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Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!

One thing I missed when driving my gen 1 Alphard is the indicator lane change 3 flash that is in many newer vehicles these days, and I got so used to using it that when driving my Alphard I often forget and just flick the indicator to change lane and, of course, I get one flash. I'd seen someone was selling an alternative direct replacement flasher relay for upwards of £50 that was modified to give the 3 flash, but that price was too much for me to just avoid holding the indicator down a bit longer. A bit of research turned up a potential alternative for less than £10 on eBay. It didn't specifically mention the lane change function as it seemed to be more aimed at people retro-fitting LED indicator bulbs and messing up the flashing rate, but I had a suspicion so I took a punt and bought it. The original Toyota item and the replacement are shown below. Notice the knob for adjusting the flash rate, and poorly translated "about dodges three times" on the replacement relay. Fitting it was easy enough. Simply pull out the coin drawer thingy just above the bonnet and fuel flap release levers on the driver side of the dash and look in. The relay is fairly obvious. The relay put up a fight and was reluctant to release, but a bit of jiggling and a little bit of leverage from a screwdriver got it out. This photo shows the new one fitted. I turned the hazards on and the flash rate was very fast, but with a quick twiddle of the knob on the relay I had the flash rate back to where it should be. Then the moment of truth - ignition on and flicked the indicator stalk. Three flashes and stop 👍. £10 and 10 minutes work. Bargain! This is the one I bought on eBay, but there appears to be loads of sellers as the original Toyota relay was used on many different models, as you could imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386806258020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xfg_a3ycs9s&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ql8_keC9RJe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I'm a new owner of an 2013 Hybrid and i'm just searching relevant inf and documentation ref my model, so far i have the attached, if anyone else have any other, please share you never know when you need it maintenance-schedule.pdf auto-service-repair-manuals-and-wiring-diagrams-pr.pdf toyota-alphard-vellfire-em2441e-overall-electrical-wiring-diagram.pdf Toyota-ALPHARD-VELLFIRE-EM2441E-Relay-Locations-pdf.pdf Alphard-2-Vellfire-20-2008-2015-fuse-and-relay.pdf CAMSHAFT-VALVE-TOYOTA-ALPHARD-VELLFIRE-HV.pdf ALPHARD-VELLFIRE-Service-sheet.pdf hybrid-vehicle-dismantling-manual-for-ath20.pdf Alphard-20-Manual-pdf.pdf

Hi everyone. I installed android player to my car since 2022. Before this I never bother about the extra function using canbus box because my car didn't come with 18 unit speaker. Last year I make a study about the function of canbus and make some modification. 1) I bought the socket for meter 40pin. This socket connect to canbus box and HU. Original for other car. 2) I change the connection point to 13&14 follow the diagram 3) then I bought canbus Toyota from raise. 4) after that setting the HU You can get information like - parking trajectory - door information - parking radar - outdoor temperature - millage odometer - average consumption

So, here we are safely moved from the wilds of Argyle & Bute to chilled out East Dunbartonshire. 10 mins along the road a garage was found for van MOT, passed with minor comments. Advised a Velfire in the area also frequents said garage, maybe a group will be formed! New gaff a big improvement, excellent dry garaging for bikes & van fettling. Surrounding countryside a bikers joy. Life is good 😎

