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Open a Nationwide Flex plus current account. No need to transfer your existing account, just open it and pay the monthly fee of £12. Included with the account is full personal AA European breakdown cover with no age restriction on the vehicle, and Alphards are well within the size and weight limits. If you open it as a joint account you both get personal AA cover but still just £12 a month. It also has travel insurance and mobile phone insurance as well. If you are planning long stints abroad it might not be suitable. If you get quotes for European breakdown cover you may find it is vastly more expensive than the current account fee. I found I struggled to find a quote at a price I was willing to pay because mine is over 20 years old. If I recall correctly I would have had to pay more to get just 10 days breakdown cover to drive in the Republic of Ireland than the cost of the current account for a year.

To the top three modules is not so difficult to get access but is one more module underneath and you need to take inverter out of the car completely. My advice take some pictures step by step and it will be much easier to put everything back together, put all screws separately do not mixed up. For me it took one day no rushing. Also check other parts where needed cooling paste.

I’ll add my twopenn’orth… sitting in the sun in Merville-plage in Normandy at “aperitif” time a glass of local, olives, almonds, radishes from the market, smug grin left out of the pic!

Sorry, but we don't provide advice on Alpha Romeos !

Info you gave me was top notch guys, sorry not replied earlier. Mechanic fitted and all is now perfect. Thanks again Brian

Thank you very much for your replies. I've just put the original battery back in having been charging it - it was whilst charging it that I thought I'd killed the car with a different, incorrectly connected battery - and was about to lock up and leave it, probably for a long time, I imagined. Of course, I had one more go first, and on turning the key all the usual lights lit up and it started. I've no idea what's going on. It was completey dead on a good battery earlier. Anyway, I'm just glad it's alive again and will not be so careless again. Thanks again.

I couldn't find a definitive video or explanation on YouTube on how to change the interior light bulbs in the car. Apologies if this has been done to death but I couldn't find an explanation on getting to the bulbs. All the bulbs I found below were 12v8w w5w type bulbs. Sunshade mirror vanity lights. Left edge with a nail file or fine screwdriver to push the clip before pulling out the grey assembly with the bulb. Bulb is facing sideways. Pull out bulb and replace. This seemed to be the only one needing the grey assembly to be pulled out. Central lights between sunshades. Prise off the clear plastic starting from the top. You'll see the silhouette on the edge where the plastic holds onto the plastic. Bulb facing you. Pull out and replace. Light next to 2nd row and third row seats. Prise off the clear light reflector from the top using a fine screwdriver or flat spectacles screwdriver. Bulb faces you. Pull out and replace.

Initial engine start by turning the key uses the Hybrid motor in the gearbox. Subsequent engine starts uses the starter/generator driving the toothed serpentine belt on the front of the engine. Check the belt first, also the tensioner, water pump, aircon pump, idler pulley and crankshaft pulley which are all connected to the belt.

When the drain holes are blocked, the channels that the roof slides in overflow. This tool helps to clear any debris https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/317001966951

But surely I shouldn't be getting any water inside the roof lining, regardless of whether it's able to drain off to the wheel arch area?

There are small pipes which runs water away from those points, Get a pipe cleaner and clean then off, if you can see a blockage then under the wheel arch in the lining is the out push some compressed air through them or from the top to clear it out. sometimes they clog up.

Interesting, as that's how ours operates, the leisure battery is on constant charge via the solar, which in turn charges the main battery, which we never switch off, obviously you must have a slightly different system to ours. Good luck with solving the conundrum.

many many thanks for the super quick response. FB07 EGK

Welcome David there is a bracket behind there I broke mine ages ago and bought replacement from Toyota not expensive if you pm me your reg no. I will give you a part no. And a picture

Link to 20 series headunit/parking assist manual https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1E9cb8v6Ue/

Driving lights are additional front lights that (normally) are always on with the ignition. Nothing to do with roof liner (which is probably your mood lighting). If it is a parking aid, as opposed to cameras, I have no idea how it operates.

