Rojie

Released from Review

LV subsidiary, Scenic, will insure a converted Gen 1 V6, as that is the company I am with. There is a maximum insured value though.

So pleased to hear the issue is solved. Thanks for sharing the cause and solution.

2WD should be about 8.5litres

Ouch. Brings tears to my eyes.

Hello Sparky, Welcome to the Forum. This is a common question ! There is a very long, and comprehensive, thread on this Forum answering your query. Try searching E5 / E10 and similar variations in the search box on the home page.

Hello Neil, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Roddy, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Brian, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello George, I have been driving automatics, and manuals, daily for close to 50 years; and some would say still learning ! The techniques are different. Hopefully, the DVSA isn't reading this. Having lived in the US I did have significant experience of the footbrake version of a handbrake ! But it is a brake intended for parking. Whereas, IMHO, the handbrake is more designed for hill starts. Even so, I have my own technique in the Alphie . Unless on a very steep hill, and expecting to wait for a long time, I would hold the van on the throttle. If you hold it on the brake it will roll back (when you remove your right foot from it. You can use your left foot on the brake, but that will require some practice. I would not change to neutral, and definitely not go into park which will complicate things even more. I would let the engine torque hold the vehicle. There is, after all, no clutch to burn out. It does require a gentle driving style and a little practice; but is a smoother equivalent of taking off on a hill in a manual. When in Park, automatics insert a pin through the gearbox, literally, to lock the transmission. This is why most automatics 'settle back or forward' when you shift into park. I have little doubt this technique would not meet with the approval of the DVSA or driving instructors/examiners. I also expect other Alphie drivers to have other techniques. Finally, As a newbie to driving autos concentrate on keeping your left foot on the floor. You do not want to be creating lots of excitement behind you by inadvertently stomping on either brake peddle with your left foot. Happy Alpharding

Hello Richard, Welcome to the Forum

Hi, I suggest you charge your main battery, while you watch Cuttothechase on Youtube. He has a video on how to deal with a troublesome / snapped sliding door cable. It is probably something else; but no harm done. Good luck

Hello jay, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Lew, Welcome to the Forum. There are some Alphards with electric curtains. I have them in my 2006 MZG. They are fitted to the middle and rear windows, and one, separately controlled, on the tail gate. My only observation is that they open and close rapidly. I would have preferred a more sedate and more seemly operation. Maybe some of the Gen 2 have them too.

Hhmm. Thanks, All this goes exactly opposite to what I have always believed. I'll be getting in touch with DVSA so I understand this better. I need to understand why. I had thought that with weight transfer under braking, despite ABS, we need the best grip at the front. (If you like drifting perhaps, but I want grip at the front !). I wonder if most tyre fitters know this, as it has never been mentioned to me by 'professionals' who should be trained in such aspects.

Regarding The Gen 1. Cuttothechase on youtube has a fix for early Gen 1 machines. Just remove the negative battery terminal, wait a couple of minutes, and reconnect battery. Battery does need to fully functional. Boot lock should be reset. I have not tried this myself. Fortunately, to date, I have not needed to.

Hi Chris, Thanks for this. Does you answer apply to Gen 1 as well ?

I confess. I am somewhat surprised. A very quick research agrees with what Bridgestone told you. You live and learn. As I prefer more tread depth at the front than the rear, the interesting question becomes "How 'soon' can the new rear tyres be transferred to the front ?" As my dear father used to say. "The only thing between you and a tree are your front tyres".

Hhmm. Interesting. I can understand the new tyres needing to 'bed in' some. I need to some research too. Thanks.

Great Achievement Steve, Well done from everyone for all your effort.

Me too. especially on a Front WD

Please advise us all what books you will (or hope to) have available for sale.

If you wish to remove it quickly, you won't be able to fit it 'properly' under the middle seats ! I think, potentially, a simple lay it on top approach will be a trip hazard on entry. It is not difficult to tease the matting under the plastic parts with a plastic pry tool. HOWEVER. If you do not remove the seats and refit them after fitting the mat, you will have 'unfinished' (gaping) joins which will be even larger trip hazards; and allow dirt and grime in. You should, imho, create a way of fitting the mat underneath the middle seats. My solution works; but there may be better methods you can discover. Where my seats slide there is a very narrow opening Which is necessary otherwise you cannot slide the seats If you don't remove the seats to fit it the mat 'properly' I believe you will soon regret it. My matting also passes under the rear kitchen cupboard doors, through the cupboard and extends through to the rear cupboard doors to the rear door. Thereby providing protection to the cupboard floor as well. I also used excess matting as shelf liners. The matting begins under the front middle console and runs continually to the rear door, effectively.7 Regarding quick removal. I could remove mine in less that 10 minutes BUT it would not be in a condition to refit. The other approach is to have the hospital type flooring fitted, durable, waterproof etc., that many conversions have. Although I have not seen that approach with the middle seats still fitted, but they could be. No hot pans please ! I have a twin induction hob, but the pans still need to cool. Hope this helps. As the matting isn't expensive; at least it can be replaced at reasonable cost if it does get torn. IF I remember, I'll take more photos when the camping configuration is removed for winter; November time. Then you will, if you can wait that long, see what it all looks like with an unobstructed view ! Good Luck

I doubt you will be able to program it. With respect to you, and others, the system is designed to prevent duplication by amateurs; otherwise Gen 1 owners would have no demobilisers. However, if the transponder is already matched to the vehicle .......... Here's hoping you're lucky and successful.

As Jilly says, you need a key blank (which includes the transponder) that is 4D67 Otherwise, imho, without that 4D67 chip you are wasting your time and money. I bought a key (£14, ebay) and had it programmed locally by a specislist automotive locksmith. £85. He also converted all my other keys to master keys. He mentioned you cannot program from a key that is not a master. Worked first time, and every time since for me.