Leaderboard

Maybe somebody that works there is called Tanya and thats why. (its ok, i have your back lol)

Yes. Either you tap from meter or obd still the same. this is the wiring to get data Tx & Rx from canH and canL only. But the obd port I connected with elm327.

Great news! My Alphard just passed its MOT. To celebrate, I've created a tutorial video on how to properly install the rear fog lamp using the OEM stalk and relay. This guide is specifically for second-gen Alphards, but based on feedback from first-gen owners, the process should be similar. This project took me months of research and gathering information from various sources. Since I couldn't find a single comprehensive video covering all the steps, I decided to make one myself. I hope this video is helpful to the entire Alphard community. Please like, share, and subscribe to help spread the word!

Wooowww thanks alot, it's work at mu GGH20.

@Simbad For future reference, those side panels of the steering wheel are actually really easy to remove when you know how. I struggled to get the first one off and then realised how it should be done. The ideal tool is a thin metal spudger (I use the blunt end to avoid any risk of scratches). There is actually only one clip holding it in place, and it's in the centre of the front edge of each panel (nearest the driver's seat). All you need to do is shove the spudger straight in at that point, then bend it towards the driver's seat slightly so that the clip bends a little bit, just enough for its lip to clear the opening. Here, I made a video.

hi check this link Car Radio For Toyota Vellfire Alphard H20 2008-2014 CarPlay AndroidAuto Automotive multimedia Tesla Style Bluetooth 4G GPS WIFI - AliExpress 34

Creep? It was like an F1 car 😂 I went round the (quiet) block in ‘D’ without touching the accelerator including slight inclines, not shuddering from engine, all very smooth. I'm retired so no rush hour driving, just clear roads where I’m going. I think there are settings to be looked at on yours.

Late update. The bridging works perfectly. The challenge now is where to find the OEM rear monitor or someone in NZ can repair it. Thanks @Tama from fiji

Craig, I had the same problem. It is not a difficult job, although a little fiddly. I got the part from Jap Euro car parts. I can’t remember the part number but it looks like the attached. For fitting I found you tube Rav 5 videos good to show you what to do. The design and layout is the same. Basically - remove from RHS wheel, remove the plastic covering that separates this area from the engine area, and you’ll see the washer fluid tank with the two pumps - one for front, one for rear at the bottom. They are held in with washer so can be pulled off. To check it is the pump and not the fuse. Swap the rear (working) pump and plug it into the front socket. If it works the pump is the problem. If it doesn’t, then you’ll need to look at the electrics. Hope that helps

I think you mean Denis 🙂

Day 13 - 2 hours So I spent a lot of time waiting for parts. When I was ready to install the head bolts. I realised that the new ones didn't come with washers and I'd thrown away the old😂. Didn't want to risk buying something similar and decided to ask Toyota. It was about £2.50 per washer but £28.99 delivery! I emailed asking them if they could get me a better deal on the delivery but after 3 days I had no reply. So I ordered from Amayama. It took about 3 weeks but only cost £16.90 inc delivery! Great service. I spent the first hour checking that my holes were clear or debris and oil. Then confirming that my holes were deep enough. Gave the head and block a final clean. Fitted the gasket and head. Greased the washer and thread of each bolt with engine oil. Torqued to 30 - 42- 55 - 70. In the order in the images. Final 90 degree turn in the same order. Feel like I'm on the home straight. Time for bed now.

hello pm me you reg no. and list of parts your looking for i have a system where i can x reference oe no.s to aftermarket parts

Neville, thanks for the correction! Can’t blame the spellcheck, just lack of communication between grey cells and fingers! 😂😂😂

Hi I am new to this forum I have Toyota Alphard ANH20 2009 and I want to install the factory OEM Roof Monitor in my Alphard it has roof fittings there just want to cut the hole in the roof and install it but the problem is I have installed the Kenwood Head unit in my Alphard and it has video out and I want to connect the screen to the Kenwood Head unit. I am searching on the internet if I can get the pinout diagram from net so I can power up the screen and figure out the video input wires and moter triger signal wire? Please help me out if anyone know the pinout. Thanks

I know this is for landcruiser but same principle for all automatics.

My importer 'blacked-out' the k (of kmph), with matt black paint, extremely well done too.

my importer put a piece of black electric tape over the kph had 3 mots since no problems

I have an auto-electrician booked for next Wednesday afternoon so hopefully he will be able to test both at least.