Did some research. Toyotas OEM Wipers for the alphards used blades provided by nippons blade division called NWB (nippon wiper blades) For the 10 series, the fronts are 26"(650mm) and 16"(400mm), with rear being 16"(400mm) For the 20 series, the rear is the same, but the fronts are 30"(750mm)and 14"(350mm) NWB blades are coded D** (** is the 1st 2 digits of the size in mm, E.g. D75 = 750mm) and the rear is GRB40 The 'D' is their design range that use graphite coated rubber. You can buy their HDA or HDB range (the frames are identical, but the rubber blade is coated in varying qualities of water repellant material that coats the glass (better performance with frost/snow)) You CAN buy just the rubber inserts (check that your existing blades are the nippons ones, they should have a metal clip/rail that needs to be removed and reused - the rubbers do not come with this metal part) I bought a set from amazon.co.jp (you can create an account in English) Search term for 10 series is NWB D65 D40 GRB40 Search term for 20 series is NWB D75 D35 GRB40 You can also buy DENSO, which is a decent OEM used by Toyota. Their largest blade, unfortunately, is only 700mm(28") so if you have a 20 series, you will have slightly less coverage on drivers side. DENSO codes are DU-070R (28") or DUR-065R (26") driver side DU-040(16") or DU-35(14") passenger side And DRB-040 rear. For all these wipers, the passenger and rears are about £8 to £12. The drivers side, being much larger is about £22 to £26 These are hook fixings, so any cheapo blade of manufacturers wipers will work if you get the sizes right. The rear blade has a different connector design, so probably best to stick with the NWB or DENSO designs. Opieoils (linked in a previous post) is very competitive of you are buying the denso blades, but you will be limited to a mac size of 28" If you still have the original NWB (Nippon) blades fitted, you can save money by buying the rubbers only, from Toyota, or amazon.co.jp

I just wanted to give a shout out to DYERNOSTICS, near Bodmin. Our head gasket (2.4L, 2007) went a couple of months ago and Dyernostics was one of the only local places happy to look at it. They were extremely knowledgeable about the Alphard and gave us some great advice about general maintenance. The repair came in on budget and on time, they kept us up to date throughout and they even fixed some other little niggles on the way. A nice chap and highly recommended. I will be using them for services from now on. Jobs a good’un.

Could be worth getting a new radiator cap. The coolant is released into the expansion tank as the engine warms up, and is drawn back in when it cools. However, if the cap is not sealing properly when the engine is not fully up to temperature it will spit hot water out until the cap seals.

Genuinely impressed with the main dealer service at Toyota Cambridge today. As someone who owned a Lexus for years, I’ve come to expect a high standard—and honestly, Toyota matched it. Not too surprising given they share the same site and team, but still, credit where it’s due. I booked it in for an interim service, but they went ahead and did the full service at no extra cost (including spark plugs). They also changed the rear diff and transaxle oils, and were upfront about not doing the gearbox oil because it’s a bigger job that needs the sump removed and filters replaced (just like someone mentioned in my earlier post); but told me to pop in during the week when they have more staff and they’d do it for £135! For some reason, my two local garages wanted approx £680 for the job, excluding the diff/axle oils. Toyota charged £430 for everything excluding gearbox oils. Their full service is normally £425, but with the rear oils and other small bits I’ve asked it should’ve been around £600 or so. All in all, very impressed with the dealer—and I’ll definitely be using them again for all my Alphard jobs. I’m more impressed at how cheap the service is in comparison to my previous Volvos and BMWs that would’ve charged me north of £700+ for a full service.

Renewed with Adrian Flux a couple of weeks ago. £40 less than my first year (last year) That was a surprise! Graham

Hi. I have put a couple of posts on here a while ago. I had a towbar fitted which cost about £400 (an Alphard needs something a bit bespoke which my fitter ordered from somewhere in Sheffield). I then bought a secondhand Thule 2 bikerack off ebay. It cost £80. It isn't the tilt type, but works very well, and I just accept I can't open the tailgate without taking the bikes off - I don't need to remove the carrier itself, since it has a foldable frame. The bike rack also doubles as a luggage carrier. Without the bikes on, I can attach a large Fiamma luggage bag which fits a huge amount of stuff. £40 off ebay.

