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Algys Autos appear to import several brands. Whilst this is no bad thing; you may wish to focus on an importer that specialises in Alphard / Vellfires. Many Importers re not able to offer maintenance facilities; so you need to ensure that you know where you will get your vehicle serviced. Do NOT assume the importer has those facilities and/or skills, or that your local Toyota dealer will work on your machine.

never heard of an alphard flywheel going. usually happens on manual cars and especially manual diesel cars from poor driving habits and quick shifting to save fuel.

hard to believe rac told you it was flywheel problem starter motor engages the flywheel starter motors stick so when he freed the the engine manually he un stuck the starter motor here is the oe no. for the starter motor 2810028051 here is a ebay link less than £90 for a new starter motor https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142543994198?_skw=2810028051&itmmeta=01K9Y8YSWSA3F3RR1ZYNGGNAXB&hash=item213048bd56:g:b1QAAOSwrAtjuAcx&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cJMSmCYzng1IWECYG0qmIKBEDMJpF%2BjoKdF8CWDWLu%2BJyg357U2QGGQibLkyRW0IONl2xzmU7Gs3dg1w15Q7FeeBozaSvjlPZqxBedOzt987OR%2FIBenRjPQSzEwUQ72Agw7rye8nxnbupAsM8kcDYCxy7LHF3A1daLvDM1g8g2XNFewMRCUgLW8QilaP544zqAHYn%2FBObVeu4SGDEk%2ByZirKhpI99kkTF5%2B4FzoBGShg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUMKe-8jPZg if your confident enough be able to change it your self .

I have Joying 15 inch screen. As far as I know it does everything. It works with rear camera and steering wheel controls. It can show a different screen on the rear as it does on the front, back can watch netflix, from can have satnav. It fills the large dash perfect - They do smaller models 15.1 Inch Big Screen Double Din Car Stereo

Hello mosey the books can be found on eBay or Amazon

I've now been inquisitive enough to get out my copy of the JPNZ owners manual - I absolutely recommend one @Gotenks1 The function of said button is to turn on the automatic function of the four wheel drive. It would seem they operate in 2wd, unless the button is on, and if it detects wheel slip it brings in the 4wd. I've taken photos of the pages from the manual for you.

After being told by my garage that I had to find the parts to fix my van. Apparently easy to find on Bay!!!!! Not ones to fit my van. Eventually after being told by Toyota in Inverness that they don't do imports, I was told to go to Bitz garage in Nairn. They keep Alphard parts and were able to source the parts for my van. Although an expensive trip for me as I had to find accommodation while I waited, it was worth it. I will make sure I book in with them when necessary when I come on to the mainland. Also found a great auto electrician on Isle of Lewis who fixed the sliding door on my van - needed a new cable. He also supplied a better leisure battery for me. Jim Brown at Motoplus.

I don't know for sure, it's possible there is more than one type of wiring loom. Its only 2 bolts to remove in order to check

Hiya, Look under the dashboard where the accerlator is there you will find the fuse box. (you have be flexible to see it). It's a right mare to get fuses in and out.

Hi Doss, Where are you based? We bought ours from Vine Place, Wingate, County Durham. They are on the usual social media channels and website. Thoroughly recommend them, if not too far from you.

you can try calder campers i went there before i bought mine from stuart spencer https://www.caldercampers.co.uk/

You have also got stuart spencer in the midlands he based in dudley i bought my alphard off him he got good google reviews

Welcome to the club I believe Algys is only if you want to import the vehicle yourself, they help you with the buying process. They may of changed since so best to find out if they sell cars now. There are a few dealers i have dealt with and the one that I have seen feedback from is New Acre Leisure: https://www.newacreleisure.com/ This is just from what i have seen so I cannot vouch for any recommendations I give but their feedback is pretty good. Here is their google reviews: https://share.google/aEmYjpoJMeM24GguV

