👍. £10 and 10 minutes work. Bargain! This is the one I bought on eBay, but there appears to be loads of sellers as the original Toyota relay was used on many different models, as you could imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386806258020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xfg_a3ycs9s&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ql8_keC9RJe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Renewed with Adrian Flux a couple of weeks ago. £40 less than my first year (last year) That was a surprise! Graham

Hi. I have put a couple of posts on here a while ago. I had a towbar fitted which cost about £400 (an Alphard needs something a bit bespoke which my fitter ordered from somewhere in Sheffield). I then bought a secondhand Thule 2 bikerack off ebay. It cost £80. It isn't the tilt type, but works very well, and I just accept I can't open the tailgate without taking the bikes off - I don't need to remove the carrier itself, since it has a foldable frame. The bike rack also doubles as a luggage carrier. Without the bikes on, I can attach a large Fiamma luggage bag which fits a huge amount of stuff. £40 off ebay.

While you wait for someone more knowledgable: >3.5l v6 auto. I have a 2.4 and it's not bad I would say - the V6 seems to be preferred as it makes a nice burble noise and has more power, though it has a timing belt that needs changing every so often (the 2.4 has a chain which doesn't) >8 seats There are 7 and 8 seat options - mine has two fronts, a wide and normal middle and the rear seats taken out - though they can also (apparently) hold three people also. >Middle row can face rewards (I take it you mean rearwards 🙂 ) My 2005 (10 series facelift) version certainly can - I have heard that later ones can't but I don't know which ones I'm afraid - some models have seats like an air-liner which probably can't turn. >Reversing camera I would hazard a guess that they all have these though some head units might have been changed that might not have them connected - my 2005 has two side cameras in the grill but they don't work 😞 >Auto on lights Mine has but your mileage may vary so to speak - and currently I have a dash cover which I need to make a hole in so my car doesn't think its night all the time. >Side blind. A camera in the passenger mirror so you can see the kerb Are these two things? Mine has side blinds in the back and a secondary side-mirror so i can see the kerb - though no side camera. >Dual climate control in the front, rear climate for the rearmost seats Again mine has - there is a separate air-con for the rear above the offside rear wheel >Electric sliding passenger door Mine has the near side powered though others have both - someone recently posted they got a right dash switch and plugged it in to find their offside door was also powered. >Alloy wheels Again that will depend but I think they all might >Twin sunroof I can only speak for mine, which has a manual front sunroof and a larger electric rear sunroof >Privacy glass The glass around the back is darker, though it can be seen through if you really try. >Vellfire or Alphard? Personal choice - the Vellfire is supposed to be more sporty than the alphard but I cant really see the point 🙂 >Based on my Elgrand spec, which versions should I refine my searches to? Can't help much here I'm afraid as so much comes down to what you want and how much you want to spend. if you have UKP 100k sitting around you could probably get a brand new one imported. >What models/years/configs to avoid? They are all as, or more, reliable as you have any right to expect but I don't know of any that are worthy of any sort of an avoid label - sorry. >Is hybrid available on older Vellfires? No idea > Are they all ulez compliant, regardless of being hybrid or not? Some are - I think 2007 inwards - again you will have to await a more knowledgeable >Is the indicator stalk on the left? It's on the right in my Elgrand, they can be swapped if you are suitably skilled/confident (I am neither of these ) Umm - yes I think so. I suspect you can swap them around but I haven't taken a close enough to be sure I'm afraid. > Are the buttons and any on screen menus in English? Elgrand buttons have some in English and some in Japanese! The on screen menus can be changed on newer models with a magic box from some guys in Russia. Unfortunately, mine is too old for this. The original head units are in Japanese and offer all the functions but most people, for their own sanity, have changed them for EU versions that may not be able to do everything and usually have to play around with various adaptors to get them to work. >Do the radio's support Apple CarPlay? If it's a modern head unit then quite likely - I doubt the original japanese versions are. >Does the speedo also indicate mph? The Elgrand was kph and I had a new panel fitted. The odometer is digital and fixed at kph. Most have been converted to MPH but I have fitted a separate GPS HUD which can show both in my line of view, which I find preferable anyway. >Are most of the commonly used parts readily available? To some extent - certainly service items aren't too much of an issue at all - but things like replacement windscreens would be more of a tricky proposition, though someone was talking about their insurance company being able to source the correct windscreen without too much of an issue. >Any recommended dealers that would be open to part exchange? I live in Surrey and happy to travel for the right car. I bought my Ellie from West Yorkshire. I will let some one in surrey pick up on that one - I am in Stevenage and I don't know of any specialists in my area. >Has anyone used an importer and achieved a happy outcome? Others can answer this - we got ours from a company that was using them as campers. >I'm easily distracted by shiny things and would welcome your thoughts if this, constitutes good value? Well it's certainly shiny. If that is your budget then look around and see if there is anything that is shinier 🙂 >Is the criteria of newest model and lowest mileage the most appropriate? Or are high mileage examples likely to run and run? I can't (and won't) say for sure but generally speaking it's a good rule of thumb. Just bear in mind a well-maintained one that has been used as a taxi every day will be better than a zero miles one that has been kept in an open field for 15 years. >Do some models have twin electric sliding doors? See above >Do some models have a powered tailgate? Indeed some do - but not many. However you can get kits from the likes of aliexpress that can be fitted. I would post a link but I have been typing for a while and my wife want us to watch the TV now.

