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Fitting a tow bar to a Toyota Alphard MNH10 (3.0L V6, 2002–2008) in the UK involves a specific legal procedure that you must address before picking up a wrench. Because these are "grey imports," standard UK towing laws apply differently than for UK-market cars. 1. The Legal Hurdle: VIN Plate & Towing WeightsMost imported Alphards do not have a Gross Train Weight (GTW) stamped on their VIN plate. The Risk: If your VIN plate does not show a GTW (the second biggest number on the plate), your legal towing limit is 0 kg. Towing a trailer in this state can void your insurance and is illegal. The Fix: You must get the vehicle "replated." A specialist engineering firm will calculate the safe capacity and issue a new, legal VIN sticker to stick over the old one. Recommended Specialist: SVTech (UK-based) is the standard go-to for this. Estimated Cost: Approx £150 – £170. Action: Check your VIN plate (passenger door pillar or under the bonnet). If the GTW field is blank, contact SVTech before towing. 2. Weight Limits & SpecificationsOnce legally replated, the 3.0L V6 MNH10 typically has these limits (using an online calculator): Towing Capacity (Braked): 1,600 kg – 1,800 kg (Dependent on the replating certificate). Towing Capacity (Unbraked): 750 kg. Nose Weight (Vertical Load): 75 kg. Note: The rear suspension is soft. If you tow near the limit, the rear will sag. Many owners fit "assister springs" (e.g., from Grayston) inside the rear coil springs to stiffen the ride. Kerb Weight: ~1,900 – 2,000 kg. 3. Mechanical Fitting ProcedureTime: 2–3 hours | Difficulty: Moderate DIY Key Note: The tow bar usually replaces the rear crash beam. You will remove the crash beam and not refit it. Tools: Socket set (10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm) + Extension bars. Torque Wrench (essential). Jigsaw or Padsaw (for bumper cut). Drill with 12.5mm metal bit. Step-by-Step: Preparation: Lower and remove the spare wheel to clear the work area. Exhaust: Detach the rear exhaust rubber hangers. You don't need to remove the exhaust, just lower it enough to work above it. Remove Towing Eye: Remove the factory towing eye (usually held by 4 bolts) from the chassis rail. This will not be refitted. Chassis Access: The mounting points are pre-drilled in the chassis rails but may be covered by tape or underseal. Drilling: Some kits (like Tow-Trust) require you to drill through the outer face of the chassis rail, using the existing inner holes as a guide. Insert Spacers: Crucial Step. You must insert the metal spacer tubes into the chassis rails before bolting. If you forget these, tightening the bolts will crush the box-section of the chassis, causing structural damage. Mounting: Lift the tow bar crossbeam into place (ideally a 2-person lift). Insert bolts loosely. Bumper Cut: Most MNH10 tow bars require a cut on the underside of the bumper (non-visible from standing). Typical Dimensions: 90mm wide x 50mm deep. (Check your specific kit's manual to be sure). Tightening: Torque the bolts to the manufacturer's spec. If not specified, standard ISO ratings for M12 bolts are: Coarse Pitch (Standard): ~102 Nm Fine Pitch: ~111 Nm Reassembly: Raise the exhaust back onto its hangers. Winch the spare wheel back up (check it doesn't foul the new tow bar structure). 4. Electrical Wiring (The "Bypass" Requirement)The MNH10 uses an analogue lighting system, but it is sensitive. You cannot simply scotch-lock wires directly to the bulb holders without a relay, or you risk blowing the lighting control module. Required Kit: A "7-Way Universal Bypass Relay" wiring kit. Connection Point: The best access is behind the Nearside (Left) Rear interior trim panel. You will often find a Blue and White connector block here which carries the rear lighting feeds. Wiring Colors (Guide Only - Always Test with Multimeter): Earth: White/Black Stop: Green/White Tail: Green Indicator (Left): Green/Black Indicator (Right): Green/Yellow Tip: Use a multimeter or 12V test light to confirm these before cutting. Power Feed: You will need to run a dedicated 12V power feed from the battery (front) to the bypass relay (rear), fused near the battery. 5. Critical Consideration: Transmission CoolerThe 3.0L V6 (1MZ-FE engine) is paired with a specific automatic gearbox. The Risk: The radiator cools both the engine and the gearbox fluid. When towing, the gearbox fluid gets incredibly hot. The stock cooler is often insufficient for towing >750kg, leading to gearbox failure. The Fix: Fit an external Transmission Oil Cooler. This is a small radiator (approx £50-£80) that sits in front of your A/C condenser. It is cheap insurance against a £2,000 gearbox rebuild. Summary Checklist for UK OwnersCheck VIN: Is GTW stamped? If No -> Contact SVTech. Buy: Tow bar (e.g., Tow-Trust or PCT) + Universal Bypass Wiring Kit + Transmission Cooler. Install: Remember the chassis spacers and the torque settings (100Nm+). Test: Verify lights and ensure the spare wheel is secure. Oil Cooler For the Toyota Alphard 3.0L V6 (MNH10), you specifically need an Auxiliary Air-to-Oil Transmission Cooler. Do not buy a "standard replacement" transmission cooler from a general parts site (like AutoDoc or Euro Car Parts). Those are usually the stock water-cooled units that fit inside the radiator—they are what you already have, and they are not sufficient for towing. You need an external radiator kit that sits in front of your air conditioning condenser to provide extra cooling. 1. Recommended Kit & SpecificationFor the Alphard V6 towing up to 1,600kg, the "Gold Standard" specification is: Brand: Mocal (highly reliable, UK standard) or Setrab. Size: 13-Row or 16-Row (13-row is standard, 16-row is better for heavy caravans). Width: 235mm (Standard width, fits easily behind the Alphard grille). Hose Size: Typically 10mm (3/8") for Toyota transmission lines (check this on your van before ordering). 2. Where to Buy in the UKOption A: The Specialist (Best Quality)These suppliers sell complete "Universal" kits that include the cooler, hoses, mounting brackets, and clamps. Demon Tweeks (Wrexham / Online): Look for "Mocal Universal Oil Cooler Kit". They are very helpful on the phone if you are unsure about fittings. Merlin Motorsport (Castle Combe): A dedicated race/performance shop. They stock Mocal and Setrab and sell the hose by the meter if you need extra length. Think Automotive (Isleworth): They are the actual manufacturers/distributors of Mocal products in the UK. If you call them and say "I need a transmission cooler kit for a 3.0L Toyota," they can build a kit with the exact right hose barbs. Option B: Budget / General (eBay & Amazon)You can find "Universal Transmission Cooler Kits" for £40–£60. Search for: "Universal Transmission Oil Cooler Kit 10mm". Brands: Hayden or Mishimoto are decent mid-range options. Warning: Avoid the very cheapest unbranded kits (<£30); the hoses are often low quality and can burst under pressure, which would destroy your gearbox in seconds. 3. What to Order (The Shopping List)If you are buying the parts individually, you need: The Cooler: 13-row or 16-row Mocal oil cooler. Fitting Kit: 4x Mounting brackets (often plastic ties that go through the radiator fins, or metal brackets). Hose: 2 meters of high-pressure transmission oil hose (10mm / 3/8" internal diameter). Joiners: You do not need complex screw fittings. You need barbed joiners to splice into the existing rubber hoses coming from the gearbox. 4. Installation TipThe Alphard V6 gearbox lines exit the gearbox and go into the bottom of the main water radiator. Correct Flow: You should plumb the new cooler in series after the main radiator. Route: Gearbox -> Main Radiator -> New Cooler -> Back to Gearbox. Why: This uses the water radiator to get the fluid up to temp quickly, and then the new air cooler sheds the excess heat before the fluid returns to the delicate gearbox mechanics. Correct Flow Positions & Tests For the Toyota Alphard MNH10 (V6), the transmission cooler lines are not consistently colour-coded or stamped "In/Out". Because guessing incorrectly can overheat your gearbox, you must confirm the flow direction physically. The only 100% safe way to identify the return line is the "Bucket Test". 1. The "Bucket Test" (Fail-Safe Method)You need to intercept the fluid after it leaves the main radiator but before it goes back to the gearbox. Locate the Hoses: Find the two rubber hoses connecting the gearbox to the bottom of the main radiator. Disconnect One: Disconnect one of these hoses at the radiator end. Prepare: Place the open end of the rubber hose into an empty bucket. Place a clear plastic tube (or just a finger/rag) over the open metal nozzle on the radiator to catch any fluid. The Test: Have a helper start the engine and immediately turn it off (run for 2–3 seconds max). Identify the Flow: Option A: If fluid spurts out of the Radiator Nozzle, that nozzle is the Feed (coming from the gearbox). The hose you are holding is the Return line. (This is the hose you want). Option B: If fluid spurts out of the Rubber Hose, that hose is the Feed from the gearbox. The radiator nozzle is the Return. Reconnect this hose and test the other one to be sure. 2. How to Plumb the New CoolerTo get the maximum cooling for towing, you should install the new cooler in Series (after the radiator). Correct Flow: Gearbox -> Main Radiator -> New Auxiliary Cooler -> Gearbox Why: The main radiator helps warm the fluid up quickly in winter, and the new cooler sheds the excess heat generated by towing before the fluid returns to the sensitive gearbox mechanics. Connection Steps: Identify the Return Hose using the test above (the one that carries fluid back to the gearbox). Disconnect this hose from the radiator. Connect the Radiator Output (where you just pulled the hose off) to the New Cooler Inlet. Connect the New Cooler Outlet to the original Return Hose (which goes back to the gearbox). 3. Parts ConfirmationHose Diameter: The MNH10 uses 10mm (3/8") internal diameter transmission hose. Clamps: Use proper fuel injection clamps (solid band), not the cheap worm-drive jubilee clips which can bite into the rubber and leak. Top Up: Installing a cooler adds volume to the system. You will likely need to add 0.5L – 1.0L of Toyota Type T-IV fluid (or equivalent JWS 3309 spec). Check the dipstick with the engine running and warm after installation.

