Rojie

Please update us all when you are satisfied it all goes together well and works flawlessly.

I just tried my 'buttons'; one the driver's door and the one on the tailgate. Both depress slightly, and beep quietly. The driver's one does seem to activate some locking/unlocking mechanism audibly, but nothing seems to change. Whether there is a programmable function, or not, I don't know. Neither button opens the door or tailgate. Please bear in mind that I have the smart fob very close to the door/tailgate. There is a master door lock switch in the driver's door. Try toggling that to see if there is a difference. Sorry I can't be of further help.

Hello Christian, Welcome to the Forum. Not that I am aware of, and I would almost certainly know. However, some members may be organising their own local meets. If so, members are invited to announce their intensions, please.

I agree with Myron. Should be nothing to worry about unless the engine is caused to rev too high. According to the JPNZ Owners Manual, this is a feature , known as ECT, of the 3 litre V6 1MZ-FE engine and gearbox. It is also a feature of the 2AZ-FE.

Parasitic drain is a possibility. I had a mysterious issue in my early days of ownership. I have an earlier model with mood lighting. Unless you check in the dark, it is very difficult to ensure the mood lights have not been left on their lowest setting. What is the CCA rating of your new battery ? I had also replaced my battery to no avail, there was/is nothing wrong with my old one. I still have it as a spare and keep it fully charged. I may need it sometimes in winter after long periods of no use and low temperatures.

For the smart locking to work, that 3 button key will need to be near the door. As you walk away the doors should lock. As far as I am aware (see below), those small buttons you refer to are receivers; they are not push buttons (but I could be wrong on this as I have never tried to use them). There is a larger button on the lower edge of the tailgate, inside, which should function to close the hatch. I have the same keys as you do, but only use the 4 button as my daily key. Indeed, my daily set do not even have the four keys, or internals, present. I used the smart key for locking and unlocking. You do have the drivers door 'lock' switch enabled ? Of course, the 4 key unit is used in the ignition as it contains the immobiliser key.

Very nice. I did not realise Steve made custom fit carpets for rear kitchens though. Consequently, I have covered my carpets will beige industrial grade rubber. Very effective.

No, I don't. Mine only greets the driver, and warns when the sonic sensors operate (by which time you will be almost TOO close. I have the facelift and the sensing distances can be altered somewhat. Do you have the automatic Toll collecting system fitted ?

Note, this process needs a Master key, or states that it does. It is much easier, but by no means cheap, to get a competent auto-locksmith to it for you. If you do, you may end up with several keys that are all Masters !

Yes, the new key will need the immobilser activating. What key type did you buy, the earlier Gen1 is a different key to the facelift. Are you sure you bought the correct one? Auto-electrician is your best bet.

Did you replace your tyres like for like in size ?

Hello Les, Welcome to the Forum.

Headlight auto levelling light. Have you had your rear bushes changed recently ? Have you changed the wheel tyre combinations recently ? I assume you have HID lighting. Do your headlights adjust upwards when you first start the car in the dark ? You may have a ballast resistor failure.

You will likely receive many more messages and/or greetings !

I agree, it is more likely a battery issue. Battery voltage can be very misleading unless measured under load. It is amperes that count, and a less than fully charged battery will not delivery them. I have a Cetek smart charger (there are other brands) which will test your battery and alternator and charge it if needed. (Possibly not on Hybrids). Halfords and Kwik Fit will also test battery / alternator and provide a print out. The smart charger devices are about the same cost as a battery. They can (but may not) recover a 'spent' battery too. Mine did. They are, imho, a no lose investment as they can be used for years to ensure fully charged batteries.

Hello George, Welcome to the Forum.

You may need a new battery. Perhaps your alternator output needs testing.

I doubt it is electronic. Just a manual visual aid.

That is what Chris is implying. Leave the key closer to the start button, and see if that solves the problem.

I believe it is so you can 'see' where the front corner is when parking in very tight spaces.

Who knows ? Many Japanese owners add all sorts of accessories, mikes, switches, sensors, etc. Most of those gizmo input / output units are left in place. It may be a parking brake override switch, which overrides the circuit that prevents video and TV being watched whilst on the move.

You should be able to use a Noco, and there are other brands, without mishap. Just ENSURE the terminals are connected correctly, and the Noco remains fully charged at all times. Isolator switches are quite cheap, although you will probably need a garage to fit it for you. However, isolator switches do not resolve the issue causing the battery drain, but do provide a work around. I do not have a hybrid, but believe they do not have alternators; so that is not the problem.

Picasso will (try to) get you part numbers, provided your list is not excessively long.

Yes, as James states, torque for wheel nuts is specified in the owners manual. No other torque settings are; nor are there any instructions on maintenance other than fluids and tyre pressures. However, I would recommend the JPNZ Owners Manual.

Any MOT station should be able to adjust the aim for you if that is the problem.