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One thing I missed when driving my gen 1 Alphard is the indicator lane change 3 flash that is in many newer vehicles these days, and I got so used to using it that when driving my Alphard I often forget and just flick the indicator to change lane and, of course, I get one flash. I'd seen someone was selling an alternative direct replacement flasher relay for upwards of £50 that was modified to give the 3 flash, but that price was too much for me to just avoid holding the indicator down a bit longer. A bit of research turned up a potential alternative for less than £10 on eBay. It didn't specifically mention the lane change function as it seemed to be more aimed at people retro-fitting LED indicator bulbs and messing up the flashing rate, but I had a suspicion so I took a punt and bought it. The original Toyota item and the replacement are shown below. Notice the knob for adjusting the flash rate, and poorly translated "about dodges three times" on the replacement relay. Fitting it was easy enough. Simply pull out the coin drawer thingy just above the bonnet and fuel flap release levers on the driver side of the dash and look in. The relay is fairly obvious. The relay put up a fight and was reluctant to release, but a bit of jiggling and a little bit of leverage from a screwdriver got it out. This photo shows the new one fitted. I turned the hazards on and the flash rate was very fast, but with a quick twiddle of the knob on the relay I had the flash rate back to where it should be. Then the moment of truth - ignition on and flicked the indicator stalk. Three flashes and stop 👍. £10 and 10 minutes work. Bargain! This is the one I bought on eBay, but there appears to be loads of sellers as the original Toyota relay was used on many different models, as you could imagine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386806258020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xfg_a3ycs9s&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ql8_keC9RJe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY3 points
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Renewed with Adrian Flux a couple of weeks ago. £40 less than my first year (last year) That was a surprise! Graham3 points
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Hi. I have put a couple of posts on here a while ago. I had a towbar fitted which cost about £400 (an Alphard needs something a bit bespoke which my fitter ordered from somewhere in Sheffield). I then bought a secondhand Thule 2 bikerack off ebay. It cost £80. It isn't the tilt type, but works very well, and I just accept I can't open the tailgate without taking the bikes off - I don't need to remove the carrier itself, since it has a foldable frame. The bike rack also doubles as a luggage carrier. Without the bikes on, I can attach a large Fiamma luggage bag which fits a huge amount of stuff. £40 off ebay.3 points
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Just a thought, but have you tried cleaning up the inside of the battery terminal clamps, and wherever the battery negative lead connects to the body? They could be oxidized and causing a volt drop when trying to provide cranking current. Putting the starter pack on could bypass where the problem connection is, and hence why you get an instant start.2 points
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I have just had my first service at my local garage. We have been with them for several decades and I was interested to hear their opinion on our campervan conversion. I was pleasantly surprised to get the positive reactions I did. The headlamp discolouring is being dealt with with advice from yourselves on this forum and also local advice. I am now aware why the service (oil change in particular} 6k-7k intervals is important. Quote "the sump is small for the engine size Graham, only 4 litres of oil. Change it and the filter every 6k or so" unquote. Thanks for your help here everyone. Kind regards Graham2 points
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Depends on what you buy. They usually come with one fuse each and you use the original fuse in the main socket. Obviously you can put whatever fuses you like in but you don't want a higher fuse rating than the original, so pairs of the same or the spur being on a lower rated fuse would be best. When choosing which fuse socket to use you need to find out what it currently powers and / or do a test to find out whether its a permanent feed, comes one with the ignition or is only on when something happens, say headlights being on.2 points
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Absolutely superb job you're doing there, especially with the outdoor aspect!!2 points
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Day 17 2 Hours Felt like big progress today. I've been dreading using silicon gasket but think it went pretty well. Started the day with a failed attempt to remove the exhaust bracket bolt with my new induction heating tool. Looks like I'll need to weld the bracket back together. I needed to jack the engine up quite high to get the timing chain cover above the power steering pipe. I did a few test runs to make sure I could get the cover onto the engine without ruining the gasket. I installed the water pump first but then removed it as I needed the extra space. It says to install the cover 3 min after applying the sealant. It took a bit of study and preparation to get my head around all the different sealant widths. Cover on and all bolts torqued to spec. Timing chain tensioner and water pump next I think.2 points
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Well done for completing your mammoth project, now go and enjoy driving1 point
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Hi everyone. I installed android player to my car since 2022. Before this I never bother about the extra function using canbus box because my car didn't come with 18 unit speaker. Last year I make a study about the function of canbus and make some modification. 1) I bought the socket for meter 40pin. This socket connect to canbus box and HU. Original for other car. 2) I change the connection point to 13&14 follow the diagram 3) then I bought canbus Toyota from raise. 4) after that setting the HU You can get information like - parking trajectory - door information - parking radar - outdoor temperature - millage odometer - average consumption1 point
