dezufo

Yes just pulls out, do not twist as the holder will fall out behind, 5W capless or led equivalent

That looks like a standard body trim but seems to have been lifted slightly

A person in russia has done it by removing the standard trim/bumpers, see pics. You can get lift kits on eBay, but the maximum is 40mm without putting undue strain on the driveshafts.

I replaced mine, I levered out the side with the R on it then bent the whole reflector up and pulled the other hand side straight out, I then filed down the serrated bits on one side of that tab, then bent it back in to shape, then pushed the whole thing back into the slots

When I had a new key cut and programmed, the guy used a combination of opening/closing the drivers door along with turning the key in the ignition, no laptop connected, he did mention that the ecu will only accept a maximum of 5 keys including a valet key.

Thanks for this write-up, I have book marked it in case I ever need to do the same

As Rojie said, it is to help with parking

To route cable to the rear, take the kick panel off in the foot well, lift the steps up from the passenger and sliding door, then you can tuck the cable under the wheel arch trim and fish it out into the storage/jack cubby,

The tax always goes up in April, at the moment it is £345

The main problem is that the cable frays inside the door as well and fouls the mechanism, there are 2 solutions, 1) change the cable/mechanism inside the door which entails removing the door card to get at the part, 2) cut the cable as close to the door as possible, switch off the power door on the dash, then you can open/close the door manually. Part available on eBay > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176509903974

kseal can block other parts of the heating system, always best to find where the leak is. If there is plenty of coolant in the rad, and you can see it moving when cold with the cap off, then it could be blocked in the heater matrix. You need to warm it up then check the small hoses, feed/return, that are connected to the matrix near the bulkhead, if they are both warm then the valve is working, and you have flow through the matrix, if not then the valve is not working or blocked. If you have flow through then the other cause could be the air flap control disc is faulty, a known fault, it is situated behind the dash low down, above and to the left of the parking brake, a disc from an Avensis control will fit, but both units need stripping down and the discs swopping

As said whole headlight, eBay is best, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146302066269

As said already, they are not required as the beam is flat plus there is no marker as to where to place them, but some people put a set in the glove box just in case they get stopped, you can get a set off ebay

Check on eBay for wheel arch trim clips or look in the link for the part number https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/ANH10W/35395/body/6151

From what I have read elsewhere, the units under the seat are for the tv and/or satnav, the CPU is behind the dash and the hard drive is built in to the head unit

the flashing car symbol is supposed to flash when ever the key is not in the ignition, it indicates that the immobiliser is working

Its for the front camera which has a split lens that shows a view left & right at junctions, it can be switched on/off via the switch on the right hand side of the steering wheel

It is only the facelift 3.0Litre from 2005 on wards that had a 5 speed, 4-speed automatic: U140E (pre-facelift 3.0) U140F (2.4 AWD/pre-facelift 3.0 AWD) U241E (2.4 FWD) P210 e-CVT (hybrid) 5-speed automatic (facelift 3.0): U151E (FWD) U151F (AWD)

Well done, not something I would fancy doing in this weather

If it looks the same then it more than likely is as the shell/chassis is the same it was just the style that changed depending on model, e.g. AS, MS, you can check in the link for part numbers amayama.com

You need a scanner with the JOBD protocol to read the fault codes, once you have a code you can google it, you will then have a very good idea on which part to replace, with out the code you will just be throwing money at it, a good scanner is the Ancel JP700

Tensioner should not need doing unless a very high mileage, if your rad has the plastic side panels they can crack due to age and heat but you can get radiators with metal sides on ebay, new hoses is agood idea, also towards the back there are 2 T joints that take the coolant into the heater matrix, they are made of plastic and can get brittle due to the heat/age some people, my self included, fit brass T pieces, 19mm, again on ebay, the link will be helpful for any part numbers you might need for other bits, once you have a part number you can use it as a cross reference or ask a toyota dealer to get it or even get it through the link amayama.com

As it is an inline 4 it is possible to do it in-situ, however it is advisable to have the head skimmed to ensure it has not warped so search for a place local to you that can do that

Yes, as long as you have a sensor pre & post the manifold cat

Get an Ancel JP700 scanner or any other make that has the JOBD protocol, a lot of people fit universal 02 sensors where they have to wire the pins to suit the vehicle, that could be why your wiring is a mess, look for a Denso or Blueprint or FebiBilstein sensor