Rojie

No it isn't. But my reading of those diagrams is the torque should be about 49Nm front and 56Nm rear. I cannot remember where I found the 80 ft/lbs; where did you find the 103Nm?

Looks very interesting. I have seen this book cover before. Are you completely satisfied with the download ? What was the download size ? No concerns about scams or phishing ?

I agree with Richard, about 21mpg. That 4 speed gearbox doesn't help matters. 9.7km/l is what the handbook says; so you are about right.

It would seem my 80 ft/lbs is way too high ! Twice as much ! Hopefully it is my memory that is incorrect ! I need to check my torque wrench setting !

Welcome to the Forum.

The Owners Manual from JPNZ does not have any torque settings for any nuts or bolts. Many of us have been waiting for a JPNZ Maintenance Manual to be published; but none has appeared so far. I know the importer, and even they don't know when it will be made available; if at all. These vehicles are quite old, my guess is JPNZ will focus on the Gen 2 model. I seem to recall, and it's worth checking, that the wheel nuts were 80 foot pound when I researched it for locking wheel nuts. That is a lot; I had to buy another torque wrench to achieve the setting ! I recently had some tyres fitted. I should have asked; but I doubt they knew the official figure ! I have no idea what the brake callipers require. What torque did it require to remove them ? I think, in the ether somewhere, there is a Russian manual ! Good luck finding it !

Thanks. Is the c rail removable from the van ? Roger

I now have a Gas Safety Certificate Do you ?

Hello Chris, Welcome to the Forum. How is the awning attached to the van ?

I have a brand new Toyota screen too (long story) and the Autoglass Fitter recommended Bosch SP. They work great.

The Owners Handbook mentions that 5W-20 is the best option for full economy

Does the digital tuner have an RCA analogue output ? If so, Yes. If not, No.

Would it surprise you to know that Churchill is part of the Direct Line Group of companies !

I thought it would be less. Thanks for letting us all know.

Hello Philip, Welcome to the Forum. Members are invited to recommend suitable garages. There is a section where those are listed. On your home page, top left, click on Forums and scroll down. I hope you find what you are looking for.

350 to 400 should be your target. More for a camper. Try not to use internet quoting, and make a few phone calls.

Load shift. The quicker, and more suddenly, you accelerate the more loading shifts (load transfer) to the rear axle/wheels. As the vehicle is a fixed weight, less loading will be on the front axles, causing less adhesion. Is the rear end suspension in prime condition ? Similarly, if your front suspension is less than optimal that will increase the tendency to 'tramp', as Paul described. You should get your suspension checked, when is your next MOT ? The quick, easy and inexpensive solution is to 'take' it easy.

Good to know. What engine size does your Suzuki have ? As it is the torque of the engine that is the measure of its ability to 'turn' a load 1 foot, the more torque the engine produces the less the affect the air con will have. My guess is beyond a certain torque it will make no difference. What is that figure ? No idea, and it will depend on many of the vehicles characteristics. However, I would expect if you are running on Propane the air con will have quite an affect due to its much low efficiency.

Many fellow Alpharders are using their converted Alphards as campervans, and most of those vans will be carrying gas. I noticed in my Insurance Documents that my insurance company requires my vehicle, as I have one gas bottle, to have the installation certified by a Registered Gas Safety Engineer. This certificate is not required by Law, but is by my insurer. The Certificate is not a Habitation Certificate, which is required by Law for Motorhomes and Caravans. Habitation Certificates are not required for Campervans. In doing some research I came across the information in the link. There are many other similar articles. I thought I would start a Topic. My camper is a stealth version so I do not want (or need as it happens) LPG stickers in plain sight 'everywhere' ! I found it a very interesting article, especially the guidance on how to find a local qualified Registered Gas Safety engineer. In my view my installation, although not fitted by a registered engineer, meets the physical requirements. However, I will be calling my local 'Gas Man' tomorrow to get the certificate before the season starts. In the meantime ? There is no gas bottle in my van ! The gas tight cabinet, the strap, and the carbon monoxide sensor, are all there. But no gas bottle. Perhaps any owners carrying gas should be checking the small print in their Insurance Policy Documents. https://vandercampadventures.com/campervan-gas-regulations-2022/#:~:text=There are no requirements for,involved in a road accident.

For those that do intend to (or already do) tow there is always the route that Albert (Nick Fisher) took. 160 pounds is hardly beer money, but is a one time cost.

Presumably, you mean affect on MPG ?

Interesting. Without wishing to be contentious, my interpretation of the modal verbs shall and should is the opposite of yours Richard. Imho, shall is a future intention, should is in the now timeframe. Less controversially, I have read, on this Forum, that it is OK to tow with and Alphard, but have also read that it is not ! Clearly, you have being trying to understand UK Law in this regard, if that is possible ! Getting a Yes/No answer from any Government Department is never easy, if indeed a ever a possibility. Towing involves a trailer of some sort, i.e. one wheel or more on the ground. Accordingly, I believe, using a tow bar to support a bicycle rack or a platform frame is, ihmo, entirely legal. I await other members opinions on this topic with interest. ps. I don't have a tow bar, so no towing or bike racks for me. Finally, thank you Richard for trying to clarify towing with an Alphard.

I would be very interested to know where you buy the struts, when/if you do. I lubricated mine today, great improvement but still a slight juddering. And the cost of them. If you choose to fit them yourself, safely, you will need to prop the tailgate as they are heavy !

Hello Tony, Welcome to the Forum.

Before renewing your tailgate struts ensure you order the correct one. Obvious, I know, but there are several types. They are identified by quite a large letter on the body of the strut. I have not changed mine yet, as it could be the motor, and I am not keen to replace that as my conversion makes it rather awkward !