Got away this weekend for the first time in myself converted budget 2004 4wd v6 alphie. Spent less than 1500 aud fitting ot out. Flipped the passenger seat, installed a bed at the height of the rear seat side rails (32cm of clearance underneath) which hinges up into a forward or a rearward facing sofa (hooked up to what used to be the grab rails) 200ah lithium, 2k inverter, semi flexible roof solar, microwave, fridge, toilet, induction cooker. Pretty happy so far. Van has 85,000km. Only complaint is the fuel economy. Mine is a 4 speed and I gather the 5-speed Auto would have been more economical. But the whole van including the build has cost me 11k Australian, which is 6500 pounds. The 107 kph cruise control maximum is potentially annoying on the freeway but no freeway between my house and the beach 😊 I have posted previously about rotating the passenger seat without a swivel. I think this is the best way to do it. Because every time I sit in it I think if it was four centimeters higher I wouldn't be able to in either direction. It's so easy to just undo the four 14 millimeter bolts holding in the passenger seat and flip it around. You just need to drill two rivnuts into the seat base to secure the front tabs into what is now the rear of the seat base. Maybe it takes 2 minutes but I think two minutes every time you need to flip the seat might be better than an extra inch and a half of seat height in both directions just for the convenience of a swivel. Hoping this is the first of many weekend getaways in the Alfie 😊