I doubt it will be there but if I were find one I would treat it like a firework. If your garden is big enough put it on a paving slab, barbecue or something and light it and stand back.

I have translated the Japanese text into Engligh for many of the wiring diagrams for the ANH1# models 2002 onwards. This was to help me debug the A/C on my 2004 Alphard ANH15. If anyone is stuck and needs something to help please get in touch and I may be able to help.

Most of the roof can be cleaned if you open the moonroof and work from inside the van.

Funny I was just looking for a battery myself. I've had a couple of close calls the last few weeks where it's taken a couple tries to crank. It's still got the Panasonic battery in it from Japan with the LifeWINK attached which indicates the battery health which was flashing red at me yesterday so I think it's time. The battery was fitted in 2021 thanks to previous installer writing the date on it. Gonna have to measure mine too as I'm getting conflicting info online. For example I'm reading that the Bosch S4 026 fits but when I've used part checkers on some sites it comes back as not compatible but on Tayna it comes up as a suitable option. Apparently Toyota recommend at least 550 CCA for the 3.5l so I'm just going to go with the highest CCA rating I can get my hands on with the cold season on its way. My shortlist is currently the VARTA Blue Dynamic E23, Bosch S4 026 or the Yuasa Silver YBX5068.

Thanks Nev! You are correct in that the 12V battery does not crank the engine in the hybrid. I did buy that multimeter and the voltage was 11.83V - so that could well be the issue. I ended up disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and all systems reset - fixing the problem in the process! I still need to replace the battery though, as the issue will no doubt return. Research suggests that if the voltage is below 12V there are likely to be problems. The following sums up my findings, with the help of AI (I know - don't believe everything AI tells you ): - Expected 12V Battery Voltage Levels Fully charged: Around 12.6–12.8V (engine off). Healthy but not fully charged: About 12.3–12.5V. Low/weak: Below 12.0V often indicates a discharged or failing battery. Engine running (charging): 13.8–14.5V typically, as the hybrid system charges the 12V battery. At 11.83V, the battery is in the discharged/weak category. Even if it still powers accessories, hybrid vehicles like the Alphard rely heavily on the 12V battery for critical tasks such as: Booting the hybrid control computer Activating relays and contactors that connect the high-voltage system Powering sensors and ECUs before the hybrid system starts charging If the 12V battery voltage drops too low during startup or under load, the hybrid system may fail to initialize correctly, resulting in a "Check Hybrid System" warning. Cheers, Steve

Hi Stephen! I don't have a Hybrid, but I would suggest also buying a (12v car) battery tester, relatively cheap kit nowadays, to give an indication of the amp rating capacity, as voltage does not necessarily give the whole picture. Yes it needs good voltage, for the communication side, but it's "amps that cranks". Actually though, from reading on this forum, I believe it isn't the 12v battery that cranks the engine!!! I'll hand over to those who know on that one!! Cheers, Nev

You need to purchase a generic/Toyota compatible box from somewhere like AliExpress. You will need one that has an rca output. The box will usually come with either an external controller or a touchscreen interface board. I opened the screen and used a ribbon cable to connect to the touchscreen that has a switch to select of the touchscreen settings signal to the carplay box, or the official headunit. I interrupted the parking brake signal to the headunit so that the aux video remains on when car is in motion.

I have a 2006 Alphard & I adjusted my headlights for Europe. There's some screws & bolts on the back of the assembly as I remember. These adjust the beam up & down & right to left. Can't remember which ones do which - you'll just have to play around with them.