Hi Nicol, I had exactly the same problem with my freshly imported hybrid alphard. A yellow exclamation mark in a circle warning light appeared on the dashboard so I took it to a local garage and they were absolutely sure it's the worn break pads that need replacing. After they replaced them for £250 the warning was still there. So I plugged the car into a diagnostic app trhough the OBD2 port (I don't remember the exact error message) and did some googling and everything suggested that the problem is most likely the break capacitorm, which is exactly in the place behind the little grill which @smurf posted. I found a used one on Ebay for about £20 so it was not much of a risk if it wasn't it. And it did the trick! After replacing it, the warning light disappeared and it never came up again. The only problem was that the place where it is mounted is a bit awkward to access. Good luck with it!

I thought I’d let you know about my experience getting a new key reprogrammed – given no auto locksmith wanted to go near my 2008 Vellfire. I only had one key - photo attached. So, here’s what I did and it eventually worked out. I bought a replacement key identifying the internal serial number from this place on Ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/nejapautoparts Make sure you get the correct key and message the seller if not sure! I’m sure other sellers are available. I read quite a bit and found previous forum chats helpful eg - https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/7153-techstream-for-alphard/ and https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/3338-4-button-key-programming/ I then bought the Mini VCI cable and Techstream CD’s from this chap on Ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124808047632 Again, other sellers available but this chap was v helpful when I needed help. Once I got it all delivered, I followed the instructions (NB re-read the item description online and what to do for 64/32 bit PCs). I installed the VCI driver and version 18 of Techstream onto my laptop (from the CD supplied). Read the note/instruction file on the CD as well as the relevant instruction video. You need to get a licence key from the seller once all is uploaded and you start Techstream, add a few details and get the software code – to then email to the seller for him to then send you the new licence key . NB read and watch ALL the instructions and all should make sense. Tips were turn off your anti-virus software (64 bit) and make sure you set Techstream to ‘JAPAN’ when asked where you are located. Also it doesn’t matter what you put in the mandatory boxes for ‘dealer’ etc. How to Check if Windows 10 is 32-bit or 64-bit Press the Start button, then select Settings. Click on System. Go to About and look for the System type field to check your bit version. Then I watched a number of Youtube videos about how to reprogram a new key. I found this one to be the best. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmCN-YDkqwo Make some notes and take them into the car with you. You’ll find the VCI port all the way under the driver’s side dash to the right – a small white port. You’ll need to get to it kneeling outside the car. Make sure on Techstream you choose the aftermarket VCI from the menu at the top and not the default Toyota VCI. Anyway have a go and see what happens. Hopefully you’ll feel as smug as I did. I paid £40 for the spare key and £40 for the software/cable, so £80 in total for reprogrammed spare key. Must be cheaper than a locksmith…. And you now have the software to do a full diagnostic check. Bonus! Hope that helps