It seems the AFS is actually working. I never take notice when the lights come on but last night when I started the car I made a point of looking where the light points to when switched on and I could see the beam moving up and down as it seemed to calibrate itself. When driving along a country lane I tried to see if any movement laterally when going around a bend and I think there was a little, very subtle movement I think so it does seem to be working after all. I did find something online suggesting that in the first 15 mins of starting the engine whilst stationary one could as a test turn the steering wheel side to side and should see sideways movement but I haven’t done this but may do to satisfy my curiosity.

Prime selection 2 is just marketing gibberish for some coloured trim, upholstery or tinted headlights. The 240s part is what counts, so it's a standard model. Models for the 240 are 240x basic model 240s standard 240g high spec I would say at this point (2025) this couldn't really be more than £10k, unless it's been really well looked after and had something to make it stand out from the others, at this point adding a few k and buying a 30 series is realistic. Consider i bought a 350G for £12k in 2021

For any Alphard owners in Glasgow and central Scotland I can highly recommend C and C exhausts. Based at Hillington industrial area ,Campbell is extremely fair cost wise and will tell you honestly the condition of the current exhaust system without trying to sell a complete system if not needed.

Hi Doss, Where are you based? We bought ours from Vine Place, Wingate, County Durham. They are on the usual social media channels and website. Thoroughly recommend them, if not too far from you.