What switch is fitted in the position where the folding mirror switch should be? Please post photo of the switches either side of the steering wheel. It's possible, a previous owner in Japan moved the physical switch behind the dash panel in order to free up the slot for something else. The fact your mirrors appear to have motors means there should be the wiring and therefore the switch in place. There are 3 mirror types. One is completely manual ( only has control for adjusting glass) One has fold and unfold via motor and a rocker switch. One has motor and rocker switch with an additional auto position. It's possible you have the second option, and an aftermarket module that uses the central locking signal to logic switch between the open/close states. To determine if you have the 2nd or 3rd option, check if you have auto tilt mirrors. With vehicle in reverse gear, flip the mirror adjust button ( the left right toggle between the center neutral position and either left or right. In the center position the mirror should be as normal, when moved to the left or right, the mirror will automatically adjust so the mirror tilt down to show the road.

HI. I have just joined the Club although have had a 2002 Alphard for about 4 years. Been great car so far and hopefully will continue. I live in Essex, near Colchester. I have recently been considering a change of vehicle but after having driven a variety of newish works cars recently, every time I get back in the Alphard it just feels: 'ah... home.' Nothing seems to compare in terms of quality, comfort, drivability (if that is a word), so I won't be changing except, perhaps to a later hybrid model - more research needed there, I think. so far, I have not had to do anything but recently had a few consumables such as brakes, tyres, etc.. not bad for a 23 year machine. I do have a few minor jobs that need doing which are beyond my very limited mechanical knowledge so wondered if there are any Aphard specialists in the Essex, Suffolk or Norfolk areas? Look forward to being part of the club and hopefully having a good char or meet up from time to time

So I was clearing out my toolshed the other day and found my tin of PTFE lubricating spray and decided to try spraying the rails of the read curtain track which I did and wiped the excess off, manually moved the curtains back and forth then tried electrically closing them, the spray worked a treat, now opening and closing like they used to. I then did the same for the side curtains which work better than they did although they weren’t really sticking before.

Nice picasso, i shall keep this one.

It would be worth getting Toyota Techstream on a laptop as I suspect the code readers won't work with early hybrids. The new Topdon reader is said to work on most Alphards but hybrids only from 2013. There is an onboard self test accessed via the head unit. I found it online to check why my air con was faulty but can't remember the details. However there are Youtubes on the subject. The link below shows how to get into the menu, you will likely need Google translate. Not sure if this will help but worth having a play around.

Thanks for this info. After a bit of research, it turns out they were the cheapest as well as being confident its the correct one.

One alternative is to source some rear deflectors that double-up as fog lights - under £20 on eBay from what I remember

Hello Gary, Welcome to the Forum from afar.

google gemini says: Based on my search, there is no official firmware update from Pioneer to change the language of the AVIC-ZH0009CS head unit to English. This model was designed and sold exclusively for the Japanese market. While there are some unofficial methods discussed on forums for changing the language on similar models, these are not guaranteed to work and come with risks, including potentially rendering the device unusable. These methods often involve replacing language files on the system and may only result in a partial translation. A practical alternative is to use a real-time translation app on your smartphone, like Google Lens, to translate the menus on the head unit's screen.

Agreed, a slight movement in an ‘eye’ connector stopped mine. Just moving it slightly was enough to get a start.

Yes - I discovered the window issue yesterday and found a helpful video:

my new ones are 17.1 mm diameter hope that helps Mick

Thanks - so as with quite a lot of things in life what I thought was a simple thing turned out to be more complex to sort out. In the end I have got upgraded springs and they do make a difference. The hybrid version is trickier to get springs and spacers to fit, as space is more limited it seems..Also the initial springs I was sent were 20 mm too short. After re-measuring JDM have sourced and sent springs that are the correct length. I would recommend these. From the project I do have some springs and spacers that are now surplus to requirements if anyone is interested.

If you look on aliexpress (amongst others) you will find plenty of light options. It depends on what you want to achieve. There are ones that stick and others that have a tab to get inserted into the gaps in the trim.

Welcome, if you need info or help just let us know.