Hi all, Just to let the group know that Listers Toyota in Stratford-upon-Avon has a couple of folks there who are happy to help with Alphard / Vellfire service and parts: Samuel Hopgood Josh Goddard both are firstname.lastname@listers.co.uk. I haven't taken my Alphard to them yet, but have used exactly this dealer for about 15 years now for previous Toyotas and the service is always high-quality and courteous. I have been in email discussions with Samuel and I'm taking the Alphard for a full service later in the summer and he honestly seems super-enthusiastic about Alphards and Vellfires! Samuel has given his permission to pass on the above details, so hope that it helps with anyone looking for service from an authorised UK garage/dealer.

Hi guys, thought I would update you on the issues I had with my Alphard. So turns out it was two seized capilers and nothing to do with Speedo sensors. I guess because they went at the same time as chip was replaced, the chaps working on it, it's was easy to think it was electrical, ABS issues . All back on the road, all be it with new speed sensors I didn't need but glad it's fixed. Cheers for everyone's help

Hi. I have a 2008 Vellfire AH20. I've mentioned before, and it has been mentioned by other people about the height of the rear door, when open, being too low. My struts went up the the fully open position if lifted, but wouldn't lift themselves all the way up. Time for a replacement! Had a look on the internet and one company sent the wrong ones; too short and no brackets, even though recommended for Alphard/Vellfire's. I hot a refund in 4 days and had ordered a new set that looked right (showed brackets, etc). These arrived yesterday. I fitted them and they fitted perfectly! The cylinders ar shorter, but the close ok and, FOR THOSE WHO COMPLAINED THAT THEY BANGED THEIR HEADS, they open the door about 2" to 3" higher!!! They lift the door as soon as you unlock, but you can still pull down and shut easily. I'm really made up with them! The make is 'XIANGSHANG'. THESE WORK WELL and are highly recommended!!! (See attached pics) You don't have to bang you head again!!! John Harrison. Wallasey

Take the rear wheels off the discs have inboard drums with mini shoes inside . Locate the rubber bung on the face of the disc/drum (face the wheel bolts too) . With handbrake off spin wheel so hole is at the bottom . Insert flat blade screwdriver and feel for an adjustable wheel between the handbrake shoes. Spin it until the wheel locks on then back off until it spins with a little drag .

The side doors have a soft close motor, regardless of whether they are power doors or manual only, so this might be the sound you are hearing? Basically, it is so you don't have to slam the doors to get them to close, you just gently pull them shut and the motor pulls it tight. There is also the same on the boot lid. As regards the engine rust, the vehicle is nearly 20 years and will have been through many heat cycles and wet weather. A bit of surface rust is to be expected on steel that has been subject to the elements over a long period and is nothing to be concerned about. Likewise, oxidation on on aluminium is no big deal.