Hello! Finally took ownership of our 2011 Alphard 350 and loving it so far. That V6 is glorious and the family absolutely love the space. I'm doing a bit of detective work because I feel like I could unlock some more potential in the car. I know for a fact it had the 360/Intelligent Parking Assist option because I have a button for it on the dash. I can also see the ECU under the passenger seat plus a camera under the wing mirror. However, there's a few things preventing it from working: The importer switched out the stock HU with an Android-based solution which is fine because it gives us CarPlay (was on my wife's MUST list). However, this has disabled the intelligent park assist/360 parking. The importer did tell us this would happen. They also replaced the rear camera with a HD version. There's no front camera! There's a hole for it in the grille, but no camera exists. I can see a possible plug for it which has been taped up with electrical tape. The tape isn't fresh, so could have been done a while ago. So for 1, I'm trying to somewhat reverse engineer what the importer has done. I've yet to take out the module they've fitted to see what is plugged in and what isn't. That should give me some clues. I have also reached out to ask them for details on what the HU is, but haven't heard back. I'm not sure they'll want to go into nitty-gritty detail of what they have done/replaced however, but I'll ask anyway. BUT, does anyone know of a good reason why the 360 camera would be disabled when replacing with an Android HU? I'm thinking something like https://audiotechdirect.com/atd-crc-27276-reverse-camera-retention-interface-for-toyota-alphard-ah20-estima-with-gvif/ may be required? Could be that they've taken the rear camera feed all the way to the head unit bypassing the IPA ECU? For 2, I cannot find any pics online or part numbers for a front-facing camera. Does anyone know what this could be? Thanks in advance! I'll update this thread as things develop. Ultimately I'd like to be able to get IPA/360 camera working with this aftermarket Android HU even if it means spending a bit of money.

There are two wires. A parking brake, and a speed sense wire. Please add a photo of the back of the unit and I'll post the correct wires

Note: No special tools are required to carry out the task except for general workshop and hand tools. Note: Disconnect the battery negative terminal before commencing work on the engine First step is to loosen the Right-hand Front wheel nuts, raise the vehicle on that side and support on an axle stand. Undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel. Remove the plastic undertray at the lower part of the front bumper and also the one covering the auxiliary drivebelts under the wheel arch. Remove the auxiliary drivebelts and place aside if reusing, although if worn, then replacement at this stage would be the sensible option and cost effective in the long run. Tip: keep the old belts (if still serviceable) in the boot as a spare if needed in a road-side breakdown situation. Remove any electrical connections that are in the way and pull the loom in towards the engine and secure with a Bungy strap. Next, you are ready to remove the top engine mount. Before proceeding, it will be necessary to support the engine by placing some wood between the trolley jack and the sump and gently raise the jack until the wood is just contacting but no more. Remove any bracketry to gain access to the timing belt covers. The engine stabiliser bar is okay to be left in position or pushed over towards to the rear of the engine. Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt and undo a couple of turns. Using a suitable puller, slightly withdraw the pulley from the crankshaft, remove the bolt and then fully remove the pulley. Once the upper and lower covers are removed you have then revealed the timing belt. It can be a fiddle to remove the alloy engine bracket (use a female torx socket to remove the studs) Replace the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and tighten. Now you are at the tricky stage of timing up the engine prior to removing the belt. This is a good time to have a short comfort break because the next stage will require some concentration. Rotate the crankshaft pulley in a clockwise direction until all of the notches in the pulleys and castings are in alignment (see diagram). The camshaft pulleys should now also align with their respective timing marks. See diagram (below) for more information on the alignment marks. Slacken off the tensioner and remove the timing belt. Remove the tensioner, guide pulley and idler pulley. At this stage, it would be prudent to replace the water pump as well as this is also part of the timing belt setup and if it starts to wear on the bearing or leak then it can compromise the engine durability and it is the additional time to replace it at a later date. Bear in mind, the bearing in the pump has also done the same amount of work as the other bearings! On reassembly, it would be wise to use a thread locking adhesive to ensure that none of the fasteners loosen of with vibration from the engine. This should be applied sparingly to all crucial nuts and bolts within the engine. When fitting the new tensioner, ensure that the retaining pin is still in situ. This must only be removed once the timing belt is in position and the tensioner can then apply pressure to the belt. The belt should be positioned so that the timing points are still aligned and when you are happy, release the pin. Check camshaft and crankshaft pulleys are positioned correctly then turn the crankshaft two complete turns (760 degrees) in a clockwise direction. The timing marks should still be aligned correctly. A final tighten and check on all components within the timing belt area and you are ready to replace the plastic covers and rebuild the engine in reverse of removal. Remember to apply thread lock to all vital fasteners. Ensure all fasteners are torqued to the correct setting and refill cooling system (if drained) When starting the engine for the first time, it should be allowed to idle for a period to check for noises and leaks. Always a good idea at this stage to recap all of the work carried out and ensure that everything has been fitted and tightened correctly, including wheel nuts!