Hi there! My guess is the battery is dying. Voltage is not a full indicator of its condition. Poor electrical health will cause lots of strange electrical communication faults on "new" cars. And my other guess, on the low charge voltage when running, is that it had just been fully charged off the car, so the charging system may have "thought" it was good, so not pulling in the alternator. Could well be wrong on that. If you try it again, then put the lights and all other electrical kit on, it should make the alternator work - or not - then you'll have a bit more info. I've got an old battery from my work van, still holds a good voltage, but when tested its cranking amps are down at 550 from the rated 900. Still plenty enough for tests and a standby jump start for most cars though!

Hi my 2005 alphard with pop top on 17" wheels 70 series tyres and a thule side awning which is a little taller than the pop top goes in car parks with a 2.1 metre height as that's the height of our underground parking space. I've only had trouble getting in one car park and that was the local hospital.

Kwik Fit will test your battery, under load (which is very important) for free with a printout. Your alternator will also be tested. As Lee says, your battery needs to be in tip top condition at this time of year.

That head unit is stuck in Japanese. It's a JDM model number. Some later 2014 versions had English, as well as the export models (hong kong, Malaysia) That 3rd button with a G is a giveaway, as it means it is configured to connect to the Japanese data network, the export models do not have that button. That said, it has Bluetooth media and Bluetooth calling, and you can add a carplay box, and a small mod to the touchscreen that allows you to use it use your phone to display satnav etc.

I'm not making a recommendation, as i don't have an older 10 series. But you can buy relatively cheap headunit from AliExpress. Eg. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIwOv40

After much faffing around I have sorted my fog lights out. Thanks for all the help. Will get a photo once the sun sets. Way easier just to completely remove the whole bumper and do it elsewhere. After installation, I was just testing them out and the car started throwing hybrid system errors. Which was a bit of a problem. Finally managed to get my OBD2 reader to work to discover that my 12V battery was pretty much dead ... Connected up a backup battery I have, cleared the code and its working perfectly ... *phew*

Thanks guys. I test-drove a different one today and that crept as I expected, so I guess it was something amiss with the other one. Today's is the one I want to buy anyway

Just to add that my 2005 facelift 10 creeps forward on the flat also - not fast, not quite walking speed if I were to guess. Obviously when in D and with the brake(s) off. From my limited knowledge of automatics (AA Book of the Car) it could be due to a high idle speed and / or the fluid flywheel being too full or having it's fluid not fluid enough (or too much, I guess either would do the same). I would say it's normal, but you might need to consider the ambient temperature as that may affect performance, both of the auto-box and the engine when on 'choke' after starting as mine revs high then anyway (though I am awaiting a replacement MAF sensor as I am getting the P0171 lean fuel on bank 1 message and a spray with cleaner hasn't made any difference).

The only way to know for certain what is going on is to use techstream and get some live data. Did it have this problem before you replaced the O2 sensors? Did you buy quality branded O2 sensors from a reputable supplier (not ridiculously cheap but apparently branded items from eBay)?

From what I've read, all non-hybrid AH10s use a standard 4- or 5-speed (depending on engine size) non-CVT.

Welcome Alan if it’s your first time owning a import servicing is probably the the most important thing regular oil changes

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8414042080 - it will take a time to get here, but that number will also work on the usual websites. I am just trying to find out whether it's actually worth my while getting one, or whether it won't work on a series 10 (facelift). Your model number and type are useful as it will filter items just for your vehicle.

should leave forum alone first thing in the morning paul thank for pointing out my error

This is brilliant going to help a lot of members Denis

Hello Billy, There is lots of buying advice in the Forum; much reading for you to do. Use the search function on your home page. I would advise avoiding Hybrids from the 2002 to 2008 era.

There are two different sizes for the usbs to fit toyotas, you need the short fat ones. Ebay and Amazon also do them. Best on I got was one to fit next to the 12v socket below the gear shift. You just unplug the cable from the 12v socket, then daisy chain it. No other connections needed. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DBXYZ3SX?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3

Mildown Campers near Dover excellent service and top notch conversion the owner has a real passion for both the vehicles and the conversion.

Thank you - that shows me what to expect for my fog light experience (my one had a fog light switch on the dash but it fed a wire that ended up coiled up in the boot lid!) which so far ends in a add-on light hanging under the bumper. It looks as though I should be able to unscrew the reflectors from underneath - though taking the whole bumper off is also pretty easy.

Seems after removing the two bolts at the back I just had to pull or push it off the locating white plastic pins and off it comes.

Hello Nicki, Welcome to the Forum. Are we talking inner button or outside lever ? Do the buttons on the dash work OK ? There are a couple of camper suppliers in Newquay. Are you anywhere near them. There is also Dyernostics (sic) in Bodmin who is Toyota trained. Good Luck.

