Rojie

Hello Ace, Welcome to the Forum. Search this Forum. There ia a very detailed list (probably in the Maintenance and service section) authored, I believe, by Chric.ac

Motorised type ? Are you referring to the tail gate being motorised, or the soft locking mechanism. From your description, I am assuming the issue is with the soft locking.

I have an interest, but my main reasons for my questions were for the benefit of members. If you were you closer to me, I would visit. What size is it when fully stowed ?

Thanks Richard and Paul. This is quite a find as many members are interested in a Workshop Manual. I'll get one.

I know of a case in the UK where lack of oil changes and oil filter changes caused the demise of a V6 engine. After ONLY two months of ownership, in UK Law, you would have a claim against the seller if they were a business ! Perhaps Canadian Law offers similar redress.

Metals shards in engine oil. How was the engine previously ? Shards, so could be piston rings (lack of oil), big ends (lack of oil, or high mileage (which yours isn't) main bearings (high mileage, oil starvation, unlikely). Rings would be my guess. Big end failure is normally preceded by a 'knocking' sound. Main bearing failure is normally preceded by a 'rumble' sound. So, I guess, you were advised that an engine rebuild was not an economical solution

I am very sorry to hear of your experience. Had you been using engine braking a lot. Clearly you wouldn't be whilst driving uphill. So I am assuming that you suspect that prior engine braking was the cause. Had you been ensuring correct engine oil levels and renewing the engine oil after reasonable periods. I can't speak for BC, but even in the UK finding a suitable mechanic can be an issue.

No it isn't. But my reading of those diagrams is the torque should be about 49Nm front and 56Nm rear. I cannot remember where I found the 80 ft/lbs; where did you find the 103Nm?

Looks very interesting. I have seen this book cover before. Are you completely satisfied with the download ? What was the download size ? No concerns about scams or phishing ?

I agree with Richard, about 21mpg. That 4 speed gearbox doesn't help matters. 9.7km/l is what the handbook says; so you are about right.

It would seem my 80 ft/lbs is way too high ! Twice as much ! Hopefully it is my memory that is incorrect ! I need to check my torque wrench setting !

Welcome to the Forum.

The Owners Manual from JPNZ does not have any torque settings for any nuts or bolts. Many of us have been waiting for a JPNZ Maintenance Manual to be published; but none has appeared so far. I know the importer, and even they don't know when it will be made available; if at all. These vehicles are quite old, my guess is JPNZ will focus on the Gen 2 model. I seem to recall, and it's worth checking, that the wheel nuts were 80 foot pound when I researched it for locking wheel nuts. That is a lot; I had to buy another torque wrench to achieve the setting ! I recently had some tyres fitted. I should have asked; but I doubt they knew the official figure ! I have no idea what the brake callipers require. What torque did it require to remove them ? I think, in the ether somewhere, there is a Russian manual ! Good luck finding it !

Thanks. Is the c rail removable from the van ? Roger

I now have a Gas Safety Certificate Do you ?

Hello Chris, Welcome to the Forum. How is the awning attached to the van ?

I have a brand new Toyota screen too (long story) and the Autoglass Fitter recommended Bosch SP. They work great.

The Owners Handbook mentions that 5W-20 is the best option for full economy

Does the digital tuner have an RCA analogue output ? If so, Yes. If not, No.

Would it surprise you to know that Churchill is part of the Direct Line Group of companies !

I thought it would be less. Thanks for letting us all know.

Hello Philip, Welcome to the Forum. Members are invited to recommend suitable garages. There is a section where those are listed. On your home page, top left, click on Forums and scroll down. I hope you find what you are looking for.

350 to 400 should be your target. More for a camper. Try not to use internet quoting, and make a few phone calls.

Load shift. The quicker, and more suddenly, you accelerate the more loading shifts (load transfer) to the rear axle/wheels. As the vehicle is a fixed weight, less loading will be on the front axles, causing less adhesion. Is the rear end suspension in prime condition ? Similarly, if your front suspension is less than optimal that will increase the tendency to 'tramp', as Paul described. You should get your suspension checked, when is your next MOT ? The quick, easy and inexpensive solution is to 'take' it easy.

Good to know. What engine size does your Suzuki have ? As it is the torque of the engine that is the measure of its ability to 'turn' a load 1 foot, the more torque the engine produces the less the affect the air con will have. My guess is beyond a certain torque it will make no difference. What is that figure ? No idea, and it will depend on many of the vehicles characteristics. However, I would expect if you are running on Propane the air con will have quite an affect due to its much low efficiency.