Hi @ombakjernih , Apologies for getting back to you late and thanks for your continued support. I decided to follow you and buy Dudu so I can have the setup setup as yours and able to achieve what you did (parking trajectory, parking radar ,etc) Here's what I have: a) 40 pin socket for the meter b) Raise Canbus box (same model as yours) c) Got a Dudu7 to replace my 2 months old Onkyo so I have the same HU brand as yours But I must admit, I'm still lost due to a struggle of noticing misaligned information in a few places Connection from the meter : I understood from the diagram below that, I need to connect PIN 13 and 14 from the meter However, in your latest comment, it was mentioned I should use Pin 11 and 12 from the meter So tried to find 3rd reference by manually zooming + counting pin from with the photo of your setup, and based on the picture, it was connected with Pin 12 and 13 As I could not decide between the 3 choices (13+14 or, 12+13 or 11 + 12) + I didn't dare to proceed not knowing what would happen if the wiring was not done correctly. Connection to CANBUS box It was mentioned in your latest comment that I should connect with pin 13 and 16 Then I zoomed and manually counted the pin of your setup, I derived it's 11 and 12. Again, I cannot decide which one is the correct. All in all, I strongly believe what you share in this thread is insightful and can benefit greatly a lot of Alphard 20 lovers. I would be grateful if you can review my struggle and guide me to the finish line. Thank you in advance once again for the help.

Hello G, Welcome to the Forum. The relevant tyre pressures should be displayed on an information plate in one of the door jambs. It won't be in psi !

looking forward to a positive outcome

Hi all, I am going to purchase a new starter motor via the link sent to me . I will let you know result once fitted, once again thanks for your advice and the effort put in to obtain part no.s Fingers crossed

There is no 'reset' in the official Toyota process. At most, you'd connect via the obd in order to do a transmission fluid temperature check.

Hi and welcome to the club They are lying. You do not need to reset anything. Ive done it myself. Its also not difficult. Too many mechanics scared to delve in to something different and actually think for themselves instead of using the computer to help them. Best bet, find a garage that sells import vehicles, and ask them who they use. Guarenteed they know someone.

Yep, I still do that! But I swap from my van and Subaru Outback and that's my excuse!! 😄

nice one mick, welcome to the club we should all now do the wave sign by putting the wipers on from now on

I had mine checked earlier this year as the rear tyres were showing wear on the insides (I think) but the garage (TyrePros in Stevenage Old Town) said they were all in spec. I remember thinking at the time, when looking at the structure underneath, how on earth any of it could be adjusted in any case, as it all looked to be solidly attached together. The diagram their their alignment checker produced helped to explain it all.

Hello Derek, I have read that with 4wd vehicles it is very important that all tyres are the same brand, size, and wear. What are the state of yours ?

Hi all, Firstly, thanks to the mods for upgrading the forum. The new style looks great and love the dark mode. Now onto the matter in hand and, yes, it's another head unit question. I'm looking for a new head unit to replace the original one in my AH20. Ideally, I'd like it to do everything - that is, be controllable from the steering wheel, control the rear ceiling screen, and show the reversing camera. I don't know if any of the units do all of that, or whether I need to sacrifice a function or two. I've been looking at these three, just for reference / capability: Pioneer https://www.roadradio.com/product/car-audio/androidauto/pioneer/sph-evo98dab/b628ba95-5a8a-4a88-af1c-ae4272e98d96 Sony https://www.sony.co.uk/store/product/xavax8150ant.ei/XAV-AX8150-7C-22-7-cm-288-95-27-27-29-DAB-Media-Receiver-with-WebLink-E2-84-A2-Cast Xtrons https://xtrons.co.uk/product/toyota-prius-android-iphone-octa-core-4gb-ram-64gb-rom-global-4g-lte-solution-iap92psts/ I'm unclear as to whether any of these tick all of the boxes, and I want to stick to a well-known brand. Does anyone know if such a unit exists that does everything, and whether any of the above three would fit the bill? Thanks, Paul

I used to think it was time for a brew (kidding lol)

Thanks for the replies. I've ordered an English Language manual as suggested. I've also found a button on the dash with a video camera icon, which turns on the 360 camera view, which is what I was looking for.

