dezufo

The tax always goes up in April, at the moment it is £345

The main problem is that the cable frays inside the door as well and fouls the mechanism, there are 2 solutions, 1) change the cable/mechanism inside the door which entails removing the door card to get at the part, 2) cut the cable as close to the door as possible, switch off the power door on the dash, then you can open/close the door manually. Part available on eBay > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176509903974

kseal can block other parts of the heating system, always best to find where the leak is. If there is plenty of coolant in the rad, and you can see it moving when cold with the cap off, then it could be blocked in the heater matrix. You need to warm it up then check the small hoses, feed/return, that are connected to the matrix near the bulkhead, if they are both warm then the valve is working, and you have flow through the matrix, if not then the valve is not working or blocked. If you have flow through then the other cause could be the air flap control disc is faulty, a known fault, it is situated behind the dash low down, above and to the left of the parking brake, a disc from an Avensis control will fit, but both units need stripping down and the discs swopping

As said whole headlight, eBay is best, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146302066269

As said already, they are not required as the beam is flat plus there is no marker as to where to place them, but some people put a set in the glove box just in case they get stopped, you can get a set off ebay

Check on eBay for wheel arch trim clips or look in the link for the part number https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/ANH10W/35395/body/6151

From what I have read elsewhere, the units under the seat are for the tv and/or satnav, the CPU is behind the dash and the hard drive is built in to the head unit

the flashing car symbol is supposed to flash when ever the key is not in the ignition, it indicates that the immobiliser is working

Its for the front camera which has a split lens that shows a view left & right at junctions, it can be switched on/off via the switch on the right hand side of the steering wheel

It is only the facelift 3.0Litre from 2005 on wards that had a 5 speed, 4-speed automatic: U140E (pre-facelift 3.0) U140F (2.4 AWD/pre-facelift 3.0 AWD) U241E (2.4 FWD) P210 e-CVT (hybrid) 5-speed automatic (facelift 3.0): U151E (FWD) U151F (AWD)

Well done, not something I would fancy doing in this weather

If it looks the same then it more than likely is as the shell/chassis is the same it was just the style that changed depending on model, e.g. AS, MS, you can check in the link for part numbers amayama.com

You need a scanner with the JOBD protocol to read the fault codes, once you have a code you can google it, you will then have a very good idea on which part to replace, with out the code you will just be throwing money at it, a good scanner is the Ancel JP700

Tensioner should not need doing unless a very high mileage, if your rad has the plastic side panels they can crack due to age and heat but you can get radiators with metal sides on ebay, new hoses is agood idea, also towards the back there are 2 T joints that take the coolant into the heater matrix, they are made of plastic and can get brittle due to the heat/age some people, my self included, fit brass T pieces, 19mm, again on ebay, the link will be helpful for any part numbers you might need for other bits, once you have a part number you can use it as a cross reference or ask a toyota dealer to get it or even get it through the link amayama.com

As it is an inline 4 it is possible to do it in-situ, however it is advisable to have the head skimmed to ensure it has not warped so search for a place local to you that can do that

Yes, as long as you have a sensor pre & post the manifold cat

Get an Ancel JP700 scanner or any other make that has the JOBD protocol, a lot of people fit universal 02 sensors where they have to wire the pins to suit the vehicle, that could be why your wiring is a mess, look for a Denso or Blueprint or FebiBilstein sensor

the 2nd cat was fitted on the 2.4L to comply with the cold start emissions test which is not part of the uk mot

It is a personal choice as some people go for an Android head unit others go for a more conventional unit such as a Pioneer or a Kenwood, you need to make a list of what features you would like, e.g. Satnav, Bluetooth, Phone mirroring, Dab radio, CD player, Reversing camera, what ever you choose you will need an adapter loom for the steering wheel controls, also a 12v rear camera & front if 1 is fitted as the oem are poor quality & 6v, I chose an ex-display Pioneer AVIC-Z620BT

Possible causes; ball joints, worn bush(s) in lower arms, steering rack bushes, noise from the centre area could be engine mount

Sounds like the drive cable, (bowden type) has jammed the pulleys inside the door, it is a known fault. The cable has a plastic outer which gets brittle and breaks up, the bits foul the pulleys/motor, as the cable is under tension you have to release the tension to allow the door to move freely, cut the cable close to the entry point on the door and remove it from the channel under th rear quarter window this will allow you to open/close the door manually, switch off the "power door" on the dash. Replacements are available off ebay and youtube has videos on how to fit the mechanism, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354878093116

Check out PCT Towbars they are ISO No.55 approved, they come complete with nuts/bolts etc, if you contact them they will have a list of approved fitters, https://www.pctautomotive.com/towbars

As I recall the loom comes with instructions for a variety of different manufacturers and is just plug & play as the plugs & sockets are standard, the only awkward wire is the 1 that goes to the reversing camera which if it is the original factory fit could be 6volt, adapters are on ebay or just fit a 12v camera which will be of better quality, I actually fitted a wifi 1, the link is the adapter I used for my 2003 with a Pioneer unit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373176086232

I'm old school, so I fitted a Pioneer AVIC-Z620BT, ex demo unit, in place of the oem, I then fitted a 2nd hand Kenwood radio in the centre console cubby & a cd changer under the passenger seat, that allows me to play my CDs or listen to the radio or even play Amazon music via the head unit, There is a built in satnav with updates yearly, have to pay after the 1st update, it also has a trip computer which I have never used, I can also mirror what ever is on my phone screen onto the head unit, I fitted new cameras front & back as the originals where 6volt and poor quality, I had to get a loom for the steering wheel controls but that is just plug & play, I also fitted a 3 position switch so I can have the audio on the leisure or main battery, all in it took a while but it works for me. There are Android units on the market that look like a Tesla screen but imo they are over the top. BTW the G on the tailgate just denotes the Toyopet dealer network that sold it in Japan

If the immobiliser indicator stays on then the circuit is not reading the chip in the key fob when you put the key in the ignition. So the problem is either in the fob or the ignition circuit. Main battery, the posts can get corroded and thus the voltage drops, the battery in the fob just locks/unlocks the doors