Algys Autos appear to import several brands. Whilst this is no bad thing; you may wish to focus on an importer that specialises in Alphard / Vellfires. Many Importers re not able to offer maintenance facilities; so you need to ensure that you know where you will get your vehicle serviced. Do NOT assume the importer has those facilities and/or skills, or that your local Toyota dealer will work on your machine.

never heard of an alphard flywheel going. usually happens on manual cars and especially manual diesel cars from poor driving habits and quick shifting to save fuel.

hard to believe rac told you it was flywheel problem starter motor engages the flywheel starter motors stick so when he freed the the engine manually he un stuck the starter motor here is the oe no. for the starter motor 2810028051 here is a ebay link less than £90 for a new starter motor https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142543994198?_skw=2810028051&itmmeta=01K9Y8YSWSA3F3RR1ZYNGGNAXB&hash=item213048bd56:g:b1QAAOSwrAtjuAcx&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cJMSmCYzng1IWECYG0qmIKBEDMJpF%2BjoKdF8CWDWLu%2BJyg357U2QGGQibLkyRW0IONl2xzmU7Gs3dg1w15Q7FeeBozaSvjlPZqxBedOzt987OR%2FIBenRjPQSzEwUQ72Agw7rye8nxnbupAsM8kcDYCxy7LHF3A1daLvDM1g8g2XNFewMRCUgLW8QilaP544zqAHYn%2FBObVeu4SGDEk%2ByZirKhpI99kkTF5%2B4FzoBGShg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUMKe-8jPZg if your confident enough be able to change it your self .

A "3 month warranty" is almost meaningless. You need to understand exactly what is covered, and what is NOT. Should an issue be identified; who pays the bill ? The vendor, some warranty company, or you (then you make a claim for reimbursement). It would also be helpful to understand who would actually undertake the work.

Work great (on 20 series) on country roads at night.

The manual I found on here, and had printed, says it this way: AFS (Adaptive Front Lighting System) improves visibility at intersections and on curves by automatically adjusting the direction of light axis of the headlights according to vehicle speed and the degree of the tyre angle that are controlled by steering input. Operates at speeds of 10km/h (6mph) or higher.

Switch off ignition, then start engine. Afs wont adjust whilst stationary, except during start up when it calibrates itself. Its most noticeable when turning corners, you should see the light pattern move to the side.

For main hid bulb (dipped headlight)

The headlamp cover is like a side dish. I'll take a photo

Hi all , happy to report that I have found a local mechanic not afraid to tackle work on my Alphard. He removed starter motor inspected Flywheel and found no significant wear, installed new starter motor and it started on the button whoopee. Thank you all for your help sourcing part and diagnosis.

These are the selected wheels going on

Hello Chris Thanks very much for taking the time to provide this information; I know that you are right about the 6v reverse camera. What I have decided to do is to take out the OE reverse camera and replace it with a Pioneer camera that I hope will be an upgrade in terms of quality and is also adjustable, which the OE one is not. So I will route a new cable through the car to the back. I think I have managed to track down all of the connectors to connect up the new unit and bypass the amp under the passenger seat. The worst part of this job has been removing all of the aftermarket accessories which have been installed in Japan such as TV tuner, various aerials, remote control receptors and a separate DVD Player located in the glove box for the rear screen - This was not done very professionally, which surprises me given my own experience of Japanese people who normally do excellent work whatever they do. To answer your question by the way, the car is 2010 and it is a 22 pin connector. Best Malcolm

You been also look for Toyota sienna on your search for YouTube videos, as the mechanism is practically the same, but more popular in America. Not sure exactly what your issue is, but you could start here YouTube

You can find full maintenance manual, including instructions for bulbs online. I won't post link, to avoid breaking forum rules, but if you do s Google search for English Repair Manual (09/2012-->12/2014) (RM2443) You will see a site that contains the manual, you will also find wiring diagrams.

