Chris.ac

im at the point of 'do i install these reflector replacement led lenses, or do I go for a switchback red/white led bulbs in the reverse light holders and preserve the standard reflectors.

Merry Christmas - Rear fog wiring.pdfI attach excerpt from the wiring diagramme - full trace of rear fogs - hope it helps, I got the digramme from cardiagn'dot'com.

I think they were expecting a drought when designing the alphard. bottle holders in front doors, bottle holders in sliding doors, 2 holders on middle row armrest, 4!! holders in rear armrest - Oh and not forgetting the 2 holders in centre console! Now I could go the whole hog and buy the cup holders that sit infront of the vents near the windows at the front, but I think my thirst has been quenched!

Part number 84140-42080 - common to several high end toyotas, the standard part is 84140-42070 - the wiring loom is already set up for the rear fog, even the fuse was present - I had to add the relay in the passenger side footwell. I bought part from here: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8414042080 next step is to drop bumper and connect the fogs to the existing plug that is attached to the driver side rear sonar sensor

Fitted upgraded light stalk, rear fog is now switched on/off via momentary switch 508490281_VID_20211218_1441141.mp4 Hardest part was freeing the steering wheel, but even with my lack of experience, I was able to remove old and replace with new in less than 45mins. If anyone genuinely interested, I will remove it all again to show steps.

https://puretuning.net/en/chiptuning-files/toyota/alphard/3-0i-v6-220hp They are selling the firmwares - at 85euro for stage 1 - now there are several remappers in the south west, 2 of which I see are in/near exeter, I imagine for stage 1 they just connect up to the ecu with a re-programmer and upload the new ready to roll firmware, stage 2/3 are when you start taking up to 2 days to do roller tests and modify other things like the egr and maf - you can even have it so it makes those boyracer pops and bangs from the exhaust. I image you are looking at a couple hundred, I dont think its worth the hassle.

My vehicle is a 2010 Alphard - same mechanics and tuning - If you really want more oomph (doesnt need it, will do 0-62mph in 7 seconds) you can get it stage 1 unlocked, adds about 15% moar powah

Japanese domestic market cars are speed limited to 112mph (180kph) - it will comfortably get to that speed at about 3500rpm Its maximum HP will be 280 - again, this is based on an agreement between the Japanese car manufacturers 'anti competition'. My 3.5l shows consumption each minute, and averages between 8km/l and 12km/l (22 - 33mpg) occasionally I blip the accelerator when an audi or bmw is trying to attach itself to my rear, and consumption drops to around 5km/l (14mpg!) So, I would honestly say, as long as you drive it sensibly, (my driving is a mix of city and rural), you should get at least 28-30mpg

this is from the 2008 manual, so its a feature that may have been available as an option in the earlier alphards

the older keys (pre2008) have a small transponder chip near the base of the key, its in the actual metal itself, its only function is to 'activate' in the ignition key and disable the immobiliser

its pretty useless, but also a legal requirement for vehicles over a certain size in Japan - they probably fitted the smallest permissable in order to not have some audacious monstrosity hanging from the fender

This makes logical sense - the VSC computer actively monitors the rotational speed of each wheel and measures this against the steering angle/camber and the reported speed from the engine - if there is a large enough difference/delta measured at the wheels, it will cause the car to detect this as a fault with the system. I wish they had fitted a proper TPMS as standard - I think it is probably a wise investment if it prevents these types of problem happening. Now I know you can buy tyre valve TMPS systems relatively cheaply, but not sure if they are any good vs the more expensive ones that are fitted inside the tyre.

the remotes codes are stored in the car ECU, so the remote batteries going flat is not a problem.

yes - ill attach the document (was a toyota 'feature' bulletin'

hope I dont need to replace mine ever - heated and Hydrophobic UV coated. Apparently, UV/sunlight self cleans it and I must say so far ive not had to touch the glass since October, it really does seem to stay clean, whereas my previous regius, I was wiping them down eery few days

Is the car 2007 or earlier? if so the whole rear panel comes off from the bottom end first, the top has a lip that sits against the glass - I think it is very similar to the Hiace/regius in that respect - although you may be lucky as the catch mechanism has a removable cover on the later models, as well as bulb access panels.

hmm, it added stuff to end of the link try this : https://cardiagn.com/toyota/toyota-alphard-vellfire/ EM08Z5E is the code for the 2008-2011 models the other code are the late gen series 20

alot of the features you mention utilise BEAN (older toyota version of CANBUS) in order to communicate - its possible your converter is putting noise onto the data signals. My converter takes its power directly from the fusebox on the drivers footwell side and has its own ground to the chassis. If you have now removed it, and still have these problems, it is a head scratcher. You changed fob battery, but how is the actual 12V battery? is it still the original Japanese one, is it 'healthy'? I have link to a page I found online that has the wiring schematics, but these are for 2008 onwards (20Series) - there may be commonalities with the wiring https://cardiagn.com/toyota/toyota-alphard-vellfire/

no, i was asking for one, heh

Stalk I ordered from AMAYAMA is https://www.amayama.com/en/find?q=84140-42080 Not cheap, but then again, the switch to fit in the blank slot was a tenner. The indicator stalk that is already fitted is part 84140-42070, both parts are listed in the toyota parts EPC (which you can use online, AMAYAMA is basically a online catalogue that uses the toyota EPC. The switch under the trim? is that actually on the steering shroud or next to the OBD port?

a single photo showing where to pull the lining down, would be great, I have 2010.

So they fitted extra footwell lights on top of the warm white ones that are standard on Vellfire? that is annoying - the most painful thing I had so far , is the rearfog that was fitted - they drilled a hole and fitted fogswitch next to the stop/start engine button instead of using blank plate of which there was 4 available, and they fitted some 10pence piece sized LED light by drilled into the retroreflector in the bumper. The 12v supply for the fog they tapped into one of the headlight fuses in the engine bay, and the speedo convertor they tapped into the drivers side fusebox. I have ordered and waiting for a proper indicator stalk that has the extra rear fog selector position on it, I have fitted the relay in the correct place in the passenger side fuse box, and the fuse is already in place on the drivers side - the fog indicator light is already in the dash console. The actual connector for the fog lights themselves is located attached to the rear rightmost sonar sensor, you can see it by removing the rear driver light cluster. I bought fog lights that replace the reflectors, and will add new reflectors (for MOT) to the mudguards

that sucks - this one does seem well fitted - I have not seen any butchered trim near it.