Chris.ac

all 4 wheel speed sensors are fed in, it may be thinking you are in a skid condition. You really need to connect up diagnostics, techstream preferably, you can then monitor all 4 wheels and the steering angles. Try turning off the VSC (long hold the 'skid' button to the right of steering wheel, whilst parking brake is on with engine running, see if this makes a difference.

EPS.pdf Wiring diagram for powersteering,

those early alphards were based on the granvia, there is not really a canbus to be spoken of, so not much can be accessed via techstream beyond engine. any customisation would probably be accessible via the toyota head unit, or voodoo turning of the ignition key whilst holding a button or flicking a lightstalk.

the D refers to width and height, not diesel. 80D23L = Performance score (based on capacity and cranking(80) Width/height (173mm x 204mm) length (230mm) left terminal -ve (L) Try to get the performance score as high as possible, the D23L part are important to ensure it fits in the battery holder and clamp.

just FYI, the official fog from toyota is placed in the the plastic panel above where you fitted yours, so it was a matter of jut swapping out that quarter panel. Good job though, looks OEM, and well done on the installer using the already fitted loom, many don't and run cheap wire under the carpet. Did you installer fit official stalk with both fog positions or did they fit a switch?

20 series is electric power steering - no power steering fluid. has your vehicle had the speedo 'chipped' to convert to miles?, im just trying to think, but if some signal is not correct, and the EPS thinks you are moving, it may be making the steering heavier as intended. It should be really light when parking/stationary, like 1 finger light.

Well, I since learned and discussed elsewhere, the parking assist ecu is responsible and uses the GVIF (Blue USB like connector) to transmit to the headunit and receive back the necessary images. You can buy a GVIF to phono adaptor that will allow the images from the ECU to be displayed on any headunit that accepts a phono input. The original dashboard button on the right of steering wheel will continue to allow you to switch between images

Have you been trying to configure it without it plugged in to the actual car? If so, that's why. There is some precomms handshake that goes on that will partially identify the alphard, trying to preconfigure the software will just cause frustration.

Check your throttle housing. If its mechanical with a cable, you need a kit If its an electronic motor, you may get away with the cruise stalk.

You could, but probably cheaper to have bought a 30 series. I say this, because of you think you were extorted with insurance, imagine how much it would be worth that amount of modification.

For which year/model?

You can get an English pdf Manual from https://vaug.club/kb/reference/alphard-vellfire-20-english-user-manual-by-nik-dy-izwan-shah/ Give you a chance to get up to speed with the buttons etc.

On 20 series, the speed signal feed to the dials is seperate to the signals running to the other ecus such as cruise, traction control, headunit, abs, auto parking assist. Worst that will happen is the conversion box will fail, in which case you just remove it/replace it.

If you have a laptop capable of running virtual machines, try downloading the preset up tech stream from ih8mud site, no need to bother worth anti virus or fiddling with drivers. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-techstream-in-5-minutes.1034923/

20 series steering controls are 3 wires Gnd, and SW1 and SW2, using resistive differences to determine which keys are pressed. The microphone is situated near the dome lights, but this is unlikely to be connected up to the aftermarket unit - should be easy to do though, as it is just a condenser. Usually aftermarket, they will mount the mic on the steering wheel shroud. I will hazard that they did not connect the right side steering controls to the new headunit, so you only have the leftcontrols working.

In most probability, yes. Easiest way to check, it's rejoice the plastic kick panels on front footwell, look for the pink hoseing, if that has water in, the blockage is at the exit points hidden behind wheel arch trim. If no water, yet further up by popping off trim on a pillar (be careful of airbags) if that the is still clear, it's right in the drain pan up top. How in 2 front corners of the front sun roof, little conduits run to the middle moon roof. The rears are of course right at the back, you can check behind the rear side panels

its based on the Japanese emissions regulations. check your rear window, it might still have the japanese sticker on it that will either state 2000, 2002 or 2005 in its eco declaration. If you have 2000 or 2002, you are out of luck. 2005 is basically euro 4 spec in the eyes of DVLA, so ULEZ compliant

This thread

if it anything like other tablets/phones (which this is basically) the compass needs calibrating by moving and rotating the head unit in a figure of 8 - practically impossible of course.

ANH or ATH (hybrid)?

Totally missed this post, months old! Ath is your model, you need the 3 letters before that. DBA is mine.

You can see the standards changed significantly in 2005, which is why dvla etc seem to struggle to assign the correct euro standard for those facelift alphard 10 series

Hmm. I think their site changed, try. https://www.transportpolicy.net/standard/japan-light-duty-emissions/

Well, when deleting all keys, it should ask you to hold the fob you want to keep up to the start switch, the remaining stored keys get wiped. Then you can add new keys. What concerned me was the instructions I have only said it deleted everything. So I want to be sure before giving advice that may render you unable to start car at all.

Maybe hold off on my instructions. I need to check that its still valid.