Hi, welcome to the world of Alphard ownership. Due to the age, if there is no record of a cam belt change then get it done along with the pump and tensioner, best to do a full service oil & filter, spark plugs, cabin filter, air filter, aux belt. The engine is non-interference so no major damage will be done if the cam belt goes awol. Fog light; Option 1, replace the reflectors in the bumper with led lights and wire them up as fogs, you can get them on amazon Option 2, convert the offside reversing light to a rear fog with a red lamp, just make sure that the lens next to it is not a brake light Fog switch; you can get one off ebay that will fit into the switch openings in the dash and pick up the power from the loom behind or use a piggy back fuse off the fuse box in the drivers footwell, make sure its a switch for a Series 10, 2002-2008 Check the wiring loom behind the bumper as you might find that there is spare connector that could be used for a fog light, the cars used on the north island of japan had fogs fitted and there was also an option of a winter pack, toyota have a standard loom that just means connecting up items when specified Parts of the car are galvanized but it's best to get it under sealed. With a lanolin based underseal like lanoguard, lanoshield etc you do not have to mask off any rubber components as it will not rot them unlike the oil based under-seals, also being clear it does not "hide" any problem areas. Speedo/Odometer: Option 1: You can get replacement dials from Lockwood International that read MPH but leave the odometer clocking up in Kilometers, they are fairly easy to change and there are guides on the Lockwood web site on which dial for your model and how to change them, if you do fit a dial just leave a note for the mot tester that says the odometer reads in kilometers other wise he is likely to put it down as miles, it does not have to be entered as miles on the paperwork Option 2; Have an electronic chip fitted that converts the input signals into miles but get written proof of the initial km reading then the reading after the chip is connected as the reading can be clocked, what should happen is the initial km reading stays as is and then miles are added as and when used, so the reading is a mix of km & miles Option 3; Leave the dials as standard and use a GPS device for the speed Check the dates on the tyres, do not rely on the depth of remaining tread, when I got mine the tyres were 8yrs old but still had very good tread Check the rear axle bushes as they do rot/split although the mot should pick them up Check if there is a date on the battery as it might be well past it's best, the cars can sit around at the auctions for weeks, possibly months, then there is the time it takes to ship them, once the voltage drops below 10.5v the cells can get damaged beyond recovery, replacement type is a 005L minimum 65Ah You might want to disconnect the toll reader system it's either the slot on the dash or fitted elsewhere e.g. centre storage cubby, you can use the power to it for usb sockets, the aerials for it, top of windscreen, can be done away with and the wires used to pull other wires in if needed For parts and service items check Autodoc, Ebay, even Toyota sell on ebay, Febibilsteign, Blueprint, use the link for part numbers then use them as a cross reference Amayama.com

Hey. Apologies, my wife is using the car these days and I've always forgotten of an evening. I did remember that this Youtube video shows the different layouts in the 7 seat AH20 really well, including the "bed mode". All the best.

No need to remove the bumper, you can bend the inner wheel arch back after removing clips underneath, did mine on Sunday, new pump on Amazon for a tenner next day delivery

Having a general spring clean around the nooks & crannies where our ancient forest spreads general tree grunge over our AH10. The 16 hole drain made me wonder where it drained to. Deep in the darkness it looked like ‘nowhere’! A thick mass of seeds & gunge was observed in the deep black pit. I had my trusty old workshop vac out anyway so with the multi small tube crevice clearing attachment I set to work. About 15 minutes either side and clean metal was spotted. It would have been easier with a long flat nozzle. Beggars can’t be choosers. Copious amounts of water proved all was clear and self was told to pay more attention. My defence is our area has had a winter of monsoons and gales, & parking is under wall to wall big old trees. i rest my case m’lud.

Did some research. Toyotas OEM Wipers for the alphards used blades provided by nippons blade division called NWB (nippon wiper blades) For the 10 series, the fronts are 26"(650mm) and 16"(400mm), with rear being 16"(400mm) For the 20 series, the rear is the same, but the fronts are 30"(750mm)and 14"(350mm) NWB blades are coded D** (** is the 1st 2 digits of the size in mm, E.g. D75 = 750mm) and the rear is GRB40 The 'D' is their design range that use graphite coated rubber. You can buy their HDA or HDB range (the frames are identical, but the rubber blade is coated in varying qualities of water repellant material that coats the glass (better performance with frost/snow)) You CAN buy just the rubber inserts (check that your existing blades are the nippons ones, they should have a metal clip/rail that needs to be removed and reused - the rubbers do not come with this metal part) I bought a set from amazon.co.jp (you can create an account in English) Search term for 10 series is NWB D65 D40 GRB40 Search term for 20 series is NWB D75 D35 GRB40 You can also buy DENSO, which is a decent OEM used by Toyota. Their largest blade, unfortunately, is only 700mm(28") so if you have a 20 series, you will have slightly less coverage on drivers side. DENSO codes are DU-070R (28") or DUR-065R (26") driver side DU-040(16") or DU-35(14") passenger side And DRB-040 rear. For all these wipers, the passenger and rears are about £8 to £12. The drivers side, being much larger is about £22 to £26 These are hook fixings, so any cheapo blade of manufacturers wipers will work if you get the sizes right. The rear blade has a different connector design, so probably best to stick with the NWB or DENSO designs. Opieoils (linked in a previous post) is very competitive of you are buying the denso blades, but you will be limited to a mac size of 28" If you still have the original NWB (Nippon) blades fitted, you can save money by buying the rubbers only, from Toyota, or amazon.co.jp