Aftermarket security device. https://vanalert.co.uk/van-alert-system/sensors/

Thanks to those that reached out. Pleased to say after new cat fitted along with some minor pipework changed van is now good to go. Cheers :)

Yeah, just front bumper and rear lights, with some trim inside. Its a really basic model, things like AFS on the headlights, auto rain sensing wipers, auto folding mirrors are missing, and it has the basic 8 speaker setup with an aftermarket headunit. It looks nice and shiny, but i think for the price you are missing out on some tech that should really be standard. Maybe I'm just a snob, but i would totally miss some of the features.

hello brian you could go amayama https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8794058040a1 but can be exspensive or go secound hand https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=8794058040A1&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313 oe no. 8794058040A1

I don't know for sure, it's possible there is more than one type of wiring loom. Its only 2 bolts to remove in order to check

Hiya, Look under the dashboard where the accerlator is there you will find the fuse box. (you have be flexible to see it). It's a right mare to get fuses in and out.

you can try calder campers i went there before i bought mine from stuart spencer https://www.caldercampers.co.uk/

You have also got stuart spencer in the midlands he based in dudley i bought my alphard off him he got good google reviews

Welcome to the club I believe Algys is only if you want to import the vehicle yourself, they help you with the buying process. They may of changed since so best to find out if they sell cars now. There are a few dealers i have dealt with and the one that I have seen feedback from is New Acre Leisure: https://www.newacreleisure.com/ This is just from what i have seen so I cannot vouch for any recommendations I give but their feedback is pretty good. Here is their google reviews: https://share.google/aEmYjpoJMeM24GguV

Hello! Finally took ownership of our 2011 Alphard 350 and loving it so far. That V6 is glorious and the family absolutely love the space. I'm doing a bit of detective work because I feel like I could unlock some more potential in the car. I know for a fact it had the 360/Intelligent Parking Assist option because I have a button for it on the dash. I can also see the ECU under the passenger seat plus a camera under the wing mirror. However, there's a few things preventing it from working: The importer switched out the stock HU with an Android-based solution which is fine because it gives us CarPlay (was on my wife's MUST list). However, this has disabled the intelligent park assist/360 parking. The importer did tell us this would happen. They also replaced the rear camera with a HD version. There's no front camera! There's a hole for it in the grille, but no camera exists. I can see a possible plug for it which has been taped up with electrical tape. The tape isn't fresh, so could have been done a while ago. So for 1, I'm trying to somewhat reverse engineer what the importer has done. I've yet to take out the module they've fitted to see what is plugged in and what isn't. That should give me some clues. I have also reached out to ask them for details on what the HU is, but haven't heard back. I'm not sure they'll want to go into nitty-gritty detail of what they have done/replaced however, but I'll ask anyway. BUT, does anyone know of a good reason why the 360 camera would be disabled when replacing with an Android HU? I'm thinking something like https://audiotechdirect.com/atd-crc-27276-reverse-camera-retention-interface-for-toyota-alphard-ah20-estima-with-gvif/ may be required? Could be that they've taken the rear camera feed all the way to the head unit bypassing the IPA ECU? For 2, I cannot find any pics online or part numbers for a front-facing camera. Does anyone know what this could be? Thanks in advance! I'll update this thread as things develop. Ultimately I'd like to be able to get IPA/360 camera working with this aftermarket Android HU even if it means spending a bit of money.

There are two wires. A parking brake, and a speed sense wire. Please add a photo of the back of the unit and I'll post the correct wires