While you wait for someone more knowledgable: >3.5l v6 auto. I have a 2.4 and it's not bad I would say - the V6 seems to be preferred as it makes a nice burble noise and has more power, though it has a timing belt that needs changing every so often (the 2.4 has a chain which doesn't) >8 seats There are 7 and 8 seat options - mine has two fronts, a wide and normal middle and the rear seats taken out - though they can also (apparently) hold three people also. >Middle row can face rewards (I take it you mean rearwards 🙂 ) My 2005 (10 series facelift) version certainly can - I have heard that later ones can't but I don't know which ones I'm afraid - some models have seats like an air-liner which probably can't turn. >Reversing camera I would hazard a guess that they all have these though some head units might have been changed that might not have them connected - my 2005 has two side cameras in the grill but they don't work 😞 >Auto on lights Mine has but your mileage may vary so to speak - and currently I have a dash cover which I need to make a hole in so my car doesn't think its night all the time. >Side blind. A camera in the passenger mirror so you can see the kerb Are these two things? Mine has side blinds in the back and a secondary side-mirror so i can see the kerb - though no side camera. >Dual climate control in the front, rear climate for the rearmost seats Again mine has - there is a separate air-con for the rear above the offside rear wheel >Electric sliding passenger door Mine has the near side powered though others have both - someone recently posted they got a right dash switch and plugged it in to find their offside door was also powered. >Alloy wheels Again that will depend but I think they all might >Twin sunroof I can only speak for mine, which has a manual front sunroof and a larger electric rear sunroof >Privacy glass The glass around the back is darker, though it can be seen through if you really try. >Vellfire or Alphard? Personal choice - the Vellfire is supposed to be more sporty than the alphard but I cant really see the point 🙂 >Based on my Elgrand spec, which versions should I refine my searches to? Can't help much here I'm afraid as so much comes down to what you want and how much you want to spend. if you have UKP 100k sitting around you could probably get a brand new one imported. >What models/years/configs to avoid? They are all as, or more, reliable as you have any right to expect but I don't know of any that are worthy of any sort of an avoid label - sorry. >Is hybrid available on older Vellfires? No idea > Are they all ulez compliant, regardless of being hybrid or not? Some are - I think 2007 inwards - again you will have to await a more knowledgeable >Is the indicator stalk on the left? It's on the right in my Elgrand, they can be swapped if you are suitably skilled/confident (I am neither of these ) Umm - yes I think so. I suspect you can swap them around but I haven't taken a close enough to be sure I'm afraid. > Are the buttons and any on screen menus in English? Elgrand buttons have some in English and some in Japanese! The on screen menus can be changed on newer models with a magic box from some guys in Russia. Unfortunately, mine is too old for this. The original head units are in Japanese and offer all the functions but most people, for their own sanity, have changed them for EU versions that may not be able to do everything and usually have to play around with various adaptors to get them to work. >Do the radio's support Apple CarPlay? If it's a modern head unit then quite likely - I doubt the original japanese versions are. >Does the speedo also indicate mph? The Elgrand was kph and I had a new panel fitted. The odometer is digital and fixed at kph. Most have been converted to MPH but I have fitted a separate GPS HUD which can show both in my line of view, which I find preferable anyway. >Are most of the commonly used parts readily available? To some extent - certainly service items aren't too much of an issue at all - but things like replacement windscreens would be more of a tricky proposition, though someone was talking about their insurance company being able to source the correct windscreen without too much of an issue. >Any recommended dealers that would be open to part exchange? I live in Surrey and happy to travel for the right car. I bought my Ellie from West Yorkshire. I will let some one in surrey pick up on that one - I am in Stevenage and I don't know of any specialists in my area. >Has anyone used an importer and achieved a happy outcome? Others can answer this - we got ours from a company that was using them as campers. >I'm easily distracted by shiny things and would welcome your thoughts if this, constitutes good value? Well it's certainly shiny. If that is your budget then look around and see if there is anything that is shinier 🙂 >Is the criteria of newest model and lowest mileage the most appropriate? Or are high mileage examples likely to run and run? I can't (and won't) say for sure but generally speaking it's a good rule of thumb. Just bear in mind a well-maintained one that has been used as a taxi every day will be better than a zero miles one that has been kept in an open field for 15 years. >Do some models have twin electric sliding doors? See above >Do some models have a powered tailgate? Indeed some do - but not many. However you can get kits from the likes of aliexpress that can be fitted. I would post a link but I have been typing for a while and my wife want us to watch the TV now.