Hello, I do like to read the posts but always stay in the wings. I’ve noticed how knowledgeable you all are and helpful also. So it’s good to be here and join the conversations at last. i bought a 2009 Vellfire in September and blimey, what a beautiful machine, wish I’d known about them earlier. My first long trip in her was up to London to see Oasis, it was a joy to drive and we even enjoyed sitting in traffic for nearly an hour getting to the stadium from the hotel, which was in Wembley! Traffic was a nightmare. Anyway hello to everyone.

guy just found the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tr0H7cIDzPE

guy what is the part no. you got also there is a video on here somwhere on how to fix it

Welcome s. M.

welcome hector lovely motor

Welcome Nadim pm me your reg no. I help lots of members on here with part no.s will point you in right direction to get battery from you need to replace with correct battery you already noticed you got the heat sensor on the battery

If you are concerned that the rubber seal around the sunroof isn't sealing then don't be. The seal on the sunroof isn't designed to be water tight, hence the drain hoses. If there is a large visible gap then there could be an issue.

Hi Had to replace my screen here in Oz there was none available so had to source one direct from Toyota Japan lead time was 3 months fortunately crack wasn’t to bad so still able to drive no MOT to worry about here they don’t have them you can run a car for ever without any checks. only problem I had was when screen fitted rain sensing wipers sensor wasn’t fitted correctly but was quickly sorted couldn’t find out how much it cost insurance but it didn’t cost me anything so was happy. As there are probably more Alphards & velfires in the UK they might carry stock there. cheers Alan

You can set the behaviour of auto locking and unlocking doors based on shift selector on P or D, via a simple combination of holding the lock or unlock control whist depriving ignition on, in the relevant gear. It's in the user manual

Welcome John I did not think this could be done by changing the headlights will be interested if it works ok if your on about the module it’s behind the rear wheel I forget which side there is a module bolted to the under side it’s plugged in and a link bar coming off that to the floating axle if your looking to sell your old head lamps if they are clear ones I might be interested buying them off you .

Thanks guys, super helpful!

bearings dont make grinding noises as such, only at the last minute they do. They will hum along for months and over time just get worse. Glide along lets say doing 30, windows closed and listen out for going around corners if it slightly louder. the extra weight on the bearing will make it louder. This would be the first place to look, doesn't mean it is the issue but any garage would first look at bearings if there is a rumble. Probably the easiest to fix as well.

Thank you picasso. Was going through my emails trying to find...

Should use microphone in the car roger. otherwise if you phone is in your pocket then it will sound muffled

Lee, in the main, will also advise when to go with OEM parts and when economies can be made with factor parts.

I have just had my two rear bushes and one CV boot done for mot total £384 At adelaide rd automotive East cowes

@Carodragon We have a member here called @Picasso (Lee) who might of found these parts for you. if you are ever looking for anything give lee a shout who can get the part numbers for you. You can cross reference these numbers. A lot of parts are interchangeable with other toyota models

Welcome roger one of the first things you need if you have not got one if a hand book there are some good ones on ebay and amazon translated english ones printed by a company called jpnz these give you all the information with pictures what all the buttons do.

Just a guess but I would assume that is the reversing view - have you tried putting it into reverse gear?

One connector is the media connection to the headunit, the other would have been to 110v power adaptors. Although it would seem your model did not have the ac inverter fitted.

Hi Dan, worked fine! Rear bumper comes off without trouble, a piece of black plastic under-trim is sensibly left out at re-assembly rather than being cut up to make room for the bar. The slightly tricky step is getting the 'nuts' in place for the bolts. The 'nuts' are not nuts (!), instead are drilled and tapped rectangular chunks of steel designed to stay in place while the bolts are located and tightened. Loctite recommended. The mechanic spot-welded a stiff wire to the 'nut' so it could be inserted into the narrow opening and then kept in place while the bolt found it, the wire twisted off afterwards. The electrics were very easy. A universal by-pass relay kit has plenty of room in the auxiliary 12V battery compartment conveniently located in the rear, and there are already openings to the outside underneath the bumper for the wiring. Two comments. One is that the towbar sits below the rear floor, and so takes up 5 cm of available ground clearance. No problem on-road, but aggressively formed speed bumps or off-road require a little more attention. The other is that the attachment and locking mechanisms for the detachable ball, while perfectly secure, do have a little play. If I was towing a caravan or trailer rather than simply mounting a bike rack, I would shim the lateral play out.