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Hi Denis, Yes I found one. Give 'northstar specialist vehicle conversions ltd' a call or email. I think they are based in Scotland and do camper conversions meaning they must take a lot of regular seats out. I think it cost me around £351 point
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My reading of it says Yes - 360 UKP. Its classified as 'PLG (Private/Light Goods)' rather than Light Goods, no sign of Euro there either so those tables can be ruled out, as can motorcycles and tricycles, and I suspect that arguing that it's a car won't go very far so the only table that fits is the one you have there for the next tax year. What makes me chuckle a little is that our other car, a Hyundai Kona Electric, is currently at 0 UKP (for one more day - so I have just renewed that) but next year will be 10 UKP - though it will be increasing after that. I believe I am bringing some balance to the universe by being at opposite ends of the road tax spectrum (I can't afford a Veyron etc. so I am being realistic about the width of the spectrum). 2025-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf 2024-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf1 point
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After struggling to get my front lambda sensor out it came out with less than a full turn all told. It's difficult to see but the thread on the old one is essentially stripped and the new sensor can't get started on the thread in the exhaust manifold. I am thinking of getting a tap to cut out a decent thread but I'm not sure what size to go for - though my micrometer says 18mm on the outside (which got me to thinking that maybe it's the same size as a spark plug) so i have ordered M14, M16 and M18 intermediate taps and see which fits. Does anyone know what tap size I would need to cut the correct thread? I will give it another go this morning after changing the fuel filter (fun!) and I might pick up an 18mm spark plug to see if they can at least make a start on the knackered thread I currently have in my exhaust manifold, a replacement of which would be £1000. Hopefully someone will have an idea.1 point
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Great song, but I digress already! Had the new to me experience yesterday of bringing up the low fuel light. I blame the incident on me not having had a decent drive in the old bus due to other issues. Off I went with my £20 voucher for butcher meat from a known good butcher in the wilds of West Stirlingshire. After a few miles I realised tank was rather low but I knew where the only station for miles was so pressed on. Imagine my delight to find it closed for major refurb. I'm 13 miles from my nearest station so a very light footed journey commenced. 10 miles later low fuel light comes on, totally new experience for me in van. So, I make it to station & she takes 61 ltrs, another 1st, but having now found out tank capacity is 70 ltrs I am brimming with knowledge. Not that I’m going to make it a habit but I reckon a 2.4 petrol should give you 40-50 miles after low fuel lamp comes on.1 point
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Please update us all when you are satisfied it all goes together well and works flawlessly.1 point
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So during the week I got around to fitting the cigarette socket. I bought a cigarette socket extension and cut the plug off, wired into the unused heated seats fuse with a 15a fuse tap then ran the cable under the carpet after removing the plastic kick guards from both left hand side doors. I then used strong double sided tape to secure it next to the cubby hole at the left rear hidden under the rear seat. Works a treat, I may look into a more permanent fitting later on if I want to try routing the cable over the inside of the wheelarch. I also connected the USB thingy taking a fused feed from the factory cigarette socket and running the cable under the carpet, sticking the module to the front of the centre console at floor level. This meant no drilling of holes anywhere to feel cables through. Pics to follow if anyone is interested.1 point
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Brilliant thanks for doing that. more of this needed from us all. thanks1 point
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I got a 'J1332091' from Autodoc - this one I think: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/herthbuss-jakoparts/1376214 it seemed to match the original that I got out - though I suspect that the previous one was also a clone of some sort as I couldn't find any sign of a manufacturer on it.1 point
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For less than £40 , you can get a vci adaptor and copy of techstream, and program a blank key yourself1 point
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No respray it's just a rare colour for an Alphard, same colour code on some other Toyota's (RAV4 etc)1 point
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Hi crazymac680 , brilliant job I must say unfortunately I am going to have to tackle the same job on my daughters alpha 2.4l 2006, I have worked on cars alot and feel confident on the job a bit concerned on the amount of siezed bolts you had to deal with on you job. I am just wondering if you have managed to get a workshop manual as I find it difficult to find one mainly for all the torque settings. Kind regards, Bob.1 point
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Any MOT station should be able to adjust the aim for you if that is the problem.1 point
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Hi, the numbers I used are: Front Sensor[font of engine on heat shield R/H--89465. After cat.[next to mounting bracket]- 89465. Check the length of the wiring. When I received the new sensor the cables were too short.A set of longer wires are available with heat shrink joiners.1 point
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I am not sure about the Gen 1, but very confident that Theatre System was available on the Gen 1 facelift. It was an option though, so not all vehicles have it.1 point
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Joseph, at Topsham Car Sales, has been in the importation business for many years.1 point
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What age is it and does it have the theatre sound system? I have 10 series wiring diagrams1 point