Hi Nicol, I had exactly the same problem with my freshly imported hybrid alphard. A yellow exclamation mark in a circle warning light appeared on the dashboard so I took it to a local garage and they were absolutely sure it's the worn break pads that need replacing. After they replaced them for £250 the warning was still there. So I plugged the car into a diagnostic app trhough the OBD2 port (I don't remember the exact error message) and did some googling and everything suggested that the problem is most likely the break capacitorm, which is exactly in the place behind the little grill which @smurf posted. I found a used one on Ebay for about £20 so it was not much of a risk if it wasn't it. And it did the trick! After replacing it, the warning light disappeared and it never came up again. The only problem was that the place where it is mounted is a bit awkward to access. Good luck with it!

I thought I’d let you know about my experience getting a new key reprogrammed – given no auto locksmith wanted to go near my 2008 Vellfire. I only had one key - photo attached. So, here’s what I did and it eventually worked out. I bought a replacement key identifying the internal serial number from this place on Ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/nejapautoparts Make sure you get the correct key and message the seller if not sure! I’m sure other sellers are available. I read quite a bit and found previous forum chats helpful eg - https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/7153-techstream-for-alphard/ and https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/3338-4-button-key-programming/ I then bought the Mini VCI cable and Techstream CD’s from this chap on Ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124808047632 Again, other sellers available but this chap was v helpful when I needed help. Once I got it all delivered, I followed the instructions (NB re-read the item description online and what to do for 64/32 bit PCs). I installed the VCI driver and version 18 of Techstream onto my laptop (from the CD supplied). Read the note/instruction file on the CD as well as the relevant instruction video. You need to get a licence key from the seller once all is uploaded and you start Techstream, add a few details and get the software code – to then email to the seller for him to then send you the new licence key . NB read and watch ALL the instructions and all should make sense. Tips were turn off your anti-virus software (64 bit) and make sure you set Techstream to ‘JAPAN’ when asked where you are located. Also it doesn’t matter what you put in the mandatory boxes for ‘dealer’ etc. How to Check if Windows 10 is 32-bit or 64-bit Press the Start button, then select Settings. Click on System. Go to About and look for the System type field to check your bit version. Then I watched a number of Youtube videos about how to reprogram a new key. I found this one to be the best. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmCN-YDkqwo Make some notes and take them into the car with you. You’ll find the VCI port all the way under the driver’s side dash to the right – a small white port. You’ll need to get to it kneeling outside the car. Make sure on Techstream you choose the aftermarket VCI from the menu at the top and not the default Toyota VCI. Anyway have a go and see what happens. Hopefully you’ll feel as smug as I did. I paid £40 for the spare key and £40 for the software/cable, so £80 in total for reprogrammed spare key. Must be cheaper than a locksmith…. And you now have the software to do a full diagnostic check. Bonus! Hope that helps

It was the American version of the 2.4 engine that had a oil usage problem not the jdm import all jdm versions are bullet proof if well serviced regularly I do a oil change on mine every 5000 miles

Ok, so I cheated and detached the cup support on the replacement and it was a simple click into place job. I didn't fancy having to take the lower dashboard / console apart, at least not today.

