Rojie

Arbitrary, that's all. Not many people fill the tank to the brim. My point is that running the tank to quarter full and then refilling is a good method to use. Any arbitrary level will do, but the lower you get to an empty tank the more chance of any 'muck' that has settled at the bottom of the tank being disturbed. There are fuel filters to deal with this issue, but they can be blocked.

So it does, but I think it is a name change. Try 01895 439090 Exmotors@hotmail.com. Ask for Naeem. If he is not there it may be a different business, otherwise he should be able to help. I have used Japanese MPV, but not Exmotors. Exmotors has a very similar address, and, I believe, the mechanics were on the same plot. Worth a try

Whatever vehicle you have, it is never a good idea to run the tank dry. To be safe, fill to three quarter full, run down to quarter full and top up to three quarters. Unless doing the NC500, half a tank should be plenty, even between isolated petrol stations.

Hello Karsten, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Richard, Having read your link, the process seems to be proactive, including a vehicle inspection at the exporting docks. Are you able o confirm this procedure can be competed retrospectively, without the vehicle inspection at source? Have you followed this procedure yourself, successfully ?

You could speak with Naeem at Japanese MPV Specialists, in Uxbridge. He is an importer and, I feel sure, will have someone nearby to perform preparatory work before sale.

This is a interesting one. I would go V6, but only in White, Grey or Black, in that order; personal preference. Gold will be harder to sell and for less value. New Acre is known to this Forum, and is one of the better suppliers. However, that vehicle is obviously older, and will be more difficult to sell in 4 years time, especially as it will not be ULEZ compliant. As stated above, London is not the only city implementing emission control. What is Southampton / Portsmouth planning ? The 07 at 88k is not low mileage and, arguably, should have had the cam belt changed. No mention of that in the 'service history'. I don't know of that sales outlet, but they appear to specialise in JDM imports; though not only Alphards, Vellfires or Toyotas. I have a fully loaded MZ G edition. A joy to drive but lots of gizmos to worry about. Me, I would pass on both and look for a 2008 Gen 2 facelift (or later), in the colours above. Good Luck whatever you decide.

James raises a very good point. ULEZ compliance ? 04 will not be compliant, 07 will be.

No need to do that.

Hello Lucasz, Welcome to the Forum.

Click on the Picasso 'emblem' and click message.

Hello Matty, You don't give us the key data. What are the mileages ? What about service history ? Both have belt driven camshafts. The 5 speed will have, or can have, a retro fitted cruise if needed very cheaply. The four speed cannot without considerable expense. I s the condition of the leather comparable ? Whatever you decide, good luck and happy motoring. What mpg are you expecting from the 4 speed during local driving ?

I don't think DVLA behave that way. They do record the date of manufacture as the date first registered in Japan; not quite the same thing. Have you tried Carvx, to see if that yields better information. I think it is the same in the UK. The DVLA do not know, or care, when the vehicle was made; only when it was first registered. Do you mean Gen 1 or Gen 1 facelift ?

That's him. So glad to hear his business is growing

Hello Nancy, Welcome to the Forum. There is a For Sale section in this Forum. You are welcome to put an advert there. There is no charge, but you must comply with the Rules for Selling. There is also a section for recommended suppliers / garages / maintenance. Perhaps you would consider adding their name etc, in that section. Are they in Bodmin, as there is a Toyota Trained Technician there ?

Thank you these photos. They look identical to the Gen 1 facelift, but could be dimensionally different. I doubt that they are different. However, it has been established that the strut units themselves are different, even the attachment parts are not. I await a confirmation and quote from Amayama. The Amayama parts are OEM assembly and a much more sensible cost, unsurprisingly, than the Toyota Direct ones. It may be the hinges, or the motor, that are causing the 'juddering'.. Like many owners, the issue annoys me, but does not actually need attention.

Hello Adrian, Welcome to the Forum. Please complete the details in your profile. It helps us help you if we know what vehicle you have ! Age and type.

On the 4WD versions it is quite important to ensure all wheels and tyres are the same size and similar wear.

Hello Phil, Welcome to the Forum. There are no silly questions on this Forum, especially from new member owners. We were all new owners and members once.

From memory I paid £300, about 3 years ago; so no doubt higher now. However, it should be easy enough to find out the exact cost from AA or RAC. I think you may misunderstand about the battery. No matter how good the battery, including brand new, if it is disconnected long enough to replace it the windows will almost certainly need resetting. I am not suggesting parasitic drain or any other issues as the cause for a new battery. For the cost of a new battery the vendor should replace it before you take delivery. How long has the current owner owned it ? Many owners do not replace batteries early enough before they reach end of life. Maybe that is the case. Has it been standing unused for a while, as there will be battery drain due to current drain from any equipment not wired through the ignition. Are you considering a private purchase, or one from a business ? Regarding the AA / RAC being unfamiliar with Alphards. Most mechanics are, including official Toyota dealers. I think the AA / RAC is a far lower risk than someone who claims to be an Alphard expert. Finally, if the vehicle has a very recent MOT that maybe reassurance enough for you. Again, If you are a serious Buyer, the vendor should agree to a brand new MOT certificate as part of the sales contract prior to payment. If you guarantee to cover the cost of the new MOT (upfront, and not any remedial work)) what does (s)he have to loose? Is it a Gen 1,pre late 2005, or a Gen 1 facelift, late 2005 to 2008 ? There is quite a difference, especially with the V6 model Good Luck, whatever you decide to do.

Good thinking. Thank you.

Picasso will do the comparison of the part numbers. Thank you Alex for the rescue.

I had the AA, or RAC, perform a Vehicle Inspection on my potential purchase as I was somewhat distant from the vendor. Money very well spent, imho. The inspection was very thorough; with a clear and detailed pro forma written report. The inspection included OBD, a road test, under vehicle inspection; and an engine bay and fluids check. It wasn't cheap, but worth every penny. The OBD picked up rear axle issues, when the bushes had been replaced. Cause was a disconnected connector ! Fixed in a jiffy, then all clear. I gained considerable reassurance from the report. Had there been other issues I could have walked away with my deposit returned; or negotiated a lower price. So if you make an offer, make sure it is subject to Inspection. Had the vendor declined an inspection I would have walked away. The cost is, after all, quite a small investment when compared to the cost of the vehicle. ps. After the battery is replaced the windows will need to be reset (maybe the moon roof too). If the vendor does know how to do that beware. Finally, get the registration and check the MOT history on DVLA.

The link worked for me just now. A very neat installation. Only other observation is the rear of the van is sitting quite low. It may need stronger rear springs, but that would hinder entry and exit (for someone of my years at least).

Yes. The fuse box is behind the glovebox, which needs to be removed (simple to do). It is a real pig to get to. You may be lucky to even see it as it is buried underneath an array of cables. The TAIL fuse is 10 amp, and is in the passenger side footwell. Position 13. I have concerns that your electrician was looking in the correct fuse box, let alone checking any or all of the them. If you are nimble, have good eyesight, and a mirror; you may be able to do it yourself. I believe the fuses are micro size. Get one from your local Toyota dealer BEFORE you start.