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Steps to remove the head unit is 1.Remove trim surrounding the t.v unit 2.remove the 4 shiny bolts and and lower t.v unit down. 3. Locate and bridge brown connector as stated in the video. You can do this by using spare wires and just bridge them from the plug (female) side and ensure it is secured. 4.test and see if they work 5. Out everything back and you should be sweet.1 point
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your engine only takes 5 litres you need to ask garage how many liters they put in i recon they put at least 6 litres or even more which seems a very silly thing for your garage to do fingers crossed your ok did your engine smoke by any chance as this would be a sign of burning oil1 point
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kseal can block other parts of the heating system, always best to find where the leak is. If there is plenty of coolant in the rad, and you can see it moving when cold with the cap off, then it could be blocked in the heater matrix. You need to warm it up then check the small hoses, feed/return, that are connected to the matrix near the bulkhead, if they are both warm then the valve is working, and you have flow through the matrix, if not then the valve is not working or blocked. If you have flow through then the other cause could be the air flap control disc is faulty, a known fault, it is situated behind the dash low down, above and to the left of the parking brake, a disc from an Avensis control will fit, but both units need stripping down and the discs swopping1 point
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Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!1 point
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My hybrid is the same amount as a V6 - £345 at today's prices.1 point
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Out of interest, Just got a quote from Adrian Flux. £621.93 (with £750 excess). Alphard 2013 240S petrol We are both retired, (I’m in my 70’s). Full NCB.1 point
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Well - colour me surprised. I started up my Alphard on my drive (which slopes slightly) at dusk and was a little surprised to see two lights not just come on, but then move themselves up on the car parked opposite, they may then have moved down a bit. When I got back indoors I did a quick search and it looks like the Alphard has self-levelling headlights! who knew? I have been trying to fit the mirror auto open / close device and am almost there but I seem to have blown a fuse as the radio / display screen doesn't work, or the GPS HUD (and maybe some other stuff). Still tomorrow is another day, I wonder what surprises the Alphard has in store 🙂1 point
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Have you tried Mark Richards (Jap Cover) ? It will be a case of shopping around. Also, add a second driver like a spouse or sibling who has full licence and access to another car. I have seen massive drops in price by adding another driver.1 point
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OK, I have scanned and translated pages 3-172 to 3-182 thats 11 pages as png images each about 1M size. Printing is not a very good way to use the diagrams, best to look on screen so you can easily zoom is as the print size is very small. You can get the pictures at : https://photos.app.goo.gl/ghabZHui6bDmqaAdA I will remove them in a week or so. Good luck David1 point
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Challenge is what's good in Japan and what's good here (given the relative climate differences) it's hard to say. 5w30 is just a bit heavier weight and you'll likely trade the tiniest bit of fuel economy for better high temp protection (I imagine a heavier weight oil probably lubricates better when cold too). What is important is to try to not mix grades, as they don't mix well together. So if it already has 0w20, use 0w20 to top up etc. Also if you put the Alphard (2az 2.4 engine at least) into Opie Oils every option that comes back is 5w30. Certainly it won't do any harm and again might offer a bit better protection for our climate for a slight trade off in MPG.1 point
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You might do already chap, but if not definitely give 99ron a go. Found my 2.4 drives quite a bit better on it, top end performance when revved is definitely improved too. Probably all the better on yours now!! 👍1 point
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You don't have to answer those. There is no EU compliant emissions testing, these are not Type approved vehicles. I just gave them supporting documentation for proof of age, being the export Japanese export certificate, and an MOT certificate which was done under the chassis number. Included a cheque for the registration fee and 12 months tax. And 2 weeks later a V5C came though the post! It was amazingly easy to be fair! This is how I filled out my form.... And I sent it with all these docs.... And I got a V5C back like this!1 point
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Hi, have you considered these vehicles were made to carry up to 8 people (8 x 180 = 1440lbs) plus luggage as well as the seating which is very heavy. Personally I don't think you'll need uprated springs.1 point
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There are 2 email addresses you need to contact. ap-overseas@mail.toyota.co.jp cr@toyota.co.uk Make sure you add both emails by cc-ing one of them. No point contacting Toyota GB directly, these emails will work. This order needs to come from Toyota Japan which will hit Toyota Europe, Toyota Europe then instruct Toyota GB, who then instruct a dealer to contact you with an appointment. You will get a call by Toyota GB before it goes to the dealer though. The dealer needs to receive instructions booklet on how to change the airbag etc.1 point
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Contact Toyota, Take a screen shot of your outstanding recalls and get them to ask Japan to authorise the work in the UK.1 point
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Update I Contacted Toyota GB with an email explaining my car was due for a recall in Japan, showing them the recall page and also providing screenshots of the page that had been translated. Next day I received a call from Toyota customer services who took more details from me and then passed in on the legal and compliance dept. He did say it can take up to 12 weeks, but could be sooner. It is best to be patient. I will keep an update on how it goes.1 point