Just a thought, but have you tried cleaning up the inside of the battery terminal clamps, and wherever the battery negative lead connects to the body? They could be oxidized and causing a volt drop when trying to provide cranking current. Putting the starter pack on could bypass where the problem connection is, and hence why you get an instant start.

I have just had my first service at my local garage. We have been with them for several decades and I was interested to hear their opinion on our campervan conversion. I was pleasantly surprised to get the positive reactions I did. The headlamp discolouring is being dealt with with advice from yourselves on this forum and also local advice. I am now aware why the service (oil change in particular} 6k-7k intervals is important. Quote "the sump is small for the engine size Graham, only 4 litres of oil. Change it and the filter every 6k or so" unquote. Thanks for your help here everyone. Kind regards Graham

Depends on what you buy. They usually come with one fuse each and you use the original fuse in the main socket. Obviously you can put whatever fuses you like in but you don't want a higher fuse rating than the original, so pairs of the same or the spur being on a lower rated fuse would be best. When choosing which fuse socket to use you need to find out what it currently powers and / or do a test to find out whether its a permanent feed, comes one with the ignition or is only on when something happens, say headlights being on.

Absolutely superb job you're doing there, especially with the outdoor aspect!!

kseal can block other parts of the heating system, always best to find where the leak is. If there is plenty of coolant in the rad, and you can see it moving when cold with the cap off, then it could be blocked in the heater matrix. You need to warm it up then check the small hoses, feed/return, that are connected to the matrix near the bulkhead, if they are both warm then the valve is working, and you have flow through the matrix, if not then the valve is not working or blocked. If you have flow through then the other cause could be the air flap control disc is faulty, a known fault, it is situated behind the dash low down, above and to the left of the parking brake, a disc from an Avensis control will fit, but both units need stripping down and the discs swopping

I have found a simple and cheap way of making my speedo compliant.. For just over £12, I purchased a sheet of self adhesive white stick on numbers[you cut from a sheet] and stick on the outside of the speedo head where the white marks are between the KPH numbers[Make sure you use the correct white marks] There are also stickers to add MPH onto the centre of the speedo face. The seller sends an extra set of numbers in case any mistakes are made. EBAY Number286074653037

Wooowww thanks alot, it's work at mu GGH20.

hi check this link Car Radio For Toyota Vellfire Alphard H20 2008-2014 CarPlay AndroidAuto Automotive multimedia Tesla Style Bluetooth 4G GPS WIFI - AliExpress 34

Hi all, I’ve recently received my 2012 Alphard and managed to instal the OEM stalk, relay, and fog light for the MOT. I'm grateful for the help I received from the forum members—the information shared here was invaluable. I've begun documenting all the modifications I make to my Alphard, from the day I got it to this latest fog light installation. After a month of research, I'm putting together a video tutorial demonstrating the OEM fog light retrofit (though not in the factory rear location) to make the process easier for others. This video will offer a straightforward, step-by-step guide, saving others the time and effort of extensive research. Here's a short introductory video showing the car's arrival. I imported it myself, saving thousands of pounds in the process. I'll soon be posting a detailed guide outlining the import process and associated costs:

You sir are a a legend. I stumbled upon this thread and if I hadn't I was going to spend up to $8k or even more on trying to fix the problem. I was even close to purchasing an amplifier part # 86280-58090 but couldn't find the specific amp and there was one place in nz that could order it for $4.5k. I'm so greatful for you awesome bunch and I pray that God blesses you all with your hearts needs. Ps I own a 2012 Toyota vellfire 3.5 v6 with the 18 speakers. Thankyou thankyou thankyou thankyou From fiji to the world! Oh io 20250108_181843.mp4

