dezufo

Its for the front camera which has a split lens that shows a view left & right at junctions, it can be switched on/off via the switch on the right hand side of the steering wheel

It is only the facelift 3.0Litre from 2005 on wards that had a 5 speed, 4-speed automatic: U140E (pre-facelift 3.0) U140F (2.4 AWD/pre-facelift 3.0 AWD) U241E (2.4 FWD) P210 e-CVT (hybrid) 5-speed automatic (facelift 3.0): U151E (FWD) U151F (AWD)

Well done, not something I would fancy doing in this weather

If it looks the same then it more than likely is as the shell/chassis is the same it was just the style that changed depending on model, e.g. AS, MS, you can check in the link for part numbers amayama.com

You need a scanner with the JOBD protocol to read the fault codes, once you have a code you can google it, you will then have a very good idea on which part to replace, with out the code you will just be throwing money at it, a good scanner is the Ancel JP700

Tensioner should not need doing unless a very high mileage, if your rad has the plastic side panels they can crack due to age and heat but you can get radiators with metal sides on ebay, new hoses is agood idea, also towards the back there are 2 T joints that take the coolant into the heater matrix, they are made of plastic and can get brittle due to the heat/age some people, my self included, fit brass T pieces, 19mm, again on ebay, the link will be helpful for any part numbers you might need for other bits, once you have a part number you can use it as a cross reference or ask a toyota dealer to get it or even get it through the link amayama.com

As it is an inline 4 it is possible to do it in-situ, however it is advisable to have the head skimmed to ensure it has not warped so search for a place local to you that can do that

Yes, as long as you have a sensor pre & post the manifold cat

Get an Ancel JP700 scanner or any other make that has the JOBD protocol, a lot of people fit universal 02 sensors where they have to wire the pins to suit the vehicle, that could be why your wiring is a mess, look for a Denso or Blueprint or FebiBilstein sensor

the 2nd cat was fitted on the 2.4L to comply with the cold start emissions test which is not part of the uk mot

It is a personal choice as some people go for an Android head unit others go for a more conventional unit such as a Pioneer or a Kenwood, you need to make a list of what features you would like, e.g. Satnav, Bluetooth, Phone mirroring, Dab radio, CD player, Reversing camera, what ever you choose you will need an adapter loom for the steering wheel controls, also a 12v rear camera & front if 1 is fitted as the oem are poor quality & 6v, I chose an ex-display Pioneer AVIC-Z620BT

Possible causes; ball joints, worn bush(s) in lower arms, steering rack bushes, noise from the centre area could be engine mount

Sounds like the drive cable, (bowden type) has jammed the pulleys inside the door, it is a known fault. The cable has a plastic outer which gets brittle and breaks up, the bits foul the pulleys/motor, as the cable is under tension you have to release the tension to allow the door to move freely, cut the cable close to the entry point on the door and remove it from the channel under th rear quarter window this will allow you to open/close the door manually, switch off the "power door" on the dash. Replacements are available off ebay and youtube has videos on how to fit the mechanism, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354878093116

Check out PCT Towbars they are ISO No.55 approved, they come complete with nuts/bolts etc, if you contact them they will have a list of approved fitters, https://www.pctautomotive.com/towbars

As I recall the loom comes with instructions for a variety of different manufacturers and is just plug & play as the plugs & sockets are standard, the only awkward wire is the 1 that goes to the reversing camera which if it is the original factory fit could be 6volt, adapters are on ebay or just fit a 12v camera which will be of better quality, I actually fitted a wifi 1, the link is the adapter I used for my 2003 with a Pioneer unit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373176086232

I'm old school, so I fitted a Pioneer AVIC-Z620BT, ex demo unit, in place of the oem, I then fitted a 2nd hand Kenwood radio in the centre console cubby & a cd changer under the passenger seat, that allows me to play my CDs or listen to the radio or even play Amazon music via the head unit, There is a built in satnav with updates yearly, have to pay after the 1st update, it also has a trip computer which I have never used, I can also mirror what ever is on my phone screen onto the head unit, I fitted new cameras front & back as the originals where 6volt and poor quality, I had to get a loom for the steering wheel controls but that is just plug & play, I also fitted a 3 position switch so I can have the audio on the leisure or main battery, all in it took a while but it works for me. There are Android units on the market that look like a Tesla screen but imo they are over the top. BTW the G on the tailgate just denotes the Toyopet dealer network that sold it in Japan

If the immobiliser indicator stays on then the circuit is not reading the chip in the key fob when you put the key in the ignition. So the problem is either in the fob or the ignition circuit. Main battery, the posts can get corroded and thus the voltage drops, the battery in the fob just locks/unlocks the doors

If you have the old style fob with buttons to lock/unlock then the chip in the fob is passive they do not transmit any signal, the chip is read by the circuitry in the ignition, Check the immobiliser indicator, flashing red car shape, if it goes out when you put the key in the ignition then it is working correctly. You could have worn contacts on the starter solenoid or a slightly loose/dirty contact on the battery posts

Some parts suppliers can get the parts but as it's an import it might not be on their system. If you or your garage use the amayama site for the part numbers then you can use them to cross reference after market pads etc from Febi or Autodoc or your local Toyota dealer. I have found it's easier and quicker to source the parts and get my local garage to fit them but some garages do not like fitting parts supplied by the customer. the link is for the front pads on a MNH10, part number; 04465-65021 https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/MNH10W/151860/chassis/4705

No the ABS can not be turned off, all modern cars have it, it is a safety measure that prevents the wheels locking up and skidding especially on wet roads. Change the brake fluid because it could be years old and past it's best, then check the pads supplied by EBC brake shop, the green ones are reportedly good, Your garage could get brake parts from Autodoc.com or Febibilstein or direct from Toyota, check in the link for part numbers, amayama.com

clonking the kerb would mess up the tracking not likley to mess up any thing else though

If you get a CarVX report it will tell you if it has any accident damage while in japan, you have to input the chassis number and pay a fee, about £24, they then email the results. e.g. chassis number MNH15-0028305 , if it does not work just put a W in, e.g. MNH15W-. For future reference with part numbers check in the link amayama.com

Steering wheel should not be off to the right so that is a bad start as to who set it at that, chassis is different so series 20 parts will not fit series 10. You need to find a place that has Hunter equipment and use the jltech info for a series 10 but they should have an alphard in their system, normally no caster adjustment unless you have a racing set up, have you checked for play in the control arm bushes

I have a 2003 model and the anchor points are buried at the back of the seat squab, there is a label stating isofix but as already said some child seats do not fit

Do a CarVX check as that will confirm the mileages and condition at the time of the auction plus if any recalls have been done, any service records, has the timing belt been changed, how old are the tyres if 7 years or older, regardless of the tread depth, they will need changing, the other item that usually needs replacing is the battery as they sit idle at the auction/on the ship and once the voltage drops to 10.5 v the cells get damaged beyond recovery, all things being equal go for the 5speed