No the screen is wired to the ignition. It turns on when you open it and then shuts off when close it. The only problem I had was my head unit feeds out HDMI but the screen has an RCA. Ended up having to run a USB socket to plug in a convertor Not the greatest picture and the fact I can only mirror the front screen is not great, but it was there doing nothing and people in the back can stop keep asking me how long till we get somewhere lol

My 2.4 (hybrid) has never used any oil and it is always clean almost as new when checked. I always check the levels weekly. It has never used any coolant either.

Hello Nancy, Welcome to the Forum. There is a For Sale section in this Forum. You are welcome to put an advert there. There is no charge, but you must comply with the Rules for Selling. There is also a section for recommended suppliers / garages / maintenance. Perhaps you would consider adding their name etc, in that section. Are they in Bodmin, as there is a Toyota Trained Technician there ?

Do you know which cylinder bank has the issue. From the front of the engine bay; is it the near bank or far bank ? This engine was also fitted to a Lexus. Try and find a qualified Toyota Master Technician who has worked on Camry and Lexus cars There is one in Bodmin; it might be worth giving him a call to see if he has any contacts near you. There must be someone capable in The Midlands. I'll find his name; I know it is a silly one ! DyerNostics, Toyota Specialist

Do you have any pictures? I'm just trying to decide between the saris bones and the fabbri bici. I have a early 2008 (gen 1) alphard. Thanks

I've seen a few questions on programming keys and just wanted to share the instructions below. These were taken from a Toyota MR2 forum and I used them to successfully program a new key on a 2004 Alphard It's a two stage process, first to program it to unlock doors on the button and then to program it to work with the immobilizer I hope this is useful to others-

I bought a pre owned conversion done by Wellhouse of Barnsley and 5 years after they imported and converted it everything seems to work well and has a solid feel. I can't fault it.

Hi Starrider, and fellow members, If you are considering buying McGard locking wheel nuts for your beloved Alphie this will be of interest to you. I have solved the mystery of why my mechanic could not fit the locking wheel nuts ! With my first set one of the washers would not pass over the new security nut, I returned them, as agreed with the vendor, and await my refund. The second set, sourced direct from Germany, could not, initially, be fitted either ! Why ? If you refer to the photo above, the original nut (on the left) has a captive washer, the new security nut does not. The lateral play on the original washer is almost zero. The lateral play on the security nut is probably about a sixteenth of an inch. When fitting the new nut, there is a distinct tendency for the washer to fall from the nut and drop onto the thread of the wheel bolt. In such a position, it is impossible to tighten the new security nut ! You may be lucky as this does not happen every time, but when it does .... So, while resting on your hands and knees you have to manually lift the washer (while the nut is in the way) and hold it in the correct position while you hand tighten the new nut. NOT particularly easy. So, just imagine you have a flat tyre, on the offside, in the pouring rain, on a windy day, on a very busy A road, in the dark (holding a torch) !!! Even one of the rescue services will not find the task easy !. So, as Starider says, you MUST keep at least one of the original nuts which will fit perfectly, without hassle. When safe, the original nut can be replaced with the security nut. I suggest the security key and one original nut are kept in a very accessible place. So, whilst I feel the product is actually quite good, I cannot recommend it as fitting it in an emergency situation could be very difficult. In an emergency, I suppose, you could run to safety with only four wheel nuts. I wouldn't, and I don't think my insurance company would be too pleased either.

https://cardiagn.com/toyota/toyota-alphard-vellfire/?utm_source=AlphardClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks

Try this https://toyota.epc-data.com/alphard/

Any double din unit should go in physically without much trouble as they're a standard size. The tricky bit is the wiring. At the very least you need an ISO wiring loom/adaptor, but you don't want to lose the steering wheel buttons operating your new radio so you really need another adaptor for that too. This complete package worked well for me: https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/toyota-alphard-2002-2008-double-din-car-stereo-fascia-stalk-fitting-kit-black.html It has everything you need. Fitting my head unit was a doddle apart from the backup camera wiring which was a massive pain, but that's another story! You said don't need sat nav, so you might consider an even cheaper unit (£47!) that will mirror the sat nav on your phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Camecho-Bluetooth-Android-Support-Steering/dp/B07P5CWX65 Not that I bought one myself - mostly because I'm not convinced the steering wheel controls will work it (but I may be wrong). I also really wanted CarPlay and DAB so I bought the cheapest option with both, namely a Sony XAV-AX1005DB (£260). Not cheap but it "just works". I also get a really solid DAB signal after fitting a £25 DAB windscreen antenna, so maybe the same will work for FM, dunno...