You are very brave to entertain doing this job, I hope it all works out fine for you. Looking at the gravel drive might have been an idea to lay a tarp on the ground under the vehicle to retain anything falling off. Nice pictures

Welcome david its easier and cheaper to replace the rear bushes any garage should beable to do this for you they are easy to source check this link out https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125378262547?itmmeta=01JDSEPA9BWF4EQYHF1FKPWZ93&hash=item1d31207613:g:susAAOSw4D5ahvbe

This is what the Scottish ones say you should do. *If you have received a penalty charge notice (PCN) for driving in a LEZ and you believe that your vehicle is LEZ compliant then the local authority that issued the PCN will conduct a review of the vehicle compliance status with the DVLA as part of the appeals process. To do this, please contact the relevant local authority using the process for appeal described in the PCN. If you have not received a PCN and you think the result from this vehicle checker is incorrect, please email us at lowemissionzonesenquiries@gov.scot including the name and address of the registered keeper along with the vehicle make, model, colour and vehicle registration number (number plate). If the vehicle registration number has changed in the past five years then the result from this vehicle checker may not be correct. If you believe that the result is incorrect for this reason then please email us with the registered keeper and vehicle details as described above. The data accuracy of this service is always improving. We recommend that you re-check the compliance status of your vehicle shortly before you intend to drive in any LEZ.

Having spent many hours online looking for the correct initialisation code to use Torque Pro with my Alphard, I have finally found a bluetooth reader / code combination that works on this model. It only took four months 🤣 So, I am using the VGate iCar Pro BLE 4.0. I have a no-name chinese ELM reader that doesn't work and another that I will give a go as soon as I get it out of the other car as the VGate doesn't seem to bluetooth connect with my head unit. In Torque Pro for the initialisation string I used the preset for Toyota (JDM, Celica, Corolla, Camry) which is: ATIB 96 ATIIA 13 ATSH 8113F1 ATSP A4 ATSW 00 I hope this might help someone.

I drove home okay, did not speed. Colin rang me on thurs 19th to say the new bushes had not arrived yet, but to take it round to him and he would have a look see. After inspection he said who had told me that they needed replacing, as they were okay for now and not to worry. So when Colin receives the bushes, I will get the job done anyway. I have used Colin Campbell, CMC Autos, Sidlesham 01243 64196 on my previous Estimas and now he looks after Alfie. It was Colin who introduced me to Peter Holland @ Bright Spark Autos 07774 152660 about my Hybrid Inverter, which was replaced last year. Colin also introduced me to Joel at Sidlesham Tyres 01243 641986, who has saved me a bundle of money on tyre buying over the last few years. For instance Kwik Fit charged me £502. for 4 Pirrelli tyres 215/60/16 fitted and when I came to replace them I rang Joel and was quoted £360. for the same tyres, been using him ever since. Reccommendations are a powerful thing.

Hello again Andrea, Following our brief discussion earlier today, thank you so much for following my suggestion to inform Forum members of where they can get their vehicles worked on. HAPPY Alpharding

Sure, below is the link to the listing, I got the male one. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005015791016.html In case the link dies at some point in the future, its a "28 Pin Automotive Audio Wiring Harness Connector Socket Toyota" with a male socket.

I've bought one from eBay and AliExpress, both under £10. I'll pm you the AliExpress link. The link i shared is s common design, but be aware that not all of these clone devices are jobd, the link i used has an older design with dedicated daughter board inside. I cannot vouch for the newer single board designs.

