Chris.ac

the bulb types are listed on the top of the headlamp casing, embossed in to the plastic. no need to remove to see what they are.

wait, that picture is NOT your vehicle and your box is currently closed and will not slide forward? is that it? in this case, is there something jamming it from the lower storage position?

I do not understand the question - the box is open as it is slid forward towards the front console, do you mean you want to slide it closed to cover the rear storage? Open the cupholder compartment and inside there is a handle on the rear edge that unlocks the sliding portion

You will need someone with Techstream, which is EVERY toyota dealer because its their official software - they will blow smoke about imports not being supported. If you have a laptop, you can buy a VCI cable from ebay for about £30 - this will allow you to program the key yourself, which is a pretty simple procedure, as long as you have 1 working fob already.

I bought spare from this dude, works perfectly after programming: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255649911789

6 months before I had to use it, started up first press of button. Same battery used to jump my son's car that was not used over the uni term. State of charge is still around 80% I have a bt battery monitor on both cars and the spare. Once a week I walk past and grab the current status.

thinking about it, the chip should not matter, if it is wired correctly, as the data into the chip is the original source that is shared to the abs and steering, cruise and engine ecu. your binding brakes are more the concern, as this would definitely affect the ABS speed sensors, it may well be the steering ecu responding as if your wheels have locked and you are in a skid.

nice, i have a 75D23L installed, max I have seen online in a D23L size was 95A (95D23L) - moving to D26L may be the way to go. At moment, I just carry a spare battery from my old 3L Diesel in the back with jumpleads, just in case.

all 4 wheel speed sensors are fed in, it may be thinking you are in a skid condition. You really need to connect up diagnostics, techstream preferably, you can then monitor all 4 wheels and the steering angles. Try turning off the VSC (long hold the 'skid' button to the right of steering wheel, whilst parking brake is on with engine running, see if this makes a difference.

EPS.pdf Wiring diagram for powersteering,

those early alphards were based on the granvia, there is not really a canbus to be spoken of, so not much can be accessed via techstream beyond engine. any customisation would probably be accessible via the toyota head unit, or voodoo turning of the ignition key whilst holding a button or flicking a lightstalk.

the D refers to width and height, not diesel. 80D23L = Performance score (based on capacity and cranking(80) Width/height (173mm x 204mm) length (230mm) left terminal -ve (L) Try to get the performance score as high as possible, the D23L part are important to ensure it fits in the battery holder and clamp.

just FYI, the official fog from toyota is placed in the the plastic panel above where you fitted yours, so it was a matter of jut swapping out that quarter panel. Good job though, looks OEM, and well done on the installer using the already fitted loom, many don't and run cheap wire under the carpet. Did you installer fit official stalk with both fog positions or did they fit a switch?

20 series is electric power steering - no power steering fluid. has your vehicle had the speedo 'chipped' to convert to miles?, im just trying to think, but if some signal is not correct, and the EPS thinks you are moving, it may be making the steering heavier as intended. It should be really light when parking/stationary, like 1 finger light.

Well, I since learned and discussed elsewhere, the parking assist ecu is responsible and uses the GVIF (Blue USB like connector) to transmit to the headunit and receive back the necessary images. You can buy a GVIF to phono adaptor that will allow the images from the ECU to be displayed on any headunit that accepts a phono input. The original dashboard button on the right of steering wheel will continue to allow you to switch between images

Have you been trying to configure it without it plugged in to the actual car? If so, that's why. There is some precomms handshake that goes on that will partially identify the alphard, trying to preconfigure the software will just cause frustration.

Check your throttle housing. If its mechanical with a cable, you need a kit If its an electronic motor, you may get away with the cruise stalk.

You could, but probably cheaper to have bought a 30 series. I say this, because of you think you were extorted with insurance, imagine how much it would be worth that amount of modification.

For which year/model?

You can get an English pdf Manual from https://vaug.club/kb/reference/alphard-vellfire-20-english-user-manual-by-nik-dy-izwan-shah/ Give you a chance to get up to speed with the buttons etc.

On 20 series, the speed signal feed to the dials is seperate to the signals running to the other ecus such as cruise, traction control, headunit, abs, auto parking assist. Worst that will happen is the conversion box will fail, in which case you just remove it/replace it.

If you have a laptop capable of running virtual machines, try downloading the preset up tech stream from ih8mud site, no need to bother worth anti virus or fiddling with drivers. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-techstream-in-5-minutes.1034923/

20 series steering controls are 3 wires Gnd, and SW1 and SW2, using resistive differences to determine which keys are pressed. The microphone is situated near the dome lights, but this is unlikely to be connected up to the aftermarket unit - should be easy to do though, as it is just a condenser. Usually aftermarket, they will mount the mic on the steering wheel shroud. I will hazard that they did not connect the right side steering controls to the new headunit, so you only have the leftcontrols working.

In most probability, yes. Easiest way to check, it's rejoice the plastic kick panels on front footwell, look for the pink hoseing, if that has water in, the blockage is at the exit points hidden behind wheel arch trim. If no water, yet further up by popping off trim on a pillar (be careful of airbags) if that the is still clear, it's right in the drain pan up top. How in 2 front corners of the front sun roof, little conduits run to the middle moon roof. The rears are of course right at the back, you can check behind the rear side panels

its based on the Japanese emissions regulations. check your rear window, it might still have the japanese sticker on it that will either state 2000, 2002 or 2005 in its eco declaration. If you have 2000 or 2002, you are out of luck. 2005 is basically euro 4 spec in the eyes of DVLA, so ULEZ compliant