Hi there! That job appears to not be one for the faint hearted regarding wiring and electrical work! There are a few threads covering people's adventures with it. Especially on the theatre sound with the 18 speakers, the original system has LOTS of features that the aftermarket look to not have included. In my case, I'm not brave enough to delve in, but Google translate is our friend! And we're now getting used to where most buttons are, and do, on the sub menus. The phone will Bluetooth stream music to it, and hands free telephone. We have a separate sat nav, and being not so young we don't really have a great need of other apps on the car rather than our phones. However I do appreciate many people like the modern appearance, and enjoy the challenge

I was getting P0171 "system too lean (bank 1)" also and cleaning the MAF didn't help - the error would come back. What fixed it for me was changing the fuel Lambda sensor which, on mine, was a struggle as the previous mechanic had forced the sensor into place and had damaged the thread. An M18 x 1.5 tap and die cleaned up both the thread on the exhaust and the new sensor which I purchased - I would warn to be on the lookout for ones with the correct plug on the end as the cheap ones come with bare wires that need to be housed in the original socket (as the supplied ones don't stand a chance of fitting) and are bound to cause issues. I ended up getting this one: https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/toyota-alphard-anh10-anh15-24-front-fuel-ratio-sensor-34437-p.asp Which is rather expensive but arrived quickly and was a straight plug in. If you haven't located the fuel lambda sensor look at the exhaust manifold cover behind the radiator. I also changed the fuel filter and the air filter - which may have helped but less so that the sensor I would say.

Looks like the third from the bottom. I hope this helps.

Hello Kathryn you will have no problems sourcing parts for your alphard most toyota dealers dont like imports or dont have the look up system i have the jdm look up system i help lots of members on here with part no.s and point in right direction with links where to buy from your more than welcome to message me anytime you want i will always reply with part no.s and will give you links on where to get your parts from and will be able to save you a lot of money.

Some people got robbed! Ours cost about £300 labour and parts under £100 Parts we got ourselves from here Your aftermarket parts specialist | GT4-Play

Hi everyone! On a legal note, if the garage has done something, they clearly have as you presumably drove it in and now it won't start, to cause this damage, then the responsibility will be on them to put you back in the position you were when you took your vehicle to them. Did they do some electric welding, without disconnecting the battery, to be able melt the ECU? Or what other manner have they managed to short out some electrical circuits, without fuses and other protection devices doing their jobs, in order to cause that level of damage - "inside the ECU had melted"!! As Picasso says, there are several ECU's on them, but I guess it must be the main one to have the problem with the immobiliser, and not be able to read anything from the OBD port, which is pretty jolly serious. Has the ECU actually melted, have you seen this? I do not know, so this is a question for anyone out there, if a new ECU is plugged in, will it know any fault codes on a "new" to it vehicle? I'm guessing now, but will it read the normal parameters from the car, and report anything "off schedule"? But would a new ECU need programming to the car? Beyond my knowledge and skill set that one! Do not be too nice about this, it can bite you on the backside, if you tow it away, and they try to wash their hands of it.

Hi picked up my Alphard had the wheels done black gloss .

Mine is a 2013 Vellfire Gazoo Sport Edition with 18 speakers. I have also removed the original screen to replace it with android screen. I also linked the purple and brown wires together to get the audio working through the toyota amplifier. Thank you fir the great tip.

I wouldn't panic about it. I've left spark plugs for 5 years on my early cars. As already mentioned. I'd spend the next couple of months putting penetrating oil on it. Hopefully she comes free. Snapping it would be a nightmare. Took me 42 hours to do the head gasket in my driveway🤣.

A person in russia has done it by removing the standard trim/bumpers, see pics. You can get lift kits on eBay, but the maximum is 40mm without putting undue strain on the driveshafts.

looking at your photo this Alphard has not been lowered so its standard suspension lot of owners in uk regret buying lowered Alphard's as we got lots of speed bumps and pot holes on our roads and to put a Alphard back to standard Hight your looking at £1200 British pounds

I replaced mine, I levered out the side with the R on it then bent the whole reflector up and pulled the other hand side straight out, I then filed down the serrated bits on one side of that tab, then bent it back in to shape, then pushed the whole thing back into the slots

Picked this up on Saturday. 2003 Alphard G. 73,000 KM V6 AWD I love this van.

Just a thought, but have you tried cleaning up the inside of the battery terminal clamps, and wherever the battery negative lead connects to the body? They could be oxidized and causing a volt drop when trying to provide cranking current. Putting the starter pack on could bypass where the problem connection is, and hence why you get an instant start.