Thought I would post this here as I can't be the only one with this problem. The paint has been peeling on my bonnet since I imported the Vellfire a few years back, it started from the stone chips and water got under the paint and lifted more. It was starting to get ugly, I put some small stickers over it to try and stop it, but the peeling grew and grew. Went to see a couple of different bodyshops where I know the guys, they warned me that because of the white pearl paint it is nearly impossible to match and blending in over panels stands out really badly, it would never be a case of just painting the bonnet 😭 So one night a few weeks ago I just peeled all the flaking paint off the whole bonnet and ended up like this:- Sanded the edges of the paint back to make it as smooth as possible then had a few experiments with some white carbon vinyl car wrap, came to the conclusion the hardest bits on the bonnet is where the 3 crease lines meet so tried those bit a couple of times with some off cuts:- Then went for! Got everything clean and layed that puppy down with the help of a mate as a second pair of hands, and seeing as neither of us have ever tried to wrap anything before it went surprisingly well on the first shot 🥳 no defects, bubbles, creases or anything at all! Anyway, hope that gives you a bit of confidence if you are thinking of doing something similar, it wasn't that hard at all, and it looks much tidier now for a rough daily work truck.

Not with standing the previous comments, speaking to the mechanics who MOT my Alphard,the general census is that the "spongy" feelings when braking is due to the ABS,I must admit that on occasions when needing to brake hard, the "feeling" can be "is it going to stop?" but I have noticed if I press the pedal harder the brakes do work as you would expect. My Alphard always passes the MOT brake test with no comments about the brakes.

It was the American version of the 2.4 engine that had a oil usage problem not the jdm import all jdm versions are bullet proof if well serviced regularly I do a oil change on mine every 5000 miles

Sorry, I missed the important bit. A 2006, manufactured after Sept 2005, will be a facelifted model which uses the 4D67 chip. Earlier models use a different chip. DVLA will have the date of manufacture (supposedly) if the vehicle is already registered in the UK

It isn't possible to get a regas without a pressure test as it a requirement of how the machines work. The machine removes the gas and oil, puts the system under vacuum, and waits. If it loses vacuum it will not put gas back in. This is to stop the unnecessary release of refrigerants into the atmosphere. If you put the heater temp to max it should drive the flap all the way in one direction. If you then put the temp to LO, it should drive the flap completely in the other direction. If it is doing this, and you still don't get cold air on LO, there is something else going on.

Hi, I have made a short video while repairing my 2003 Alphard heater air blend door actuator by replacing the tracked disk within the unit. Hope it helps if you have a noisy or intermittent actuator. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tr0H7cIDzPE

I agree, the ECU does not' 'learn' your driving style per se; but it does calculate the average fuel consumption, and that is largely affected by historic driving style (i.e. speed, terrain, distance and load). Accordingly, it is that historic average that is used to calculate an estimate of the remaining distance that could be covered. The ECU cannot possibly 'know' future driving style' and has no other variable to use in the calculation. If those variables above change significantly, so will the accuracy (if one is needed) of the prediction. As the 'history of driving', my term, is the main basis for the prediction; resetting the trip, thereby deleting the history, and starting a new history, will discount previous data and base a new calculation on the new data it will acquire over the next few miles. I have a vehicle with two trips (as many do), and by resetting one periodically, the difference between single journey data and, say monthly or quarterly data can be compared. It is surprising what the difference is. I agree the remaining distance can increase, If resetting the trip it can only increase, initially. I use to get much amusement from increasing the remaining distance on a previous 5.3l V12 machine ! Smiles per mile until I arrived at the petrol station.

Hello David, Welcome to the Forum. So sorry to learn of your plight. After only eight weeks of ownership, and buying from a garage, you will have Consumer Rights. What warranty do you have ? Even the shortest warranty should be 90 days; more than 8 weeks. I would be speaking with Trading Standard, Citizens Advice, and maybe a Solicitor, before speaking with the Garage again. They may take responsibility, they may not; you will need to give them an opportunity to rectify the issue before taking further action. Sending you a re-conditioned torque convertor is, imho, pathetic. Was the warranty parts only ? Please send me a Personal Message and let me know the 'garage' you bought from. At this stage, better not to name (and shame) them in this public forum.

IVA isn't Vat, IVA is individual vehical approval which is required for import vehicles under 10 years old, over 10 years old only MOT is required. IVA is mush more stringent and intensive than MOT. My point being the very newest of s20s are pretty much all 10 years old, s30 started in 2015

http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/raw_content/AWI4PJuoU9h2CeTmduYc

Thank you. I can confirm your information helped and my registration have been approved. THANK YOU AGAIN