Note: No special tools are required to carry out the task except for general workshop and hand tools. Note: Disconnect the battery negative terminal before commencing work on the engine First step is to loosen the Right-hand Front wheel nuts, raise the vehicle on that side and support on an axle stand. Undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel. Remove the plastic undertray at the lower part of the front bumper and also the one covering the auxiliary drivebelts under the wheel arch. Remove the auxiliary drivebelts and place aside if reusing, although if worn, then replacement at this stage would be the sensible option and cost effective in the long run. Tip: keep the old belts (if still serviceable) in the boot as a spare if needed in a road-side breakdown situation. Remove any electrical connections that are in the way and pull the loom in towards the engine and secure with a Bungy strap. Next, you are ready to remove the top engine mount. Before proceeding, it will be necessary to support the engine by placing some wood between the trolley jack and the sump and gently raise the jack until the wood is just contacting but no more. Remove any bracketry to gain access to the timing belt covers. The engine stabiliser bar is okay to be left in position or pushed over towards to the rear of the engine. Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt and undo a couple of turns. Using a suitable puller, slightly withdraw the pulley from the crankshaft, remove the bolt and then fully remove the pulley. Once the upper and lower covers are removed you have then revealed the timing belt. It can be a fiddle to remove the alloy engine bracket (use a female torx socket to remove the studs) Replace the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and tighten. Now you are at the tricky stage of timing up the engine prior to removing the belt. This is a good time to have a short comfort break because the next stage will require some concentration. Rotate the crankshaft pulley in a clockwise direction until all of the notches in the pulleys and castings are in alignment (see diagram). The camshaft pulleys should now also align with their respective timing marks. See diagram (below) for more information on the alignment marks. Slacken off the tensioner and remove the timing belt. Remove the tensioner, guide pulley and idler pulley. At this stage, it would be prudent to replace the water pump as well as this is also part of the timing belt setup and if it starts to wear on the bearing or leak then it can compromise the engine durability and it is the additional time to replace it at a later date. Bear in mind, the bearing in the pump has also done the same amount of work as the other bearings! On reassembly, it would be wise to use a thread locking adhesive to ensure that none of the fasteners loosen of with vibration from the engine. This should be applied sparingly to all crucial nuts and bolts within the engine. When fitting the new tensioner, ensure that the retaining pin is still in situ. This must only be removed once the timing belt is in position and the tensioner can then apply pressure to the belt. The belt should be positioned so that the timing points are still aligned and when you are happy, release the pin. Check camshaft and crankshaft pulleys are positioned correctly then turn the crankshaft two complete turns (760 degrees) in a clockwise direction. The timing marks should still be aligned correctly. A final tighten and check on all components within the timing belt area and you are ready to replace the plastic covers and rebuild the engine in reverse of removal. Remember to apply thread lock to all vital fasteners. Ensure all fasteners are torqued to the correct setting and refill cooling system (if drained) When starting the engine for the first time, it should be allowed to idle for a period to check for noises and leaks. Always a good idea at this stage to recap all of the work carried out and ensure that everything has been fitted and tightened correctly, including wheel nuts!

Hi @ombakjernih , Apologies for getting back to you late and thanks for your continued support. I decided to follow you and buy Dudu so I can have the setup setup as yours and able to achieve what you did (parking trajectory, parking radar ,etc) Here's what I have: a) 40 pin socket for the meter b) Raise Canbus box (same model as yours) c) Got a Dudu7 to replace my 2 months old Onkyo so I have the same HU brand as yours But I must admit, I'm still lost due to a struggle of noticing misaligned information in a few places Connection from the meter : I understood from the diagram below that, I need to connect PIN 13 and 14 from the meter However, in your latest comment, it was mentioned I should use Pin 11 and 12 from the meter So tried to find 3rd reference by manually zooming + counting pin from with the photo of your setup, and based on the picture, it was connected with Pin 12 and 13 As I could not decide between the 3 choices (13+14 or, 12+13 or 11 + 12) + I didn't dare to proceed not knowing what would happen if the wiring was not done correctly. Connection to CANBUS box It was mentioned in your latest comment that I should connect with pin 13 and 16 Then I zoomed and manually counted the pin of your setup, I derived it's 11 and 12. Again, I cannot decide which one is the correct. All in all, I strongly believe what you share in this thread is insightful and can benefit greatly a lot of Alphard 20 lovers. I would be grateful if you can review my struggle and guide me to the finish line. Thank you in advance once again for the help.

Hello G, Welcome to the Forum. The relevant tyre pressures should be displayed on an information plate in one of the door jambs. It won't be in psi !

looking forward to a positive outcome

Hi all, I am going to purchase a new starter motor via the link sent to me . I will let you know result once fitted, once again thanks for your advice and the effort put in to obtain part no.s Fingers crossed

There is no 'reset' in the official Toyota process. At most, you'd connect via the obd in order to do a transmission fluid temperature check.

One connector is the media connection to the headunit, the other would have been to 110v power adaptors. Although it would seem your model did not have the ac inverter fitted.

Toyota directly. Or Amazon.Jp You can setup a japanese Amazon account, change language and currency to UK, and buy stuff from Japan. Because it's Amazon, so the taxes etc are included.

Hi and thank you for your replies. I have tried Nippon Auto Spares and North Star Conversions without luck. Looked on eBay and Facebook and it doesn't seem viable to pay £3000 for a 2002 vehicle. The engine blew through the sump, possible piston rod?? Bought privately in June this year. Will probably get her recovered back to the island and put up for sale as spares or repair, Once again, thank you for your replies and advice.