Chris.ac

I lost a bookmark from a Japanese site, they had a small controller that monitored the charge rate of the battery, to detect when the alternator was on, and would switch on the DRLs, it would then switch them back off again 30 seconds after the charge voltage disappeared when the ignition was switched off. I think it's possible to find similar devices on AliExpress or eBay.

Went on 40 Min drive, couldn't get the unit to calibrate to my wheels rotating. Either I need to do something else or it's not able to connect to the relevant abs data. I see the data on car scanner, as 4 separate wheel values. I will send them a message, and see if there is any other information. The other functions with as intended.

That reference seems to be a Highlander. Isn't it one of the parts listed here? https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/MNH10W/150750/electric/8401

Ok. I've installed. I've yet to calibrate it, but what is surprising, is that this is an updated unit that has some extra features. You can set it to flash the indicators when you open any door, including the boot. It can flash the hazards when gear is switched to reverse. It will flash hazards when hard braking. It will unlock all doors when emergency braking. It offers alternative way to set the auto lock and unlock doors when moving from park to drive. It has a built in fatigue alarm that you can set to remind you to take a rest after several hours of driving. It lets you set a maintenance reminder after x number of miles. Lots of roadworks here, and you need at least a km of level constant driving to calibrate the abs wheel speed data, but so far, the added safety functions make this value for money. I have taken some photos of disassembly. Will add when I confirm the tpms functions correctly

I had some parcels delivered today from AliExpress, but i won't be back home until tomorrow to see if this was one of the items. I'll post some photos of installation if i get time this weekend.

Which one? There are 4. One on each manifold, so one on the radiator side which is easy enough, 2 on the catalytic converter, and 1 on the bulkhead side manifold. Without saying which sensor, the mechanic really cannot say it is difficult.

What other electrics are you using at the time? I.e. are headlamps on? The reason i ask, is that if there is no load on the alternator, the battery charge electronics reduce the current to the battery. If your battery is in a poor or weak condition, this will affect idling. Linked to above, switch on ac all your lights, high beam etc - if the idle settles, it looks like a dirty throttle flap/actuator Check air filter - my anecdote to this is that i found a plastic crisp packet had somehow been sucked into the air filter housing! Check if your throttle is clean, deposits build up on the air flap actuator, and there is a small bypass that allows air to flow when throttle input is at zero. Any dirt can foul this bypass hole and cause rough idling ( i assume when you are actually moving, you have no issues with jerking or rough acceleration or constant speed. Clean (or more likely replace) the MAF(Mass airflow sensor)

Still need help,?

That would be the first thing to check. Did you fit this yourself? My importer had someone do this and it was not done well. They used piggyback fuse that wobbled in the holder. Removing the speedometer dash is actually very easy to do. So unless you fitted yourself and are sure it was done well, check how the unit is wired, it connects to the canbus wires that provide much of the data including what you describe as occasionally failing.

I noticed mine not working when i tried to use a tyre pump. I disconnected the usb sockets that are connected to the loom that feeds the 12v socket and it started working again. I haven't got my multimeter out yet to figure out why. Check if you have any usb ports fitted, as many of the ones that fit into the standard switch positions come with a plug and play connector that takes power from the 12 v socket

Depends on if aftermarket was fitted. On the boot door, it was originally capless incandescent. You have two long rectangular plastic covers that can be removed to give easy access.

The bulbs are listed on top of the headlamp. You need D4S bulbs

Yes, the remote allows the rear to select aux input. On the 20 series (i have the 18 speaker system), you can separate the front 7 speakers for front audio, and the rear 10 for the rear screen, with independent volume control.

Yes. In 20 series, you connect the RCA at the back of the centre console, and switch headunit to aux, there is then a vtr option.

I have a 20 series, so no hands on with the 10 series system. There is a decent blog for the 10 series, that goes into details about the headunit. http://eightseaters.blogspot.com

I've just ordered this from AliExpress. If you want to wait and see if it is really compatible. I found one that states alphard for £31.

Nope. I think there may have been a basic form in the 2014 revision of the 20 series, but would need someone else to confirm. As i said, these basic ones utilise the abs sensors to monitor changes in rolling diameter. Something like this integrates well into an existing switch blank, and connects to the obd port. I just found this on AliExpress: Digital LCD Tire Pressure Monitor System OBD TPMS Display Security Monitoring Alarm For Toyota Corolla 2014 Car Accessories https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIH1uaC I think someone in this forum fitted one.

No. There was no tpms as standard on 20 series. You can add aftermarket. You can also get a basic one that uses the 4 abs speed sensors to determine a pressure difference ( by measuring the rotational speed, you can see if one wheel has a larger or smaller diameter) so didn't need additional sensors fitted

I have a similar unit. As long as you let them know the model of the headunit, they will provide the correct wiring loom.

Hid bulbs will start to flicker once hot, when they are starting to fail. If they do flicker you can usually get them to work again for 10 mins by letting them cool down. The best way to check is to switch them on for 10 mins at night and see if they start to flicker. Eventually they will fail completely. They are sealed by the weather proof cap, to prevent moisture. So i doubt that is the problem. You say you don't drive it much at night. So i will say this sounds like the bulb is starting to fail, but you won't notice.

Yes. You need to wear gloves to prevent getting any oil from your fingers on to the bulb.

There are a few videos on YouTube that explain where each sensor is located. Search for 2gr-fe sensors

My experience with aftermarket? I bought a pair, one of them i had to cut off after the thread seized during fastening, I'd put down to poor tolerances. The second one the boot split split 2 months, vs the genuine Toyota that were fitted that lasted 15 years

Amazon online. I bought some OSRAM XENARC NIGHT BREAKERS If you look online, you can probably get a pair for£80