BigNev

Hi Stephen! I don't have a Hybrid, but I would suggest also buying a (12v car) battery tester, relatively cheap kit nowadays, to give an indication of the amp rating capacity, as voltage does not necessarily give the whole picture. Yes it needs good voltage, for the communication side, but it's "amps that cranks". Actually though, from reading on this forum, I believe it isn't the 12v battery that cranks the engine!!! I'll hand over to those who know on that one!! Cheers, Nev

Ah, chuffing heck. My mistake, should have asked for a picture first, as one paints a thousand words!

Ah ECO mode button, I wish I had it!! Sorry, off thread!

No Simples Use Toyota actual fluid, yes it's more cost, but it will absolutely be correct. And it's not going to want doing often hey!

Well blooming heck! You live and learn! Let us know the technique if you get it sorted please! Cheers, Nev

Hi Malcolm! My guess is you are going to love it! I can highly recommend the "JPNZ" owners manuals! I actually bought one before we had the car, we were fairly sure that we were having one! They are not a workshop manual, but they give lots of bits of useful information how little functions work, that may take a lot of figuring out otherwise. I did also download an owners manual a member very kindly put on the forum, about May this year I think, (can't find it right now) and got my local little print shop to print it out for me. It's 550 pages, but they printed it 2 to an A4 sheet and double sided. I may be a little sad, but it's interesting reading. I am that man who reads the manual whenever we got a "new" car 🤣 But anyway - your question - below the START button is a rectangular switch with AUTO on it and 2 pictures of the mirrors, top one out, bottom one in. On mine in the middle position it will fold / unfold on locking / unlocking. If you press it in at the top, they will stay out, at least they do on mine! Cheers, Nev

Yay glad it's back up and running sweetly!! And hopefully the brief problem hasn't damaged your enthusiasm for it! Thr light on the dash was a total red herring!! Cheers, Nev

Hi there! I don't know how the immobiliser reader works on your particular model, but on one car I've had the chip move within the key housing, not at all far, but far enough so the ring in the steering cowl wouldn't see it. I suggest this as you say you've seen the immobiliser key symbol come up. Also - is there much play in the ignition barrel? Just a thought into the mix, if it's a bit loose, could the key be a tiny bit further out than it should be, which will mean the reader ring can't see it? It's a very fine area that they read!

Hi Liam! If your question is to me, them I'm not the OP with the query. I metely pointed out what I've seen, and read, and confessed it's not a job I'm brave enough to tackle! Cheers, Nev!

Hi there! Perhaps a picture of the one you do have would help? To avoid any confusion in description. Cheers, Nev

Aha!! Excellent! Would that be Electronic Throttle Control? I was on the right path, brownie points to me 😃 I'm constantly amazed how dumb some people are, who are supposed to do "the subject" for a job- how the hell could a gearbox problem stop an engine revving?? If it was in limp mode it would still rev to some extent. It would rev if the gearbox wasn't there!! And timing belt - your 3.5 doesn't have one!! But regardless, if it did, and slipped, if it ran it would rev.

So does that mean your battery was flat, then you jump started it? If it started, the immobiliser is not your problem. Some more background details could be useful! It's possible the jump start has spiked some circuit, and we'll assume it was connected correctly so there wasn't a 24 volt supply created - or there could be a few components that will not have liked that. I'm fairly sure there is a fuse box behind there, but you may need to remove the box to get at it, I think you squeeze in the 2 lugs, and unlatch the little damper on the outside left. Good luck! Cheers, Nev

Or also the motor for the throttle actuator?

Has it been jump started, and maybe it's blown a main fuse?

Blooming marvellous!! You are most welcome! 😃

Does that black plastic cover pull off? If so, it could look like my lpg filler, standard UK nozzle.

Will it rev with the accelerator pedal, out of gear? If not, suspect the throttle position sensor.

That's a reasonable idea, if the one that was fitted was known.... It seems quite likely, from the pictures of the rear of the unit, in aftermarket adverts I've seen, to be a choice of 2, when taking into account the connections for the amplifier system for the Theatre sound system etc under the passenger seat. Those adverts never cover the one I've got, but try to lead you to believe that with various adapters it will work.... Others experience on here says otherwise! And of course, we don't know if that amplifier has been bypassed by the fitting of the current head unit, only investigation by David will discover this!

🤣 Absolutely jolly marvellous mate!! It's a result! Sharing experience and knowledge is a rewarding thing in my book!

Hmm, not totally sure this is the right one, but it gives the idea.

Hi Chris I can show you what I bought, but it may be different to yours, I don't know! But we know a man who can, hey! I haven't used the piston seals, they were very lovely and free moving by hand, so I left well enough alone! Also, interestingly, the pad shims are shown as 2 pieces per pad.

Hi Dave! I don't know why they are different, but it is usual for sliding calipers. My guess as to why the L2 rubber is missing would be it was distorted or otherwise damaged, somehow, so would bind if it was fitted. I have had this happen to me on our Subaru. I left it out and it was fine, but I'm sure it is there for a purpose! So, and I must qualify that I am not a professional, especially as this is brakes, on my own vehicle - I would put it back together in the way it has been for the previous 7 years, using the correct caliper slide pin grease - NOT COPPERSLIP - it will probably bind up, yes that was the Subaru too. Yes, we always used it, but something has moved on and it is no longer the stuff for the job. Then locate the correct part on Amayama and swap it when it comes. I recently did this for our Vellfire calipers, they came as a pack of the piston seals, sliding pin boots, bleed nipple caps, banjo bolt washers, and the little rubbers for the pins I actually wanted, for £12!! I bought new slider pins too as they were only £2.40 each! Arrived in 10 days! Cheers, Nev

Wow! I'd say a blooming fantastic price!

Hi there! That job appears to not be one for the faint hearted regarding wiring and electrical work! There are a few threads covering people's adventures with it. Especially on the theatre sound with the 18 speakers, the original system has LOTS of features that the aftermarket look to not have included. In my case, I'm not brave enough to delve in, but Google translate is our friend! And we're now getting used to where most buttons are, and do, on the sub menus. The phone will Bluetooth stream music to it, and hands free telephone. We have a separate sat nav, and being not so young we don't really have a great need of other apps on the car rather than our phones. However I do appreciate many people like the modern appearance, and enjoy the challenge

As long as the shims cover the area of contact, between the pistons on one side and the caliper metal on the other, they should do their job. Do make sure you use the two different correct greases, for metal contact parts, and the slider pins parts. Not copper grease. I only learned that relatively recently!