Day 17 2 Hours Felt like big progress today. I've been dreading using silicon gasket but think it went pretty well. Started the day with a failed attempt to remove the exhaust bracket bolt with my new induction heating tool. Looks like I'll need to weld the bracket back together. I needed to jack the engine up quite high to get the timing chain cover above the power steering pipe. I did a few test runs to make sure I could get the cover onto the engine without ruining the gasket. I installed the water pump first but then removed it as I needed the extra space. It says to install the cover 3 min after applying the sealant. It took a bit of study and preparation to get my head around all the different sealant widths. Cover on and all bolts torqued to spec. Timing chain tensioner and water pump next I think.

kseal can block other parts of the heating system, always best to find where the leak is. If there is plenty of coolant in the rad, and you can see it moving when cold with the cap off, then it could be blocked in the heater matrix. You need to warm it up then check the small hoses, feed/return, that are connected to the matrix near the bulkhead, if they are both warm then the valve is working, and you have flow through the matrix, if not then the valve is not working or blocked. If you have flow through then the other cause could be the air flap control disc is faulty, a known fault, it is situated behind the dash low down, above and to the left of the parking brake, a disc from an Avensis control will fit, but both units need stripping down and the discs swopping

Yes. Either you tap from meter or obd still the same. this is the wiring to get data Tx & Rx from canH and canL only. But the obd port I connected with elm327.

Wooowww thanks alot, it's work at mu GGH20.

hi check this link Car Radio For Toyota Vellfire Alphard H20 2008-2014 CarPlay AndroidAuto Automotive multimedia Tesla Style Bluetooth 4G GPS WIFI - AliExpress 34

Craig, I had the same problem. It is not a difficult job, although a little fiddly. I got the part from Jap Euro car parts. I can’t remember the part number but it looks like the attached. For fitting I found you tube Rav 5 videos good to show you what to do. The design and layout is the same. Basically - remove from RHS wheel, remove the plastic covering that separates this area from the engine area, and you’ll see the washer fluid tank with the two pumps - one for front, one for rear at the bottom. They are held in with washer so can be pulled off. To check it is the pump and not the fuse. Swap the rear (working) pump and plug it into the front socket. If it works the pump is the problem. If it doesn’t, then you’ll need to look at the electrics. Hope that helps

Just like to give a big thumbs up to Drive Japan Ltd in Cumbernauld/ Glasgow area. Went to look at a Black 2011 Vellfire and after arriving got to see other stunning condition low mileage and certificated vehicles. No pressure at all from the dealer,left me alone to go in out and through the vehicles he had in stock ,all were in stunning condition and lower than normal mileage Though sorely tempted by the original I fell for another Vellfire that after test driving was coming home with us. So a big thankyou to Carlos and his Mrs for making the viewing a pleasure and the coffee was good too. So if your in the area and looking for a super clean beautifully presented vehicle give Drive Japan a visit,you wont be wasting your time.

Excellent work, simbad. A little daunting to remove the steering wheel at first, but it is so much nicer to have the original Toyota control and telltale indicator on the dash. You also get the added benefit that the rear fog will always return to off position if you turn off ignition.

Hi all, I’ve recently received my 2012 Alphard and managed to instal the OEM stalk, relay, and fog light for the MOT. I'm grateful for the help I received from the forum members—the information shared here was invaluable. I've begun documenting all the modifications I make to my Alphard, from the day I got it to this latest fog light installation. After a month of research, I'm putting together a video tutorial demonstrating the OEM fog light retrofit (though not in the factory rear location) to make the process easier for others. This video will offer a straightforward, step-by-step guide, saving others the time and effort of extensive research. Here's a short introductory video showing the car's arrival. I imported it myself, saving thousands of pounds in the process. I'll soon be posting a detailed guide outlining the import process and associated costs:

Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!