We have the complete list of wiring diagrams for up to the 2008 series Alphard both models. Same wiring on both the hybrid and non hybrid. SRS.pdf Smart Entry and Start System Wireless Door Control lock.pdf Smart Entry and Start System Steering Lock.pdf Smart Entry and Start System push start button.pdf Smart Entry and Start System - Immobiliser.pdf Smart Entry and Start System.pdf Seat Belt Warning.pdf Rear number 1 seat.pdf Front Passengers seat.pdf Drivers Power Seat.pdf Power outlet.pdf Internal Lighting.pdf Illumination.pdf Combination Meter.pdf Backup Light.pdf AC.pdf Door Control Wiring.pdf Parking Assist.pdf sound system.pdf

An alternator is another name for an AC generator. When applied to cars, what most people are talking about is the small generator ultimately responsible for providing the 12V required to charge the battery and power the 12V systems. The Alphard hybrid does have an alternator, but it is not powering the 12V system. It is actually a starter/generator that is used to start the engine under certain conditions, and I believe it acts as a generator when needed to help charge the hybrid battery at tickover.

Hybrid Battery Repair in Glasgow: https://hybridbatteryrepair.co.uk/contact/ His name is Fraser, and he is excellent. He knows the Alphard hybrid battery system very well. I used him a couple of years ago to replace my cells with upgraded ones. He has a very detailed diagnostic program, and he is very experienced with Alphards specifically. Best of all, I found him to be a very genuine, honest and trustworthy man. I think the quote above of £1750 is probably accurate, as I paid £1600 a couple of years ago. However, he will first run his diagnostics and then let you know his assessment and what your options are. I hope this helps to have an opinion from someone here in Scotland who has used him.

Hi, we have just purchased a recently imported 2012 Toyota Vellfire Gen 2 converted by Mildown Campers. So far enjoying the vehicle. Drives well and really smooth ride given base vehicle now 12 years old. We have had many UK Toyotas and hope this will prove as reliable as them. Anyway sure we will have many questions as we go. Regards

Well, WOW, I just experimented more with that adjustment!!! About 380mm further back than standard!!! 😃😀 But no leg room for rear passengers. The 2 lights in the tailgate are a kit from Aliexpress.com , a cracking kit, no soldering or wiring skills, they have male/female plugs at the existing boot light and keeps that rather pathetic lamp. Comes with the wiring harness from one end to the other, split with a connector just inside the tailgate above where the wiring passes in.

Hi Pete, Looks straightforward to me. I've just ordered the parts as I have a rattle as well and I think it's the damper. Apparently if you don't sort it timely it can cause a more significant failure with the column. TC's anything goes has a tutorial on Youtube. I plan to follow it and replace mine in a week or so. Will report back when I do.

OK, I have scanned and translated pages 3-172 to 3-182 thats 11 pages as png images each about 1M size. Printing is not a very good way to use the diagrams, best to look on screen so you can easily zoom is as the print size is very small. You can get the pictures at : https://photos.app.goo.gl/ghabZHui6bDmqaAdA I will remove them in a week or so. Good luck David

In our 3rd year of Alphard ownership so tried a few insurance companies for quotes. 1st year was Sky then found Advance Insurance in Chippenham (after Sky wanted a huge premium hike & no claim to justify it). Last Sept. wife got bashed up the rear (bumper & tailgate damage no rear lights broken) The other party's Admiral Insurance admitted immediate liability they took the car then said it could not be repaired. I went back to Advance who put me in touch with Ageas our actual insurer. Ageas sorted out all problems admirably. This year's renewal had no price hike. Throughout the claim/repair process of 2+ months we were driving a Htundai I800 at no cost to ourselves. Our Alphard is now (very nearly) as good as it was before the accident. Advance & Ageas have been brilliant so I recommend them wholeheartedly, Admiral I have concerns about - they are insuring peoples Alphard & apparently a minor accident would result in them wanting to scrap the vehicle! this was an option we were never going to accept