Chris.ac

Clinging on to life at this point, you are looking at upto 20 years old. If you must have a hybrid, factor in this first. The other thing to look at is the cooling system, these are often neglected. I would buy a 20 series or later, as these changed to the synergy system, unless you really must have a 10 series, in which case mileage may play a part.

Other than parking a few inches further out? If you have children, put child lock on so they can't accidentally open door and hit kerb

I commute from Devon to South east London, if i go via Honiton, i quite often hit patches of mist and fog along the a303

I actually tried that route myself, you only have a couple of inches of space to try and undo the screw holding the reflector. On mine, the screw head just rounded off, as it had some corrosion, i couldn't get enough of an angle. Your may have better luck.

Might be an idea to share an image of what your console currently looks like, because if the original was replaced, the surround may have been swapped out, too. Its possible to buy units that come with a completely new surround, but we need to know what the problem is with your current surround.

It would help to post an image of your existing units, as we don't know if standard or aftermarket..

I bought something like this a few years back YaoFaFa 925PCS Bumper Retainer Clips Car Plastic Rivets Fasteners Push Retainer Kit 26 Types Auto Push Pin Rivets Set- Door Trim Panel Fender Clips https://amzn.eu/d/eK6lcDN

Leave that big plastic screw, that is for the wind baffle. Easiest option is to drop entire bumper. The plastic clips are quite brittle, you can buy a box of replacements on Amazon or eBay for under £10, i got assorted toyota set and replaced ones in engine bay, front trims etc at the same time. A screw and a bolt on the wheel trim, about 8 plastic clips running around lower edge of bumper, and 4 bolts visible when you open boot. Start to pull bumper from wheel arch, the are plastic lugs that i found easy to disengage using a trim tool. Entire bumper will have a single loom connector, and you will find the fog light connector near the drivers side reversing sensor

Is fuel cap on tight and creating a proper seal?

I use mine at least once a month.

Do you mean the front screen won't tilt to allow you to insert disc, or that you can't get the slot to take a disc? Its there a disc already inserted that is jammed?

The bulbs have a lifespan. The vapourised metal in the bulb eventually leaves a residue that causes an imbalance in current draw and heat dissipation. The ballast detects the current fluctuation and will start to flicker the lights, eventually they will fail to light up at all. Buy a pair of new bulbs. Be sure wear gloves, and don't be tempted to flick the lights on to test, as you should leave them on for at least 30 minutes the first time after fitting.

No. There is no key hole on the 2nd gen. This method uses the chip reader that is in the keyhole surround. The 1st gen has a far simpler security ecu.

Look for Russian spec series 20. The wipers and light stalks are reversed. Model code is ggh20L or anh20L instead of ggh20W. Check out my earlier post here. https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/7033-swap-indicator-and-wiper-stalks/#comment-20446

No

Nice. At least we have now confirmed fix.

I'm just using a cheap and cheerful blueprint part

You can buy and get a new fob programmed, as long as you have one working fob

No. The immobilizer and stop start are intrinsically linked. Even if you fool it initially, it will cut off as soon as you stop again.

I use the nano WiFi. It works on a 2010 alphard, and they supply a version of techstream that works flawlessly with it. You can also use it in usb mode

Ok, they are using the https://www.toyota-tech.eu/default.aspx online gsic, which mostly is correct, it is based on the export models. Our Japanese vehicles have codes like anh20w, ath20w, ggh20w, whereas the export models end with the letter L or R, eg. ggh20R for right hand drive. Slightly different wiring looms.

Something to be aware of, too, is that the high end amplified headunits are able to play 2 separate audio sources for front and rear, which is probably why there is a loopback

Be careful, there are differences between the JDM alphards and the export market ones (Hong kong, malaysia, uae, Russia) The wiring i have is from the Japanese dealer sold cdrom, and the online gsic versions are the export units ( you'll notice they make reference to left hand and right hand drive) Maybe your drawings are valid, but I'm a little cautious. Where did you get the drawings?

May be easier to run the AC for a bit, then turn off, you'll see it dripping.

Two. One centre of vehicle just bottom of bulkhead, one at rear drivers side, for the rear ac