Welcome david its easier and cheaper to replace the rear bushes any garage should beable to do this for you they are easy to source check this link out https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125378262547?itmmeta=01JDSEPA9BWF4EQYHF1FKPWZ93&hash=item1d31207613:g:susAAOSw4D5ahvbe

Need to change head bolts as they are stretch bolts and can only be used once

Having spent many hours online looking for the correct initialisation code to use Torque Pro with my Alphard, I have finally found a bluetooth reader / code combination that works on this model. It only took four months 🤣 So, I am using the VGate iCar Pro BLE 4.0. I have a no-name chinese ELM reader that doesn't work and another that I will give a go as soon as I get it out of the other car as the VGate doesn't seem to bluetooth connect with my head unit. In Torque Pro for the initialisation string I used the preset for Toyota (JDM, Celica, Corolla, Camry) which is: ATIB 96 ATIIA 13 ATSH 8113F1 ATSP A4 ATSW 00 I hope this might help someone.

cheers chris just want to thank you i did phone mark richards they quoted me £1100 but i had a nice phone call from gary at mark richards this morning they admitted to making a mistake with my quote and they wanted to double check everything best they could do for me was £766.00 which i paid as i was getting over a £1000 + everywhere else

Hello again Andrea, Following our brief discussion earlier today, thank you so much for following my suggestion to inform Forum members of where they can get their vehicles worked on. HAPPY Alpharding

Sure, below is the link to the listing, I got the male one. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005015791016.html In case the link dies at some point in the future, its a "28 Pin Automotive Audio Wiring Harness Connector Socket Toyota" with a male socket.

My 2.4 (hybrid) has never used any oil and it is always clean almost as new when checked. I always check the levels weekly. It has never used any coolant either.

Hi all, well we are now happy owners of our side conversion, pop top with the wider 120cm bed Alph. We chose Calder Campers in Livingstone, and whilst nowhere near 'local' for us, we liked the way they did things. We went for the side conversion, as this suited our needs, and also went for the wider R&R bed (wasn't aware this was available and was offered by Calder), which again suited our needs. We found our vehicle beginning of June - 05 3.0 V6 with low mileage and was spotless outside and inside. We chose our interior fit out, colour, style, seat covers etc on our 2nd visit, which they 'preferred' we went in person to do. Looking back, this was very much the best option, as we changed our minds about 4 times lol. Angela was brilliant in helping us choose the final options, and have to say got it right. It then took about 5 weeks to collection, and picked up end of August. I am now going to be a little critical of them when it came to collection....... I am fairly sure that before handover a proper PDI was not done, as the interior was 'grubby', the new front seats had stains on them, and the trim around the units had a couple of 'chips' in them. The curtains behind the passenger seat had holes in them (yes they were replaced immediately). The table leg literally came apart in my hand, as the screws barely pierced the table top (and were fixed with more substantial screws there and then) In our opinion, quite major in terms of handover, and if were honest just took the edge of it. The next major issue we encountered (but not till we got home), was the awning rail we paid to have added on. We were told it was 2.6l, but was only 1.7, no use nor ornament, so we had to return to Livingstone to have it fitted to the correct length, which CANNOT be 260. The max we got was 2.2, better, but when youve already bought an awning with a 2.6l.....does make it a bit harder. The rails themselves have to fit inside the pop top (which makes sense), and as the front of the vehicle slopes downwards, isn't able to take the rail. Yes, they sorted it (and compensated me for my petrol) but again, left a taste. In terms of the quality of the fit out though, we cannot fault them, it has been done very professionally, and the units are solid and look great. The re-cover of the seats/R&R bed is also excellent, and cannot fault it. From start to finish they have been helpful, gave great guidance on what we wanted/couldn't have, so no complaints there. Also we have a 3 year Guarantee on both the fit out, and the vehicle, so some peace of mind there. Would we recommend them, despite the issues mentioned - YES definately as the quality of the fit out is 1st class. HTH